Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Creality Bondtech BMG/ V6 direct drive

by Hangtight Nov 27, 2018
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How do you generally locate the position for the fan duct? Do you have a certain distance from the tip of the nozzle to the bottom of the duct that you aim for?

1.5-2mm will work.

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In case some one needs a thicker plate, quick and dirty modded but works very well and is very stiff now

I finally got this printed without any issues. Feels way more rigid. Bonus is that the 3mm plate is the same thickness as my last mount so I didn't need to adjust the gear offset on the motor shaft (set screw is stripped). Thanks again for the modification.

Would it be possible to make the motor mounting plate 3mm thick instead of 2mm? It's a little flimsy and I'm having trouble with the very top portion of the print (duct mounting point) breaking off. Thanks!

I have suggest this month ago already too but Hangtight didint change it, so i modded it myself. with 3mm thick plate its working fine. but for me the main issue is now i only can use the stock 30mm fan for the V6.

Lol! Don't forget that I do this for fun in the little spare time I get between doing the stuff they means I get to eat! I do take people's feedback seriously, as I'd like everyone to gain something from both my designs and the hobby, which is why I go to the effort of CFD analysis etc.
I'm still unsure how you're experiencing failures at this point on the print. I'm using something very similar on my Aero mount which has been going strong for the last year, has survived a number of rebuilds and shows no sign of giving up. But I'll reinforce the area you're having issues with.

No worries man. I really appreciate the time and effort you put in to this. I have the issue sorted now.

Got a pic of where it's breaking?

It breaks at the red line. There is a single layer right at the point where it starts to taper that Cure does that "sewing machine" move. A bunch of tiny rapid diagonal lines in the center.

Hi I have bought an Ender 3 carriage plate and mounted it onto a Tevo Nereus as there are way more designs available for the Ender 3 mounting plates and they can be bought with roller assembly for about 10$ on Aliexpress.
Your design is very well thought and lightweight. Further the direct drive configuration of the Trianglab BMG + E3D V6 clones + pancake stepper works very nicely, is silent and no stringing
After my installation was finished I realized that the Nozzle tip is about 8mm too high even when I adjust Z gantry to the lowest point possible. Also the Nozzle is about 15mm too far on the right so I am loosing this surface on the x axis.
Would you mind to make a version of the assembly for Tevo Nereus where the Nozzle tip coordinates are moved by Z-8 and X-15 as compared to the present design ? I would be very thankful as I myself got no CAD abilities. If adjusting that much is not possible for any reason, than just as much as possible and I will have to grind the Z axis mounting plate so it does not hit the Z motor mount anymore and the left bed edge
Thanks in advance for considering.

I'd REALLY like to see this made with dual 5015s and a modified duct layout to enable a 40mm heatbreak fan attachment. Regardless, awesome design!

Dual 5015's would be a complete waste of time. You'd need so much nozzle area to avoid choking the flow that it physically wouldn't fit around the heater block. And there's really no space under a BMG set up as direct drive to fit a 40mm fan.
Sunon 30 x 10 axial fans flow more than enough air for a V6 hotend, and are quieter than the stock fan, so you can run them at a lower voltage for even quieter running without running into heat creep issues.

Completely agree! I got a Sunon fan for mine and it's perfect

I run my 30x30x10 fans on approx 8 Volts and it has enough cooling, so I don't see any use of a 40x40 fan.

Built and installed on my creality cr10s pro. Working wonderfully so far. My first print with this set up was with TPU and I had zero problems.
Built using a winsinn pancake stepper, winsinn 24v 30x30 and 5015, bltouch v2, Chinese e3d v6 and Chinese bontech copy (bmg). Also used a ender3 carriage as well as a NTC3950 thermistor. Firmware is tiny machines v 1.1.9 configuration was pretty straight forward.

what screws did you use to mount the X carriage? the head of the screws interferes with the bondtech because they arent flush.

Which bolts are you referring to? The mount is secured to the stock X carriage with M3 socket head bolts.

The v wheel bolts. Are they not supposed to hold the assembly onto the gantry but be screwed tight against the gantry itself? Should the head actually sit inside the plastic hole? Maybe that is my problem.

No. The V roller bolts are not used to secure the mount to the carriage.

