PortaBerry Pi (Handheld Raspberry Pi Emulator)

by 3Derp May 6, 2014
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Please, can you pass me an image of the system?

just do a search for retro pi, and download/build, thats the system


Raspberry Pi 4 is out. I would love to give this an up-to-date make over in solidworks or other tool.


Do you have the source files for this? I would love it get it working with the Pi 7" Touchscreen. I have solidworks.

Where can I get the small screen? Is there anything extra required besides that and screws and a pi?

small screen is removed from its case, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CFLMNC/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 there is a full list in the BOM list in thing details

Thanks! I will do this.

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Shame that this was designed for the Pi and not Pi2 ! I love the design, a lot more than the updated version. I'm guessing the chances of it being updated are zero?

Has anyone in the U.S. tried taking one of these on a plane? I know the FAA and TSA have rules about what batteries and battery operated devices can be brought on board and I'm curious if yo were allowed to bring this.

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Could you explain in detail how you modified the charger and battery so that they were compatible? I can't find any good information on this here, in the step-by-step guide, or in the Portaberry Ultra docs. I'm a newbie to the maker scene so I'm totally lost.

I get wire stripping and splicing and all that, but what connector exactly did you add to the charger?

Has anyone done this with a 5" HDMI screen instead?

Ideally this would be done with:
a) a 5" HDMI screen which will allow taking advantage of the Pi's new graphics acceleration capabilities
b) use a Raspberry Pi3 B for the increased performance it gives and makes things like N64, Playstation, and more modern emulations actually work reasonably well.
c) Many would like a D-Pad in addition to the analog controller.

I guess a slight re-spin with a little larger size might be able to do this. This design is soooo close to me though, it seems like it just needs a few tweaks.

I've been wondering about this exact idea. The biggest hurdle I see is the current setup doesn't have an adequate control scheme for N64 games. By my count you need to recreate an N64 controller, or a game cube controller which can mange N64 games in emulation on the Wii. You need a primary thumb-stick, a D-Pad, and additionally a C directional controller (this was the 4 yellow buttons on the N64 controller or the yellow thumb-stick on GameCube) the L and R shoulder buttons, the z trigger button, and an A and B button. After doing some experiments I think the quickest change to this configuration would be a 3rd trigger button on the left, a D Pad on the left and a second thumb-stick on the right.

It wont let me see the bill of materials under the instructions section can someone send me the list or put a link up that works

I just added a link to the bill of material in the summary section. Try it out and let me know if it works.

I just added a link to the bill of material in the summary section. Try it out and let me know if it works.

I just added a link to the bill of material in the summary section. Try it out and let me know if it works.

I just added a link to the bill of material in the summary section. Try it out and let me know if it works.

I just added a link to the bill of material in the summary section. Try it out and let me know if it works.

I just added a link to the bill of material in the summary section. Try it out and let me know if it works.

I just added a link to the bill of material in the summary section. Try it out and let me know if it works.

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Is it possible to make this w/out the speakers? will not adding speakers break it?

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how do u connect the screen to the raspberry i cant understand

Great build! Almost done here. Looks like with the current stl's that the main power slide witch is bigger than the others for sound and display. I will measure and keep looking but if you have a link that would be great!

Can you play Battletoads with it?

I'm having trouble getting the teensy to communicate with the raspberry pi, I have the example code for the joystick and the teensy is defined as a serial/keyboard/mouse/joystick please help! Thanks

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Would a Raspberry Pi 2 work instead of the Model B?

probably, might be a tighter fit, and the screw holes need to be drilled in different places but it should.

I bought the screen that was on the bill of matrials twice and both of the ones i got did not work. Is it some thing im doing or the screen it self

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This looks to be a very clean build. I am making a different model currently. I am going to try yours out next. What kind of filament did you use?

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only thing i noticed was missing from the materials list is the 3.5mm female jack for the headphones.
looks like the one he used. $4.64 amazon prime shipping.

sketch for teensey
/ Complete USB Joystick Example
Teensy becomes a USB joystick with 16 or 32 buttons and 6 axis input
You must select Joystick from the "Tools > USB Type" menu
Pushbuttons should be connected between the digital pins and ground.
Potentiometers should be connected to analog inputs 0 to 5.
This example code is in the public domain.
// Configure the number of buttons. Be careful not
// to use a pin for both a digital button and analog
// axis. The pullup resistor will interfere with
// the analog voltage.
const int numButtons = 16; // 16 for Teensy, 32 for Teensy++
void setup() {
// you can print to the serial monitor while the joystick is active!

