35mm Film on 120 Spool

by coconnor55, published

35mm Film on 120 Spool by coconnor55 May 7, 2014
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10/29/14 - Added the matching spool - thing: 522005
10/7/14 - Added a combined STL
7/6/14 - I've added a PDF Read Me guide to using the adapter
6/16/14 - updated files to improve fit and reduce friction. May be loose on some commercial canisters but will now fit CineStill film and possibly Kalt. Print using 50% infill.

Tested and working. This adapts 35mm film canisters to work as a 120 format spool, and allows shooting 35mm film in any 120 medium format film camera. The 35mm film is centered on the 120 spool. Using this adapter allows using films that are not available in 120 format, and the entire 35mm film is exposed, resulting in images out to the edges, sprocket holes and all, resulting in a unique effect.

You may also want the matching spool at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:522005

Do not force adapters on. Make sure the splines are aligned and if tight, trim/sand or wiggle on carefully. The splines may need to be trimmed to fit Kalt bulk loading canisters and some others.

The hole for viewing the film number (usually a red window) on the camera must be taped over with black gaffer's tape or some suitable opaque tape to avoid back side exposure of the film. You will need to wind blindly about 1-1/2 turns at the beginning and taper down to 1-1/4 turn at the end. Most medium format cameras have no rewind, so you will need to unload the film in a darkroom or changing bag and manually rewind the 35mm film back into its canister. When processing, specify "process only" and "do not cut" and cut the film yourself.

These were designed for the Flyer 6x6 camera developed as a result of the Pinhole Printed Kickstarter project (pinholeprinted.com) but can be used in any 120 medium format camera.

The combined STL is printed as is. If using the individual parts, the bottom STL part is printed as is and the top STL part must first be rotated 180 degrees about X or Y to sit flat on the bed for printing. Now recommending 50% infill due to the small cross-section of the splines.

If you do not have a 3D printer or have it tied up with other things, check at http://www.pinholeprinted.com/order/35mm-film-to-120-spool-adapter/ for alternatives. Shapeways does a great job.

This is CC by SA 3.0 - this means anyone can freely print or even sell the adapters - but you must provide attribution if you do so. You can print a Thing Tag right off this page and display it if demonstrating your printer capabilities or distribute it with any copies you sell.


The bottom part is printed as is. The top part must first be rotated 180 about X or Y to sit flat on the bed for printing. Recommend 40% infill (even 50% is ok) due to the small cross-section of the splines.
Do not force adapters on. Make sure the splines are aligned and if tight, trim/sand or wiggle on carefully. The splines may need to be trimmed to fit Kalt bulk loading canisters and some others.

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Hi, i have printed this adapter and it came out fine and works very well. I have found out a little trick that removes the necessity of rewining the film after shoot. Instead of using the 35mm takeup spool and the 35mm film can adapter just use the adapter on BOTH SIDES. Simply connect the end of the unexposed film to the core of a second film can. When both film cans, with the adapters, are inside the camera you take pictures and spool from one can to the other with every shot. When done, the exposed film is inside the light tight second film can.
PRO: you dont need a dark room to rewind the film.
CON: You waste the last shot.

Good day! May I ask if these can be printed without support?

Yes, they are designed to be printed without support. The ends should be on the printer bed with the fingers up, looking like picture #4. As shown in the second photo, that part needs to be rotated in X or Y by 180 degrees. The 120 spool (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:522005 ) needs support.

120 Takeup Spool for 35mm Film

Alright, thank you!

These work a treat; very easy to print, they fit my camera just fine and the results are quite nice. Thanks for doing them!

Thank you! Always a pleasure to get feedback.

Hello Clint,
I printed it today and it's looking very good ! Except that I can't figure out why the film counter does not advance when I try to load a 35mm film with it on a mamiya 6. Do you have any clue ?
Thank you for your help,

Most 120 cameras have a red window on the back for 120 film which shows the frame number printed on the paper backing of 120 rolls. Cameras that support 220 film don't have a red window since that would expose the film and use a film advance counter instead. Often there is a pinch roller that drives the film counter but since 35mm film is so much narrower than 120, it doesn't engage the pinch roller. That looks to be the case for the Mamiya 6 from what I can tell in photographs of the open back. You will just need to load the 35mm film with 3 turns on the takeup spool, mark the exposed portion with a marker, and count how many lever winds are necessary to advance past the exposed portion with at least 1/8" between frames, and remember it for future use. You will know when you reach the end of the 35mm film because you will feel the resistance to winding. Don't force it. At that point, you unload the camera in a changing bag or darkroom and wind the 35mm film all the way back in for processing (I don't know of a 120/220 camera that supports rewinding).