Hi, Nice design! Is there cooling for the hotend/heatbreak on this?


There is space for the 30mm stock fan from E3D v6

Thanks! I stopped using that when I went to a different duct. Appreciate the response! I’ll dig it out

So I realize this design is for a E3D V6 hot end. Was curious if anyone has successfully used this design with the stock Ender 3 hot end?

The V6 hotend mounts directly into the extruder, so this doesn't work with the stock hotend. But I've got you covered...


There's a BMG version of the mount in the files.

Creality Direct Drive: Stock Extruder & Hotend

Can someone that has their nozzle perfectly centered on bed (ie - G0 X117.5, Y117.5 on the 235x235 ender bed) share the relevant marlin configuration with me?

Any direct drive mod for the Ender is going to push the nozzle position forward, so you're going to loose a little Y travel. However you can move the entire Y rail and carriage forward to gain it back.

Makes sense. I’m just trying to get my configuration for Marlin correct on offsets and what not. Struggling a bit so hoping to see what others have done.

Hey James,

I have some dimensions for the Geeetech A10. Would it be possible to either share these with you to modify the rear mount bracket, or could you share CAD with me to modify to fit the Geeetech for a remix?

I could use the STL, but its a pain.

If you post them up I'll happily model the X carriage for other users, and alter the mount on my designs to suit. Might take me a little while, but no problem to start with this one.


I created a quick remix - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3589143

ps- I'll upload and send you the mount and you can even use the remix to get rough positioning. The A10 mounts central on the carriage instead of to the right, like the Creality. I'm sure you could do a better job with the original CAD as my remix was done in 30 mins.


Geeetech A10 E3D V6 BMG Direct Drive Mount - To Fit Hangtights Creality Duct
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I can't get any screws to hold the base to the gantry without getting in the way of the stepper motor. PLEASE HELP!

Which ones are you having issues with?

The two large screws on the gantry. I can’t find any that fit without getting in the way of the extruder and the motor.

If you mean the bolts that secure the rollers, then the stock ones are fine.

The heads of the bolts prevent the extruder from sitting flush. The holes aren’t recessed st all so I’m not sure what to do.

Can i use this whit the micro swiss hotend on my ender 3


There is an alternative bracket in the files that accepts the BMG. The part cooling nozzle geometry is the same as this design, so part cooling is identical.

Creality Direct Drive: Stock Extruder & Hotend

No. The BMG is designed to accept J head hotends, not the Microswiss. I'll link you another of my designs that will do the job for you.

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for, though for the hot end I found one more option, the lava heater block, will it fit this? It looks bit taller than the original gear block may be the part cooling fan be off a bit...

I'm not familiar with the Lava. Do you have a link?
Or did you mean the Volcano?

XD, I dono why I typed lava,,,, yes you are correct. It's Valcano... :)


There's enough vertical adjustment on the duct that you can use the Volcano hotend with no problems.

Thanks, I have oreder both hot end and clone bondtech from aliexpress, it will take time to reach, by that time will start printing... motor mounting bracket will be stiff correct if I print in abs or petg?

Can a dial indicator somehow be hung from this?

You could use the ABL mounting point to fix a bracket for a dial gauge.

Has anyone tried a Mosquito/BMG with this setup?

It's been done with my Titan DD mount, but as far as I'm aware, not with this one. There is enough vertical adjustment to accommodate A Volcano hotend, so the Mosquito should be no problem. Off the top of my head I can't remember if it's longer or shorter than a V6, but I did design a special one off for a guy using the Slice with the Titan version. If you've got dimensions, or think there might be an issue I'll see what I can do for you.

Thanks, I'll let you know if I get one to install.

Is their enough room in their to use a 4010 fan with a mount like the e3d 3010? 3010 fans are too noisy even my origanal e3d.
I've bought a few and if their quiet they wont be strong enough and was about to start printing this setup however the 3010 fan makes me second guess it.

Hi, awesome works, once again!!
I want to jump to BMG extruder with V6 hotend but I’m a bit afraid of playing into the firmware to adjust the settings for a pancake stepper motor. Would this design work with a stock stepper motor ?

Yes but it is a little bit heavy.
You don't have to change anything in the firmware when switching to a pancake stepper.