// configure the joystick to manual send mode. This gives precise
// control over when the computer receives updates, but it does
// require you to manually call Joystick.send_now().
for (int i=0; i<numButtons; i++) {
pinMode(i, INPUT_PULLUP);

byte allButtons[numButtons];
byte prevButtons[numButtons];
int angle=0;
void loop() {
// read 6 analog inputs and use them for the joystick axis

// read digital pins and use them for the buttons
for (int i=0; i<numButtons; i++) {
if (digitalRead(i)) {
// when a pin reads high, the button is not pressed
// the pullup resistor creates the "on" signal
allButtons[i] = 0;
} else {
// when a pin reads low, the button is connecting to ground.
allButtons[i] = 1;
Joystick.button(i + 1, allButtons[i]);
// make the hat switch automatically move in a circle

// Because setup configured the Joystick manual send,
// the computer does not see any of the changes yet.
// This send_now() transmits everything all at once.

// check to see if any button changed since last time
boolean anyChange = false;
for (int i=0; i<numButtons; i++) {
if (allButtons[i] != prevButtons[i]) anyChange = true;
prevButtons[i] = allButtons[i];
// if any button changed, print them to the serial monitor

// a brief delay, so this runs "only" 200 times per second

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Hey i have tried to make one of these and have not been successful can you make one for me and i will pay you for it. Please

We need one with a D-Pad AND a joystick!

But apparetly that doesnt exist...and I want a portable N64 machine..

might be easier for you to set this up and use one of the free usb port on the pi to install an adaptoid for the controller because of the amount and layout of controller buttons. im only answering the question without actually checking to see if this is doable (drivers for adaptoid compatible with pi?) but if it works I think it would allow for better gameplay with n64 roms, that controller has kind of a bulky layout.

I've startet to Build this thing. Thanks vor development!

Could you please tell me wich Sketch you use on the Teensy?

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Not sure what's up with the battery clips, but there's no way they're fitting into the battery well and holding the cover in place. An assembly of the STLs reveals the clips are several millimeters off the holes they align to or there's something else going on that I can't determine. Everything else seems in order.

I've been hacking away at this thing for awhile, but the configuration never works properly. 1) In emulationstation, it senses the teensy as a controller when it says hold down a button, but after that it does nothing. 2) When I do the retroarch.cfg editing command given in the guide, it keeps saying "Joyhat moved : Hat0, direction (some direction, usually up but sometimes right, down, and left.)" Please help.

NOTE: in the instructions it says to go to a file in /.emulationstation

This has been moved to /etc/emulationstation/es_systems.cfg

other changes listed here: http://blog.petrockblock.com/2014/07/01/major-update-for-retropie/

How do u recharge the battery ?

you need to buy a charger, takes the battery out, than plug the charger into the battery, than wait a few hours, push the small arm on the connector , than slide them out of each other.

How would i go about adding a rotary angle sensor to the amp system to adjust the sound? any help will be appreciated

I don't access to a 3d printer, so i am going to attempt to make the case out of wood. Do you have any suggestions or tips that could help me. Thanks

So how much of a difference would it be to fit this with a pi2? enough room or would it need some redesigning? im thinking about trying to make one for n64 emulation, maybe at the 2 extra buttons too

Im trying the same thing right now but i recomend checking to see if Ur composite video out works!!

Could you hack a SNES controller and use the D-pad instead of a joystick, or would it mess with the wiring and dimensions?

Also, I cannot find the 4.5'' tft display you linked on your google sheet anywhere online.

Are you sure about the display? I just copied the link in the bill of material and it took me right to the product? Also to answer your earlier question, yes, you most likely could adapt a d-pad into the design. One really good place to look for inspiration would be the PiGRRL design from Adafruit. It incorporates a SNES controller into the case by separating the PCB into d-pad, action buttons, and start/select. You could potentially use their technique for all the buttons in the Portaberry design.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but both sources in your google sheet take me to a 4.3'' tft car display screen.