Thanks a lot, you are very knowledgeable ! I had a look, but unfortunately I can't see where that pinch roller might be. I would greatly appreciate if you have a means to point it where you've noticed it inside the mamiya 6. I tried to pre-load as you suggested, I can wind the film but the shutter won't fire. I plan to ask my favorite repair-man, he might know how to fool the machinery. I'll use it with my Holga in the meantime, which is great enough !

Your repairman sounds like the best bet to figure out how to fool the Mamiya 6. My Pentax 6x7 is the same way - it won't fire until the film advances to a certain point. I may be wrong about the pinch roller, it may be tied to the film advance lever and the back being closed (usually a tab that has to be pushed in when the back is closed). Holgas and other simpler cameras are easy to work with. Good luck!

Thanks for your work designing this tried making my own, but the tab that sticks out keep snapping. this works great.

yesssssss...you are AMAZING!!!!!!! finally

Nevermind what I typed before, it was actually a lot easier to design than I thought!

Hello, I just got a old camera from an antique store that uses 116 film, which is no longer made. I would love to make an adapter from 120 to 116, but I'm not great with 3d software, so if you could make something like that for me I would be very greatful.

Hello, I have printed my own copy of these and shared on a Facebook group. Now there is a lot of interest and I am printing this for people who ask me. I have forgotten to mention you at first, but then a member reminded me to give credit, which I did. I hope you are OK with this.

With attribution, no problem! Glad you like them. They are also on Shapeways (https://www.shapeways.com/product/974FD8QUV) for people with no printers or no friends with printers.

Hiya, I've created a bit of interest on a Facebook forum for these little guys and as such have ended up putting them on eBay for as cheap as I can afford (they take about 30 minutes to print a set.) I will make sure to send out attribution to all that are sold and continue to provide a link to your object page for photogs lucky enough to have their own 3D printers. Great job Coconnor!

I will try it for the Fuji GX680III .... photos will come as soon as i get it printed and tryed it out :)

I've contacted the seller and posted a eBay search link on my site. I actually have no problem with this - the adapter is for everyone to enjoy and the CC by SA license allows it, as long as credit is given to me. He posts the Thingiverse link on his auction, so that is sufficient attribution. If people don't have a 3D printer, they can get one from someone who does (he charges a reasonable price, IMO), or order them from Shapeways, which recently dropped their prices. Shapeways is actually better and stronger but a bit more expensive. I try to keep the links current on http://www.pinholeprinted.com/order.

SO awesome!!! I have an old Ricohflex IIIB that has the "Ricoh-kino" kit. That way I can use 35mm film in it, and its AWESOME. I especially like that it acts like a telephoto since the image is being cropped down to fit the 35mm. Can-t wait to try this out!

The only issue I can see (Which is acknowledged by the Ricoh-Kino is that you wont know how far to advance the knob. On the kino it automatically clicks a few times, and then stops.

Can it work with TLR camera?

It should work with any 120 camera. Couple of caveats as mentioned before. You'll need to tape over the red film counter window and blindly advance about 1-1/2 turns on each picture. The film needs to be rewound back into the can manually in a darkroom as most 120 cameras don't have the capability of rewind.

Thank you for your clear and helpful explanation.

Yes, I've updated the instructions. You generally must unload the film in a darkroom or changing bag and manually wind it back into the canister.

hi i am interested in this product however someone has pointed out that you cant rewind film on most medium format cameras, any chance you can enlighten me?

Yes, you can't rewind a 120. Use a changing bag to open the camera and remove the film, and then manually rewind the 35mm film back into its canister for processing.

Appreciate the Likes and Made One mentions!

Tape up the red film counter window on a 120 camera with black tape to avoid film exposure. I ran an old film through a 6x6 camera and found 1 turn was about right, but shot using 1-1/4 turns per exposure until out of film. I have not yet tried 1 turn to see if the spacing is adequate all the way through.