For the BMD you only have to adjust the e-steps for the extruder.

Oh great ! I read somewhere that you had to play in the firmware for the smaller stepper motor, good to know!
Thanks. So for the Esteps, just replace the E92 value by E415 and that’s it?

please include step files so it can bbe modded easily

First of all, THANK YOU for sharing this.
I just have a problem with the sturdiness of the "BMG_Mount_V3" where the Stepper is mounted together with the Bondtech-Extruder.
I would like to request that this plate will be 3mm thick instead of 2mm what it is right now.
If you add the 1mm on the side of the Stepper it should have no negative impact for the functionality.

Working well, although it seems by bed is now offset - how do I adjust for this in Marlin? (seems the home position needs to be changed?)

ezabl offset the same as BLTouch?

EZABL is a bit heavy and can tilt slightly especially if there's any drag on its cable so don't worry about being absolutely perfect. But I measured X47.2 Y0.5.
Note: Remove the lock washers. I didn't at first and this just introduces even more tilt. Official instruction video says to remove them if not necessary

I saw the mount side remixed for the Ender. Has anyone remixed for the Tevo Tornado (Green)? I'm about to re-print the duct in resin since I finally got a resin printer. Would like to re-print the mount but I don't want to drill out the resin like I had to with the PETG/PLA printed bracket. TIA! Love how this thing performs BTW!

If someone can point me in the direction of an accurate model of the Tornado X carriage I'd be happy to come up with a mount for it. Glass you're enjoying the way it works. :)

I forgot to grab dimensions for you and unfortunately I have yet to find a model for this yet but it should be really close to what's on the CR-10 but with a few minor adjustments. Here's a pic at least for now.

So order of assembly... Is this correct?
1) attach mount to x axis
2) attach extruder/hotend to mount
3) attach duct
4) attach fan

I guess that would work assuming you're using right angled drivers

Mostly right. Attach the blower to the duct so it can be handled as an assembly.

so what's the target height of the duct? does the bottom of the duct sit like 1mm above the nozzle tip? higher?

About 1.5 - 2mm above the tip of the nozzle seems to be the sweet spot.

Thanks for all your work, I'm using your stock mount now but have a BMG and v6 on the way. Do you (or anyone else) have any input on choosing a stepper motor (Ender 3)? I'm looking at these 2, plus some others. As far as these 2, i'm leaning towards the one with the removable plug. Are there better options besides the $50 Moon steppers? Thanks if anyone has time to look.



For geared direct drive any 22mm pancake stepper will be fine. Trianglelabs adult one with their Titan Aero kids that works perfectly and is sold separately.

Thanks. I wasn't sure if the shaft length mattered, especially after you've thickened up the back plate as I've seen in the updates/comments.

Shaft length shouldn't be an issue.

These stepper motors are definitely too big. You should look for a small pancake motor.
I would recommend the following motor: https://e3d-online.com/motors-slimline-motor

Thanks. I thought the ones I linked are the same size, or smaller, than that one. I was concerned about the E3d one being .9 degrees. Would that effect/double my esteps settings, or would it still be ~415 with the BMG? I only know .9 degrees is 400 steps vs 200 on 1.8 degree, but can't find if that influences how I set things. I've read .9 is better for E as long as you're using a geared extruder for enough torque.

I also ordered the e3d slimline motor and am wonder the exact thing and found no answer, have you figured out how/what we need to set in firmware if not 415?

For a 1.8° motor steps will be around 415. For a 0.9° per step motor that doubles to around 830.

Ok awesome thank you very much I'll set it double for the e3d slimlime stepper then 830.

Im sure a coldend fan is tucked away in their someplace but is justvthe 30x30 or is their a 40x40? Thanx

The original coldend fan from the E3D v6 is used behind the part cooler fang.

Would you like to share your source files for the duct? I want to make some modifications and can not convert the duct in Fusion360 to BRep.
I would like to replace the nuts with brass inserts.

I'm happy to remix the duct to accept inserts. If you have the dimensions of the holes required it'll only take a few minutes.

I thing my comment did not get posted correctly. I make the holes 4mm by 5mm as seen in the image. This is perfect for hot inserting the brass nuts

The results look like in the second picture and are really strong.

4mm diameter by 5mm deep?