Ah ok I see the confusion now. That car display is the screen. You have to take apart the plastic case and remove the tft display inside. Its a pretty easy procedure. Sorry for the confusion :P

can you make one for me as i have tried to make one but have not been successful i will pay for it

Sorry to bother you again, but you had to use the UBEC to give power to the Pi at 5 Volts while your battery pack directly powered the display? I'm still trying to find the best battery/charger combo that will power both the Pi and Display.

Sorry about the late response. Your correct, the UBEC and display are wired in parallel to the main battery power thus supplying 9V to each. The display is speced for 12V but runs fairly well on as low as 6V (with an efficiency drop). The UBEC is supplying 5V regulated power to the raspberry pi.

Thanks a lot! (Did you mean wired in parallel?)

Haha yes, yes it did. Fixed the comment.

It looks like you changed out the plug on the battery? What is the plug that you used? Does the charger you listed in the comments also have this plug or did you have to modify it (or make an adapter for it) as well? Thanks!

I wired a size M (5.5mm) coaxial plug to the battery and the same sized jack into the case. For the charger I made an adapter cable with a separate coaxial jack. Hope that helps.

About how long does the battery last?

About 2 or 3 hours. Sorry I never got exact data on that but its pretty decent.

How do you load games on this unit after it is all set up? It seems that the SD slot is internal, and the case would have to be taken apart to load anything new.

Sadly that is exactly what has to be done. It's a bit of a design flaw. Although, I believe it would be possible to add one of those tiny wifi adapters and connect to the Pi wirelessly.

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anyone have an estimate on how long this might roughly take to print on a replicator 2? I have access to a printer but only in 3 hour time slots so I am going to have to divide this up if needed. And will there ever possibly be a revision with a b+ / rpi2?

On a replicator I bet the largest pieces would take about 4-5 hours. Total printing for all parts was about 12-15 hours on my Prusa i3. I also hope to revise this for the B+/Pi2 in the future, if/when I do I'm also hoping to make some larger scale improvements to the battery and controls since I heard that the Pi2 can emulate N64 games O_o

yes it can! and pretty well! search for floob on youtube, he has done a lot of videos testing some games. but yeah im kinda designing my own right now with the 7" screen from adafruit, and 2 extra buttons on the front right so it would be a n64 controller layout. i just dont think I can create the 3d file that is accurate enough to work.

That's awesome that your designing your own! I hope to see it someday. In case price is a concern I know 7" tft displays are sold on amazon for backup cameras, although they would be composite versus the potential for HDMI from the Adafruit displays. If CAD software is your concern give 123D a try, it seems to be what everyone is using now. I've tried it a bit myself and its not bad for a free program.

Thanks im actually kinda getting the hang of 123d. been years since i used 3ds max. might give some more robust programs a try. also, i sent you my vector files in a message in case you wanted to use them if you ever began to make a version of this for the pi2. let me know if you have any questions.

Do you have any plans on making this work with the new Pi2?

To be honest I really should. I'm currently working on a miniature version of this using the much small Raspberry pi A+. Having just seen the Pi2 I'm super impressed. They've made some great changes that would help reduce the Pi2's footprint to the point that it may be easier to fit in this project than the model B was. The only necessary change would be the mounting hole footprint included on the battery well. once I can get a Pi2 on order I may attempt this upgrade.

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Just to be clear, your BOM lists that we need 8 sets of the 12 or 15 colorful, tactile buttons, and I'm assuming that it actually means 8.

Haha ya just eight individual buttons.

I want to make one of these, but I notice that you say we shouldn't try and duplicate what was made for reasons that aren't explained. What exactly should I be on the watch-out for (I'm very VERY green at making things, and while I know that this may be a bit over the top for a first craft, I really really want one :P) I have someone who can help with making the pi work, but are there any major issues to avoid with the physical parts?
Also, I'd love to make this using a D-Pad in place of the analog stick (call me old fashioned, but I really think D-Pads suit the "retro" part a helluva lot more). Do you have any tips on this subject, or would you just suggest sticking with the analog?

