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agepbiz

Surprise Egg #7 - Tiny Car Carrier

by agepbiz Nov 17, 2018
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Thank you for the nice words! And great photos! I am glad your son likes it :) If you click on [Post a Make] on the right side of the project page and upload the photos there they will get more exposure and easier for others to see

Any guesses as to how these would turn out using a DLP printer? I've got the Anycubic Photon. I'm new to printing, so I may be missing something obvious, but I'm guessing it would work fine?

Unfortunately they wont work, I have tested a few myself on my Photon. Not even the Form 2 will be able to make them articulated. They fuse due to resin printers not handling tolerance very well, and resin getting trapped. They will look very nice though. I was able to print the Jet Fighter from egg #6 by upscaling it to 150% and tweak the clearance a lot. Also added draining path for the resin
https://www.instagram.com/p/BsELE4lookg

Thanks for the info! I'll mess around with it and see what I can do. For the use I have in mind, it would mostly just be nice if the egg hinge functioned - the moving parts on the other pieces would be cool, but not 100% necessary.

Hi, my partners and I are working on a TSA project for school and were wondering if we could have your permission to use your model.

What is a TSA project?

TSA is the Technology Student Association, we are competing in their competition.

Does not tell me much. How do you inted to use the models? The license on these are Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - No Derivatives license.

We intend to use the cars as game pieces for a board game(which is our project) we will not be selling the game.

I see a bunch of people able to print these on the Ender 3, but I can't even get close. My edges are typically bonded (wheels won't free and ramps won't articulate) and that back ramp simply will not stick long enough to print (with PLA at least). I've got nothing set above 100% in terms of lines or fill, I'm using PLA, and I wonder if it's just a bad PLA. I've tried temps from 200 down to 185 with no real discernible difference. I'm using the Ultimaker Cura slicer. Can someone post settings that work for them for the Ender 3 and Cura as a slicer? Love the design, truly awesome!

If the ramp get loose it is most likely because of the bed not being level enough. This is such a small model with tiny contact surface, so the leveling is very important. Try increasing the first layer height to someting like 120 to 150% but make sure the first layer width is not more than 100%. Also it looks lile you are overextruding, pushing to much plastic, lower the flowrate (I use Simplify3D where this setting is called Extrusion Multiplier). But as you say a bad filament might ruin a print. Try a different spool if you have. When it comes to temperature I usually print a 220c with Fillamentum PLA

I do have an EZABL, so hopdeully bed level isn't an issue. =] I really appreciate the input. You're a real credit to the community. I'll try a bigger initial layer for the adhesion. I'll reduce flow to 90% and see if that helps with the squish together of my gaps. Unfortunately I bought a set of 5 spools of the same brand. =]

Thanks! All spools doesnt necessary be bad eventhough they are from the same brand, but cheap brands tends to have uneven thickness that will play a part in the print quality. I have actually gotten a bad spool, but I contacted the maker and got a new spool. Attached you see the big difference between a good and a bad spool. Both are the same brand and same type of filament, same temperature and settings. Only difference is the batch. The bad spool was unusable

Closer with 90% fill, but still broke both the hinges on the gates and the wheels popped off instead of coming free. I can't imagine going lower than 90%. I printed on normal (.15) instead of fine (.1), so I'm going to try a finer resolution as well. There's a little striation from the low flow in the walls it seems. Any other thoughts on increasing the space in the hinges and axles without printing at 20% flow? ; )

Also when the wheels are stuck, try wiggle them sideways (in and out) rather than rotating them. Rotating them sure will break them

These eggs are recommended to be printed on 0.1. Lower layer height do handle overhang better. Looking at you photo the layers looks a bit sloppy and the circular parts are rather oval which makes me suspect some loose belts or bolts on the printer. Make sure the printer is mechanicle secure (I have had the same issue myself, was fixed by thightening loos belts and bolts). Also make sure you have good partscooling

I really appreciate the pointers. I tried at the higher resolution, and I really see no difference. I checked that everything was tight. It's so frustrating. The detail is great on the front (pictured), but on top (I guess when filling a layer) it's a mess. I'll take my issues elsewhere at this point, but thank you for your advice and support. =]

Wow, that's an amazing difference. Thanks again! I'll report back since I know you're DYING to know if I get it printed. ; )

Thanks - my kids are loving these. Leo wants a boat. Howsabout a trawler?

