by Riphaeus Nov 21, 2018
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Danke, absolut Perfekt !!!!

this is an evil evil machine! keep away from pissed off girlfriend hehe

This design is great!! I noticed the ribs of the bowl while viewing the layers in the slicer for added rigidity. Very well thought out design, and the way you designed the screw vs the handle makes perfect sense and works out really well. As well as the flat top of the bore for the threads to be 3d printed. It prints very well. I've cracked quite a few pecans with ease. Easily the best nutcracker I've ever had!

It took me one shattered testicle and a trip to the ER to realize it's not meant for intimate use.

In case you didn't hear me, DO NOT PLACE YOUR BALLS IN THE CRACKER.

Other than that, fantastic design. Might print another

I had no issues with my testicles while using this design, please don't spread false information.

Phew, I'm glad I'm not the only one.

Great engeneering and design, thank you a lot :)

Are the extra blocks on the inside of the main body intentional? Do they increase strength of the body?
I've found it a bit weird to see them "hidden" inside there.

Congratulations on a nicely done project. Well thought out design and excellent engineering.

Very good job, I printed 3 for: my wife, my sister and my grandma, work perfectly.

I have printed this file 2 times everything prints out and is usable however, the bowl when I print it, has some gouges on the right hand side, if you look at it from the end without a hole at the bottom. Wondering if anyone else is having the same issue??? I am using a Robo3D Plus1 printer and using astroprint box to send to the printer slicer 3 I believe is the slicer. let me know if you find the same happening to you or if you figure out a fix.

Very nice, will print and give to wife for torture test.

This looks like a good thought out design. Will be printing this in the next day or two. Thx.

I've printed this and it works really well. Thanks for sharing this design with us.

printing it @ this moment. body needed 5 hours and 20 minutes on my i3 mega with preferred settings. keep you posted, plunger is printing now

printing went perfect, only question I have is the treads why is there a peace flat and not round

The flat area at the top of the horizontal threaded hole in the body is there to avoid the need for support material to be used for the print. If you move up the upper half of the inner surface of such a hole the surface starts to form an overhang, and the angle of the overhang increases as you move up towards the top of the hole. At some point that overhang will get to the point where the outer ends of new layers of extruded filament will be being laid down effectively over thin air, and they will sag down and distort the shape of the hole as a result of being unsupported.

One way of dealing with that is to have the slicer generate support material that would support the steepest overhanging parts of the upper surface of the hole, but I wanted to avoid that as cleaning such support out of a threaded hole would be a pain, and unlikely to leave a good enough finish on the inside of the threaded hole (good enough in terms of allowing the plunger to move/turn smoothly ).

My solution was to stop the curved surface of the inside of the hole at the point where the overhang would be expected to get too extreme and at that point have the wall go straight up to what would be its maximum height, and then finish the hole by bridging horizontally to the opposite side of the hole ('bridging' not suffering from the fact that it is printing over thing air because both ends of the extruded filament strands are held in place by the underlying print).

This looks similar to something that Angus Deveson (Maker's Muse) did in one of his recent videos, although instead of a flat surface at the top of the hole he extended the sides of the hole up when he reached 45 degrees of overhang resulting in a teardrop shape. I wonder which of the two methods produces the strongest result.

Very sophisticated and thought-through design. May I ask why you splitted the threaded bolt and the handle in two parts?

Splitting the threaded bolt from the handle was mostly the result of wanting this to print without any supports. The slopes on the thread are different on its two faces, one is angled and the other nearly flat. Printing with the sloped face downwards avoids the need for any support, while printing with the flat face downwards would imply supporting the entire thread (and that would almost certainly fatally compromise the thread mechanically, in addition to being a pain to clean off).

Given that the thread itself has to be printed with the handle end uppermost, incorporating the handle with the thread either means having the underside of the handle supported (which is quite a lot of support material for that area and at that height above the print bed) or making the underside of the handle conical. As I said, I did not want any supports to be needed for this design so that ruled out the former. The latter was ruled out because I wanted a wheel-like handle rather than a bulky knob handle for aesthetics, and to keep the overall size/length down for storage.

This is actually a really good excercise in design, well done.

Thank you! This is perfect timing for the holidays! This will be my dad's stocking stuffer!

You are welcome. Don't forger to warn you dad that PLA is not dishwasher safe.