I honestly misspoke when I said don't try to duplicate. I really meant that the design had A LOT that could be improved upon. The component selection and wiring layout was far from perfect. The pictures/files/BOM I uploaded were meant to be used as a guide. Honestly I see nothing wrong with using my original files (do check the remix section though, its got some great improvements), however, when it comes to assembly/wiring what I included should be considered a guideline. Your going to have to do a little improvising when it comes to the internals. If you have any questions concerning the build feel free to ask, also check through the comments, there's a lot of good discussion there.

It occurs to me that you could probably get away with using a single cell LiPoly battery and a 5V boost regulator such as Adafruit part 2030. You'd have to modify the display to run off 5V by opening it up and disabling its internal switching regulator. If you did that and added a simple USB powered internal battery charger you'd eliminate the need to remove the batteries and charge them externally.

On further research, the adafruit part 1565 is a lipoly battery, charger, and 5V boost regulator all in one, so you could probably just use that for a battery solution instead. I'm going to redesign this project to use one of those.

Did you get this part? I was wondering the same thing, as I am starting to order parts to try and build this unit with a student of mine.

From further experimenting, I can say that the power block part (adafruit part 1565) does not work well. The voltage output is noisy and badly regulated, and you can't charge and play games at the same time. It also spontaneously shuts itself off if you draw more current than it expects a cell phone charger to draw. I replaced it with a 2500 mAh single cell Lipo and a Powerboost 500 from Adafruit which works much better.

Yes, I currently have an Adafruit 1565 battery powering a Raspberry Pi B, with a 4.5" TFT display from Amazon (part B005CFLMNC) running directly off the 5V taken off the GPIO header on the Pi. It all seems to work, although I haven't actually played any games on it. I'm still redrawing the case to fit the different parts I'm using.

The charge-in-case functionality would definitely help a lot. A similar circuit could be implemented for the existing battery and its accompanying charger. Basically just wire the positive lead of the battery to the pole of a SPDT switch. One throw of the switch connects the battery to the circuit (On), the other (Off/charge) connects the positive lead to a connector on the case into which a charger can be plugged. GND for (On) and (Off/charge) would be connected to the negative lead of the battery. Using the Adafruit components has the advantage of working with parts purposefully designed for the job vs having to hack something together. The voltage supply was an issue that bothered me throughout this project. I really didn't want to go with a chunky 9V pack (older design called for a HUGE 12V pack O_o) however, I didn't trust myself to successfully convert the display over to 5V. Another issue is the possibility of differently sourced displays having different circuitry making the modification confusing. During tests I found that the standard 12V circuitry actually worked pretty well down to 7-8V thus the display in this project is powered directly from the 9V supply with little trouble. If you do have luck with the voltage conversion on the display I would like to hear about it because its something I am interested in trying on future projects.

The 4.3 Inch LCD TFT Rearview Monitor screen that I just bought from Amazon (part B005CFLMNC) works directly off 5V without modification. The switching circuit inside it is regulating down to 3.3V, and doesn't seem to mind running directly off the 5V output of the power brick I'm using rather than a 9V battery. I do suspect that the input inductor on the switcher is having to run more current than originally intended (over half an amp at 5V versus about 270mA at 12V) so there might be some heat issues and reduced lifespan eventually.

A very impressive project!

This looks like a ball to build, thanks for sharing, also note the great adaptability of this housing for use in remote control devices ran with the Pi....

Wow, I am currently trying to do this same thing...and then I went to school today and couldn't think of what to do in CAD, then came here to browse for ideas...then, of course, this was on the main screen...

Can you add a full youtube video on how to do this

Sadly no. That clumsy 50 second demo video I linked is about the extent of my video making ability.

Your headphone jack is missing from your bill of materials. Can you say which one you used?

Where does the ground for the joystick go? I can't make it out from the pictures.

Joystick GND is chained together with the button GNDs to the ground PIN on the Teensy. There should be a schematic for the controls uploaded.

Hi , I am wondering in retro pi witch emulators did you get to work with the joy stick? I could not find an emulator in retro pi that supports the joystick. Could you please help me I have built the whole thing and now I con not get the software side of things working! I have got the joystick and buttons working in the front-end but not in the emulators please help!(I am a windows software developer so I lack Linux knowledge ).