A boat falls a bit short of what I usually makes. One of the challenges for me is that I want them to be articulated with some rotating parts or hinges. Also designing these requires shapes that are able to be print-in-place and no support structures

I am glad your kids love them, it makes me happy!

Project is awesome. Can you show your settings in simplify3d for print these small machines? Thanks

Thanks! Here is the Ender 3 FFF file for this project

Thank you for quick reply.

Awesome design! Printed dozens of small cars for my boys.

Have you considered chamfer the wheels? This would help fight them fusing with the body on the first layer.

After experimenting with flow, bed distance and temperature, I can make wheels rotate and do not fuse, still the "bottom" wheels have tiny "elephant foot" that is really annoying and visible for print this small.

Thanks! Yeah chamfering was in my mind. I did so on my first few eggs, but they had much bigger wheels. On these small wheels I had to go for more contact surface to the bed. A few things that can cause the elephant foot: Nozzle to close to the bed, causing the first layer to get smudged. Some slicers and slicer profiles have extra width set on the first layer, turn that off. The attachment is a screenshot from S3D with a random slicer profile. The First Layer With at 150% sure will create an elephant foot. I'll experiment more with chamfering if I make small wheels again

It's probably just my bot, old PEI surface or something, seems like plastic just needs to be pushed a bit to the bed to actually stick.
No need to change anything, great design, I was curios about chamfering and got the answer, thanks!

I've tinkered with Z offset (nozzle to the bed distance) as low as 0.025 increments and it's either stick with, let's call it "elephant's baby foot", since the effect is tiny, yet annoying, or the plastic does not stick and drags with the nozzle. First layer width is at 100%, may probably try to decrease it to 90-95% and see.

On my Makerbot Replicator 2 with a non-heated acrylic bed (I sometimes use glue stick on it) I never had problems with a flange, but I see that on my Ender 3 with coated glass bed I get tiny amount of flange (attached a frame of a timelapse for my upcoming egg), and now it cannot be unseen haha! I will definitely have that in the back of my head when going forward :)

Just an idea: that can be the material. Some plastics may spread out/squash more at the first layer either by the nozzle pushing it into the bed or by weight of upper layers. This is my theory, not knowledge. Probably you've been using another plastic/brand on MR2.

I use the same brands of filament on all my printers. I think the biggest different is the heated bed vs non-heated bed. I believe the heated bed makes the lowest layers a lot more softer and squishier more prone to be smudged

Oh, sneak peek at your next design, haha!
Yes, exactly, "flange" that can not be unseen, sorry.

I have already posted about the next egg on instagram, if you want more than a sneak peek :) Not the most complex model of the bunch, but it is the smallest egg so far:)

https://www.instagram.com/p/BroMXtSnNrN/

How long did it take to print everything?

Also this is the biggest egg and takes several times longer to print than the smallest egg

I dont remember. If I had to guess I would say 6-7 hours probably. I printed several of each before I changed filament. 30min each small car or something

I seem to have difficulties printing the egg on my Ultimaker 3.

First problem seemed to have been the first layer - which I fixed on second attempt, but now the edges seem to be glued together :(. No way to open the egg.

Any tips?

If the parts gets fused it usually a symptom of too much plastic, overextruding. Try lowering the feedrate. In Simplyfy3D slicer this setting is called "Extrusion Multiply" not sure what it is called in other slicers

Excellent model. Is this scalable to a larger sizes? Or does it loose it function as you enlarge it? I would like to double the size of everything, have you tried this yet? Thank you for your designs. Looking forwarded to giving this to my grand son.

Thanks. These designs scale up very well. Here is a print I did at 200%
https://www.instagram.com/p/BqqVyTYH8M3

Thank you. I think I will try it. Can I print it at 0.2000 or do I need to do it at 0.1000 layer height?

I recommend 0,1mm. Lower layers do print overhang better

Great model as always, although some problems with durability on the moving joints on my prints.
Have you considered adjusting the angle of the moving parts on the STLs to give faster printing times? Struck me that this could affect printing times considerably?

You're a star these are brilliant ! Just what my kids (18 and 23) will love for Christmas. I've just tightened my belts on the dreamer and reduced my layer height to the planck length.
god jul min venn til deg og din familie !

Haha! Thank you! I hope your kids will enjoy these. Merry Christmas

drit kule disse eggene du har, dette ble utrolig kule julecalender gaver til jr her hjemme, og han synes det var drit kult

Tusen takk! Veldig gøy å høre at de ble satt pris på :)

White looking good instead of blue egg from last image.. amazing design.

next will be like Egg Home.

