Motor Mount Extruder

by paenian, published

Motor Mount Extruder by paenian May 5, 2014
4 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps



Motor Mount Extruder by paenian is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

22610Views 4204Downloads Found in 3D Printer Extruders


An extremely versatile direct-drive extruder for a nema 17 motor.

It can be mounted as a bowden extruder (clamp included) or directly to a Wade-compatible or i3 x carriage.

Uses m3 hardware for motor mounting and clamp, and can use either a 623 or 625 bearing - both versions are uploaded.

Uses an mk7 drive gear, I got mine here: http://twelvepro.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=61&product_id=51

Allows full access to the idler teeth, even while printing - with tension adjust exposed as well.

The clamps are meant for use on a Graber i3 printer - so they use 6-32 English hardware. I prefer to use the clamp to mount the extruder, rather than the extruder with the i3 mount built in.

The bowden mounts are meant for use with the E3d hotend - their bowden tube pushfits have been drilled out, so the tube can pass all the way through - there is a hole for the tube to enter the extruder, and make sure that your filament is 100% guided.

WHY another extruder?
1) it fits on a motor
2) it's modular - can adapt to wade or i3 mounts, bowden or wade
3) Minimal part count
4) Easy access to drive gear, you can even clean while printing!
5) Fully guided filament path
6) Super clamping power!
7) Tiny.


Print WITHOUT support - all necessary supports are built-in with onionskin, and all cylinders are capped for easy printing.

I usually use a .2mm height; the onionskin will work fine up to .3mm layer heights, but beyond that you might need to edit the scad.

PARTS - needed for every version
3 6mm or 8mm m3 socket cap screws
1 20mm m3 screw
1 m3 nut

PARTS - m3 idler
1 14mm m3 screw
1 m3 nut
1 623zz bearing

Parts - m5 idler
1 14mm m5 screw
1 m5 nut
1 625zz bearing

Parts - groovemount
2 6mm or 8mm m3 screws
2 m3 nuts

More from 3D Printer Extruders

view more

All Apps

3D Print your file with 3D Hubs, the world’s largest online marketplace for 3D printing services.

App Info Launch App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App
Comments deleted.

Will a 13 mm diameter ball bearing work for these designs? All i have on hand.

Has anyone had luck using 3mm filament with this?

I drilled it out for 3mm, and it seems like it will work fine just testing with a scrap piece of filament. Great design, and thanks for all the different iterations!

i have 2 questions : where i can find the model of your extruder (it's for prusa i3 right? ) and where i can find the frame ? tx

I printed this file : 1.75_30mmi3_groovemount_m3idler, but i get some things wrong because of my hardware..
I have an mk8 drive gear, can you tell me which variables we need to change in the openscad to best suit this setup:

623zz bearing (in the previous file, the round place to fit the bearing
is the correct one but the nut in the back it's for the 625);

  • mk8 drive gear, which has a 7mm "primitive" diameter, and outer diameter of 9 mm;
  • 30mm i3 xcarriage mount;
  • 1.75 filament;
    is it ok to change the thickness of the part that attach to the motor
    to 4mm? because i only have M3 L10mm screw's and they not thighten the
    Thank's a lot, this design is very neat and very simple, i was looking for something like this :)
    Best Wishes!

i've got no idea how to use openscad. is there a way to get this to work with the standard 30mm i3 x carriage without slitting my wrists in the meantime?
i'm dying to upgrade the extruder on mine as i can't seem to get consistent feed with whats on there now. just seems everyone is using a hobbed bolt and i'm here in the dark ages using my mk7.
Any help appreciated

Just uploaded 1.75_30mmi3_groovemount_m3idler.stl and 1.75_30mmi3_groovemount_m5idler.stl - both of those should work fine with the Prusa i3.
In the scad, I made i3 another option - because it needs m3 bolts as well as different hole separation.
Let me know if it works!

Working like a charm.
thanks so much.

trying one out now.
you sir are a gentleman and a squire!

scratch that, started air printing 5 minutes ago. seems the 625 bearing can't get close enough to the mk7 hobbed gear, there's a gap of about 1mm even when it's fully tightened.

The filament is 1.75mm thick - a gap of 1mm is significantly smaller than that. I'd try lowering the tension a bit - and look at the filament as it comes out. It should be round, with small notches in one side. If it's D-shaped, you're deforming the filament in the extruder - which will cause it to jam.
If you're doing PLA, you might want to put a fan in front of the extruder - PLA softens at low temp, motor heat + too much tension might be causing it to deform as well.

no PLA. just ABS, tglase, nylon and polycarb. i've never tried PLA
i've fixed the issue by slotting the motor mount holes and moving the extruder wheel closer to the bearing.
the cutout/groove in my mk7 is quite deep. which may account for why the filament slides through easily even under max tension.
printing flexible filament now like a boss, so once again thankyou for the design :)

Please let me know if I'm wrong, but I think the variable for the hole separation for the i3_mount doesn't work.
I need 30mm between holes, and I always get 47.5mm
Thanks! And great job!

Also, what screws does the i3 use for mounting? M4?

The i3 X-Carriage uses M3 screws for mounting, separated either 24 or 30mm (customizable by the user).

The Graber x-carriage has two sets of screws to mount on... I chose the wider ones. I'll make a proper fix tonight,
but for now you can edit the .scad - if you run down to the i3_mount module, make "bolt_width = 30" instead of 47.5. I do need to do a little more cleanup on the global vs. local variables, sorry.
You should also comment out the two cylinders after "//hollows for other screws on carriage" - those are cutouts to miss the screws you'll be using.
Please let me know about motor clearance (pics would be great!) - I used the extruder_mount to attach my non-bowden, clamping the motor in place because the back of the motor hits the sides of the graber i3.

These are the changes I've made to the module i3_mount:
bolt_width = 30;//47.5;
upper_hole_sep = 0;

Do you have a wades m3 idler version?

Just uploaded - sorry I missed it the first time. Let me know if it works for you!