I suggest, since this is a software and not a hardware issue, that you go to the Retropie forums at http://blog.petrockblock.com/retropie/ and work on it with folks there.

Did you ever create schematics for the wiring? I see you mentioning it during the summer.

How exactly are you charging the battery?

Hey sorry about the delay on this. The battery needs to be removed in order to charge. You will also need a NiMh charger like the one linked below:


Hey , i have pretty much finished everything but i can't seem to get my teency 2.0 to work with all 8 buttons :/
What do i need to install on it so it will work with all buttons and not just 2


Hi Djarden-

Try following the tutorial posted below:


It should work for setting up the teensy as a USB joystick using the Teensyduino software add-on for arduino. This will allow the Teensy to control multiple joystick axis/button inputs.

yeah i did do that , but my teency only picked up 2 buttons , and it was all wired right i made sure ! :(

The code he linked in the comment only implements 2 tactile buttons and a joystick . If you would like code to use the example code you can open arduino and then go to File<examples<teensy<joystick<buttons. That code implements 9 buttons but you don't have to use them all

Hey, thanks for the help with this questions. I failed to mention that I modified the example code to include more buttons.

Hi, Any potential of asking for a hardware list (Screws, nuts and bolts), that type of stuff?

I am in the process of making one of these. Got most of the parts printed and most electronics on hand, what I don't have is on order. I love this build and can not wait to complete it.

Hi DATact72-

Don't want you to think I've missed this comment, I just haven't had time to sit down and look through my old notes yet. I will try to this weekend. I just saw the new in-progress pictures you uploaded and they look amazing! In case your in a hurry for the hardware I'm pretty sure that the two screw sizes I designed to were 8-32 (for the case) and 4-40 for various mounting purposes.

No worries at all. Everyone is busy and this is a hobby for us. I actually went to Home Depot Last night and picked up some screws.

Here is what I got: (I will update quantities when I finish the build as I am not certain of whats needed).

6 - 32 X 1/2" Flat Head Phillips

6 - 32 X 1 1/2" Flat Head Phillips

6 - 32 Nylon Lock Nuts

6 - Internal Tooth Lock Washers

Other than that I used Hot Glue to mount the speakers and switches and SuperGlue most other places. I have also cut the bolts down in length where needed with a Dremel. I also hot glued over the ends where they may come in contact with wires to prevent cuts/chafing.

Thanks for the comments. Overall I am pleased with my work, however, it is a bit sloppy as I have been doing this in between my actual job and hours that I should be sleeping. I have some ideas for a 2nd rev. but want to finish this to be sure they are feasible. I also purchased a Stereo Amp for this and will do some testing likely to see if I am going mono or stereo.

I will update my build with images as often as I can. Thanks again for the Amazing Build to start with, without your efforts and build I certainly wouldn't be doing this one. Great work.

I also want to thank BigLazyB for his efforts too. He created a full step by step document on this. I haven't used it yet, but I did browse it and there are definitely some parts I will use as a guide. He also created a really nice wiring diagram that is of great help. Between yours and his builds this should cover most everything someone will run into. While I am familiar with all aspects of this, I still love to read what others do and how they do it. Its always a learning experience.

I know it's against internet code of politeness, but before I go through all 48 comments below... Have you posted a parts list and schematics anywhere for this project anywhere by chance? :)

I wanted to take a crack at this portable gaming thing myself. And my initial idea appears to be landing closer to yours than Ben Heck's. (I don't have to make-it-smaller confidence that he has.) Love all the pictures in your imgur albums; thank you for this!

Also, do you get your hardware (screws/washers) from a particular place, or hassle your orange-big-box store for smaller sizes?

So I got another question (sorry if all these questions are getting annoying!). How did you set up a system for charging the battery? Also if its possible then can you get the scematics uploaded? I'd like a better idea on how you wired everything up! (Considering I'm a 15 year old student who is of an intermediate level of electronics skill the scematics would really help me with the wiring)

Oh and one more thing to add. What software did you use for the 3d modeling and do you have any tips to help out with the modeling and creation of a case design?