Thank you for this thing! Thumbs up to you!

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Wow! Great work.
Printed all the previous eggs and worked well.
Challenge accepted :-)
Thank you very much

Thank you for the great work
is it possible to print it in 200%?

This is super cool but the wheels and Slic3r drives me crazy. Does anybody print this on Prusa mk3 and slice it in Slic3r? I had to make outer perimetr thiner so it slice correctly. It prints very nice. (Truck) Top and back moving part are kinda ok and after some wigling move but wheels not. Looks like seam has a bit more material outside and sticks to the rest of truck. I tried to adjust filament retraction to lower some tiny stringing I had. 0.4 nozzle, 0.1mm layer... Going to try 0.15mm layer

I've printed his previous eggs on a Mk3 with Slic3er at 0.1mm with a 0.4 nozzle and they came out very well. Will be trying this one soon. You do need to be using decent quality filament - I've been trying really cheap stuff from eBay lately and while some of it can be made to work for my everyday needs, it's not suited for high-detail models like this!

Чертов гений! Простите за выражение.

Nice design as usual
How much space or tolerance between the moving parts in car carrier?

Thanks! The tolarance range between 0.26mm and 0.35mm depending of the shap. If I remember correctly

Love your work - I've printed all of your toy eggs, but I'm having the hardest time with this one. The wheels & axles are so thin, I keep breaking them on when trying to spin the wheels. There's a tiny bit of fusion going on in the first few layers that I can't seem to avoid.

My print settings:
80% material flow
25% infill
205 degrees C
3 perimeters
0.1mm layer height

Other suggestions?

Thanks again for your efforts.

Thanks! Dont try to spin them free but rather wiggle them sideways, less likely to break if parts are fused. If the first layers do fuse it is usually a sign of the nozzle too close to the bed (make sure you can slide a paper sheet between the nozzle and bed with some friction) or make sure your slicer profile does not have a wide first layer. I have seen profile have some really wide first layer, see attachment. On my Ender 3 I currently have 120, 100, 35

I'm using a Dremel 3D40, so the leveling is done automatically. Not sure how/if I can change the first layer settings. I attached my slicer window for reference.

I'm trying again, but printing directly on the bed instead of using painter's tape. We'll see if that helps the first layer.

Amazing Model!
Can't wait to print one for my son!

Quick question, have any of you guys printed this with Cura on an Ender 3?
I'm a bit confused with the 3 perimeters and 15-40 infills (as they related to Cura).

My settings are attached.
thanks guys,
Geo

Perimeters is the same as Wall Line Count. And for the Infill I believe I printed the egg with 15% infill and the vehicles with 40% infill

Thanks for the quick reply @agepbiz,
I've tried so many different settings, I've had some improvements, but still nowhere the quality it should have, see attached, the last one with 40% infill is the top right (it looks better on the other side, but still...) :'(

My cura settings are also attached, in case you have any tips...

I'll keep on trying, in any case, thanks a lot man!

Cura version? I'm on 3.6.0.

Try ideamaker; https://www.raise3d.com/pages/ideamaker

My ender 3 have issues, but not those kind of issues :-D

Those wheels are not round at all. What printer is this? Is the belts and scew thight? Nothing loose?

Everything is tight everywhere as far as I can tell... nothing is wobbly and still I get these weird results..
It's an ender 3, but I keep high hopes I'll get to the bottom of it, the cars are perfect for this because they take about 15~20 minutes per print/tweak... I'm starting a spreadsheet now to make sure I can tie the settings to the results.

I'm an absolute n00b, so this all helps understand the settings better.

Maybe try lowering the temperature of the nozzle? I use 215°C for the first layer and 205°C for the rest and it works quite well.

Yes I agree those look like very high temps for the noxxle and pla could be melting too much

Very Cool, Well done man.
Keep up the great work !
Thanks for sharing :)

Amazing work! Thank you, my kids will love them! I just need to get my new Ender 3 dialed in, figure out settings in CURA, and then I am going to absolutely give all of your eggs a try!

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Phenomenal mate! It only took me half a dozen tries to print the excavator, we'll see how long this one takes!

Haha, thanks! But if you managed the excavator in the end the printer should now be dialed in? :) I believe this one is easier to print than the excavataor though

Thank you continuing to share these amazing models. I always look forward to seeing what you have to share with everyone.

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