Hey tuxdude, I don't mind the questions at all, sorry about my delays when responding. I'll start by answering the software question. I am lucky enough to have access to Solidworks which is a huge help with complex designs. I recently found a program called 'FreeCAD' that is similar to Solidwarks just not nearly as robust (due to it being free :P), if your looking for a CAD program to try check it out. As far a tips for designing the case, one thing I think is essential is to have 3D models created for all the internal parts before you model the case. It may be a bit tedious but its very useful for arranging components and properly determining cutouts and mounting patterns. If you'd like any other advice feel free to ask. As for the schematics I really apologize about them, I can just never find a good moment to sit down and draw them out. I'll give it a shot this weekend.

So, I've started modeling the bits for my case. Due to the 3d printers at my school being limited to 10 cm by 10 cm objects I'm splitting the case into 8 different parts (4 parts for the top, 4 parts for the bottom). When I've finished do you think I could send you the stl files so you can look over them and see if theirs anything important that I need to fix?

Sounds like a good idea to get around the limited build volume. My design pushed my printer to its very limit. If your plan is to glue the parts together let me know because I know of a really good Loctite epoxy you should use. And sure, I'd be glad to take a look at the models. Just let me know when they are ready and where I can find them.

Sweet, I thought it would be good to get someone to see my designs when they're done. Also I was planning on designing the case so it snaps together or has holes to bolt together which would probably be more reliable than using glue to hold it together.

Quick question. What's with those 2 switches on the back of the console? What do they do?

One switch cuts power to the speakers, the other cuts the power to the screen. The speaker switch is there because even at the lowest software volume setting the speakers still hiss slightly. If one wants to use headphones the speakers can be silenced completely using the switch. The screen switch turns off the screen allowing the Portaberry to be plugged into a TV using the Raspberry Pi's HDMI output. If you intend to use the HDMI out the internal screen cannot be on or else the Pi will default to the composite output and skip over the HDMI.

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Just ordered the parts I need! I'm going to perform a bit of a remix of this project and add some extras. I'll make sure to document it and upload a picture of the finished product!

Awesome! Can't wait to see how it comes out. If you have any other questions feel free to ask.

So, my parts just arived in the mail! Finally I can get things started!

were did you get the emulator

Search for RetroPie. The image contains several emulators.

Quick question. How did you wire up the battery to the screen and raspberry pi?

The screen and (technically) the Pi are wired in parallel to the battery. However, the pi itself it not wired directly to the battery seeing as the battery is 9.6v and the Pi needs 5v, the display on the other hand can run directly off the 9.6v. Instead a UBEC power regulator is wired in parallel with the display, this supplies a steady 5v to the Pi.

Nice Project!
Which construction tool did you use to draw the parts? Do you have source file to remix them, other than the STLs?

Thank you!
Sorry about the delay.
I used Solidworks to create the files. If you'd like I can post the .sldprt files or even .steps files if that is better.

Since I have no acces to Solidworks anymore, I started a derivate from scratch. I will publish it when the first test prints are good.
But thank you for the offer!

A scratch derivative sounds awesome! Its always interesting to see the improvements people make to my designs. So you'll be posting it as a derivative of this design? I can't wait to see how it comes out.

Me again, I was working on a version made from scratch as well. I finished up some concept drawings a little while ago if you wanted to see those.

Sure! Like I said above I'm very interested in seeing what others are doing with this design. I can give you some feedback if you'd like. Also I believe I had told you earlier that I'd provide schematics for the system and as of yet I have not. I'm very sorry about this but I haven't had time to sit down on this project for the last few weeks. If you still need them I may be able to pull something together this week if I'm lucky. Sorry again about the delay.

Thats ok, everyone has busy times. You can take your own time on the schematics. I'll try and scan in my first few concept drawings of my case design so I can show you them. The design may need to change as the project continutes but I'll see how it goes.

Hi! Yes, I will post my design as derivate of yours.
Currently I have about 70% of the mechanical construction, but I have to wait for some parts, so I get real measurements of them.
Meanwhile I make some electronics designs for efficient power supply and charging control.

Hi! Here is my actual state of the concept: http://tinypic.com/r/16b0ghy/8
I removed the analogue stick, because of its size and retro games don't use it. First I wanted analogue and d-pad, but with the off-centered layout, it would be hard to play with.
I desoldered everything off the rpi, so I got a overall height of 25mm. It uses two LiIon Cells with charging circuit and buck converter for the power supply. I added a front-USB connector, where a USB drive can be connected. The center buttons and LED are connected to GPIOs, which start a python script which copies the roms from the USB drive in the correct folders of the pi. The LED indicates the state of the procedure (red: copying, green OK, blue: error...)
First I wanted to use the GPIOs for the joystick inputs, but then I decided to use a Atmega32u4 board, because of the capabilities of analogue input. Maybe I add a PSP thumbstick in version 2.

Quick thing to mention is that you don't need that python script. When you plug a usb stick into the raspberry pi when retropie is on the emulation station screen it will create a load of folders on your usb stick with each folder being a different system. Simply place the roms in the folders, plug the usb stick back into the pi when emulation station is running in retropie and the roms will be copied over.

So, I'm attempting to make one of these myself (with a modified design to accomidate extra buttons). I'm in the process of making up the schematics for wiring stuff. Problem is while I had a look at the pictures you took during construction I can't figure out for the life of me how you actually wired the stuff up. If you have some schematics of how everything went together then I would really appreciate it if you could pop them up. In the meantime I'll be moving on into 3d modeling the case to 3d print (My school has some 3d printers so I can get the case printed there).

Hi tuxdude-
So ya I had planned on making some schematics for this a while ago but it just sorta fell on the back burner. I'll try to piece something together to help but it will probably take a few days to a week depending on my schedule. Good luck with the 3D printing btw, let me know how it turns out. As for an Xbox controller, I'm betting that they have pretty high quality joysticks in them, the only issue is that the mounting configuration in the models I posted most likely won't accommodate them. Also you'll probably have to de-solder the potentiometers from the base board which can be annoying. You'd likely have to do some redesigning to make them work but its definitely possible. If you haven't seen it yet I posted a bill of materials in the instructions that links a joystick breakout board that is easier to work with and fits the current design. . . . . also its pretty cheap ;) I hope this helped a bit, I'll try to get some schematics in the near future. Any other questions feel free to ask.

Thanks for the quick response! I have been using your bill of materials as reference to help me out which has been very useful. The only issue is that I live in New Zealand so I have to order my materials from elsewhere because amazon won't ship the items on the materials bill worldwide. I'm making up my own bill at the moment and its going to be a bit more expensive for me to get the materials which is why I wanted to try using the Xbox joysticks to save some cash (I also wanted to use them because the Xbox controller pretty much connects to the Xbox via a USB connection just with a different sized plug which should increase compatibility). Still, I'm also making a few other changes to the design such as adding a D-Pad, dual analog sticks and some extra shoulder buttons to maximize emulation compatibility. I'll try documenting my design as I make it as well so you can see how it turns out! I appreciate you trying to get the schematics finished as well because that should be a big help when it comes to wiring stuff up. Thanks again for all the help!

Almost had it finished over the weekend.
But my screen stopped working and i think i blow up my R-Pi :( so i had to oder another one grrr stupid thing!

Hey man how did the project come out? Any luck? If you have some pictures of the build I'd love to see it.

Hey , could you maybe email me a few pics on the wiring of the buttons (all 6 ) and the joystick to the teensy 2.0?
thanks :)
Almost have all the parts and will make it soon and show you :)

Hey dude check out this album (http://imgur.com/a/iMhbW#0)http://imgur.com/a/iMhbW#0) album. It contains a load of details shots I took during construction and might help you with the wiring. If you need more info let me know.

Hey , i have been looking at your pics alot ,still can't seem to work it out.
It's still abit new to me :P
If its not to much to ask more help would be amazing :D

Hey dude sorry about the delay but the last couple days have been a bit busy. I'll try to put together a schematic for the controls early this week.

sweet, no rush :)
im still waiting on some parts off ebay :D
thanks very much for getting back to me tho :) xo

Hey man. I just added a schematic explaining the wiring of the controls. Let me know if it helps.

Sweet thanks so much :)
will help alot :D
Just got my Battery and Switch Mode UBEC 5V@3A :D so now i can get it all together and see if it works then install it :) cant wait!

Awesome! Glad the schematic helped. When your finished be sure to submit a picture. I'd love to see how it comes out!

will do :D.
Just having an issue with my screen :( , it doesnt wanna show the pic on it . and i know it works grrr

Hi, I really like your Portaberry and want print mine....but I have a problem to run the retropie with my 480/272 screen. Got black Screen after the splash screen of retropie, try to configure config.txt but always black screen...
Could you give me your config file, or a tips to run retropie on my screen ...please ^^

Hi there. I actually had the same problem initially. Did you mount the RetroPie image to an SD card or did you do the full (and super long) installation? I initially did the SD card mount route and was getting the black screen. I couldn't find an exact solution but after switching to a new SD card (and following the proper steps to mount the image :P) it worked. My best advice would be to try another SD and carefully follow the instructions to mount the image found here: http://supernintendopi.wordpress.com/http://supernintendopi.wordpre.... If this doesn't work try to install it over the internet (it just takes FOREVER, almost 24 hours for me). I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes.

Shame on me, I can change the resolution in the GPUI of retroarch, but I can't save it ^^, Must find why!!!
But the problem for the resolution of the LXE desktop is not resolve....is it matter for a portaberry? I think no ^^
I'm just a Noob that try to setup a thing he never touch, and think he can setup it with facility....

Hi, first I do the super long install but something was wrong, and cannot launch retropie, maybe a bad install (I'm clearly a noob with Linux and the pi),
So I search for solution and found the SD card image, after install it on the SD I was abble to see something after splashscreen, but resolution was too high (720/480) for the screen and give some sparkling and the LXE desktop was not readable.
I try to config the config.txt with the config I take with raspbian (for the long install) with
framebuffer_height = 272
framebuffer_width = 480
sdtvaspect = 3
end set the overscan...
But with this, got always black screen -
-, try to change the http://runcommand.shruncommand.sh to 2 in the ES_config, config video fullscreen X/Y in retroarch.cfg, try lot of thing but allways this fuc*%# black screen, so I don't know what I must do to have the good resolution for screen and retropie....
For now I leave the config.txt with all the basic setting give with the SD image, but it's run to 720/480...I don't like it but this works :(

Hey Djamuka sorry you're having problems. I'm a bit of a noob to the raspberry pi myself. What type of display are you using? By the resolution you mentioned I'm guessing your using the composite video out from the pi. If possible have you tried it using HDMI out? Any luck?

Soon to be leaving thingiverse because of Makerbot's behavior towards open source.
Details: http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/5/25/has-makerbot-crossed-the-line-for-some-yeshttp://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2...

Very interesting project.
How do you get the 12v for the display?
You only have the batterie pack with 9,6v and the hobbywing for 5v.

The display is running directly on 9.6v. The step down converter built into it is speced for 12v (for use with car batteries) so there is definitely an efficiency loss but it is manageable. I've seen a few projects from other folks in which they completely bypassed the step down converter and ran the screen directly on 5v

What build platform size do you need to be able to print this. Any quick pointers on what you would do differently 2nd time around?

My printer has an 8X8" build platform and this really pushed it to it's limit. Also, my printer seems to have issues printing large flat surfaces so I cut the case into as many smaller pieces as I could (this gave the added benefit of spreading out the risk over multiple prints). I actually plan on making another version of this and these are the changes I plan in order to make the new one smaller/cheaper/easier:
1)Solder Audio/Video/Power/USB connections directly to the raspberry pi: If you can see in the pictures, the RCA, Audio, USB, and micro USB connections on the raspberry pi take up a lot of space. Plus, all the required cables cost me nearly $30. In the future I believe it would be much easier to just solder the connecting wires directly to the tabs on the raspberry pi board (and potentially remove the now unnecessary connectors). This would save loads of space and money.
2)Ditch the split-control layout: While having the joystick left and actions buttons right looked and handled well, it added a ton of extra confusion and wiring. In the future I plan to go to a classic Gameboy control layout and mount all the buttons to a single PCB.
3)Li Ion batteries: They are smaller, lighter, and have greater power density than the NiMh batteries that I used. Just have to be careful with them
4)Lighter gauge wire: I originally thought 22 awg was pretty light but it quickly filled the case and became a nuisance.
So ya that's about it. Anything that makes the design smaller leads to less printing and makes for an easier project. Hope this helped. Any other questions let me know.