Yes that's right.

Hello, do you have an news for this small modification?

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hi I have printed your product with ABS, I am very impressed with your design, so light and stable,
but my concern is a little

  1. In the DUCK V3 DMG file, the fan lock arm is less sturdy and slightly swings when the printing speed is rather high.
  2. BMG Mount V3 is less thick because it becomes the foundation of the load of some parts (Steper + Bondtech +, Fan) so that it slightly swings.

Your design that for Titan I feel is even more sturdy.

maybe there is a suggestion for me, right size of print settings?

I print these with 4 walls, 20% infill in PETG, and they are plenty strong and rigid. But I've not printed at very high speeds.

thanks so much for sharing this design, couldn't be happier with it on my printer.

You're welcome. Hope it works well for you.

WOW!!! Gorgeous design!! I just did a boatload of CAD work to try to achieve a similar end goal because this didn't come up when I searched for it. My work is not in the same league. Not even close. Outstanding work!

Thanks. It's always good to hear that my effort is appreciated. Stick with the CAD. I only really picked it up a few months ago. But if you want to create stuff then there's the motivation to keep at it. :)

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Will this fit a micro swiss metal hotend for the CR 10S Pro? Thanks

The mount printed great but needed quite a bit of adjustment to fit my Tevo Tornado (green) X-carriage plate (Hot end holes weren't big enough, screw holes weren't large enough, top v-wheel screw head holes were too small as well, far left screw hole was about 0.2mm too much to the right of the hole). All easy adjustments after the fact but I may try and re-mix it for the Tornado if you are willing to post your source files. The biggest challenge for me was the duct part. I know that it's designed to print with no supports but I couldn't get it to work on any of my printers without supports. Also the slots for the nuts were all too thin. The 5050 fan mount hole and the adjustable rail mount (to connect to the main extruder assembly) weren't thick enough, as a few have mentioned, so they failed. Ultimately it's all mounted up and I'm starting testing with it. I would recommend beefing up the nut holes/insert locations and recommending supports for the duct portion. A notch for the 5015 fan is probably a good idea. As well as making the sleeve for holding the mouth of the 5015 fan longer so it doesn't risk popping out with vibrations.

I love the design and how compact it is vs. many of the other options I've seen. Was really disappointed to lose my 40mm Noctua hot end cooling fan. Maybe I'll try and re-mix something for that as well. Thanks again for putting together such a cool and well balanced design idea!

I've already widened the slots for the nuts as people were having issues. If your printer is well calibrated they should be 2.55mm wide.
how many walls did you specify? The pylon for the duct mounting is pretty tough if you've got good layer adhesion. Even on my PLA test piece it was hard to break, and a number of people have printed it in a variety of materials without supports. Where were you having issues that needed supports?
Hope it performs well for you.

I don't think it was the width that was the issue with the nuts, just the material around the nuts that seemed to be thin and/or break. I had several failures in trying to print the blower section with PETG so I switched to PLA. PLA cracked around most of the nut slots or holes but with a little glue it seems fine for now. I'll try and re-print in PETG when I get more in the color I want to use but with supports this time. PETG should be more pliable and resilient when pushing it. Might be nice to extend the slots for the blower height adjustment just slightly too. I wouldn't mind being just a hair lower but I can just file it down for now. I'm getting close to performance testing but had to design and print a shim for Z end-stop adjustment with the Volcano. I may also remix your design and try to make the extruder bracket higher to act as a built-in offset for the Volcano hot ends I use. Thanks again for your quick response and willingness to receive feedback.


on many 5015 fans, there is some extra material on the outlet. Is it possible to add a little notch on the duct for this?
I know that I can use a file to add the notch.
I also think that the material is a little bit thin, where the nuts are insertet. I would recomment to add a little bit more material for better printing and stability

I would rather have a version without nuts, just a thin hole so I can thread a M3 screw into the plastic, both for the fan and BLTouch on the right side and the for the duct to the mount on the left, makes no sens to have to fiddle with nuts in small slots when threading direct is working perfectly.

This is a great design. I had started to go with another design on my ender3 but since I have now gone to linear rails the other would not fit. this one does and is actually a much better design anyways. great work man. this thing fits together like a glove.

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although I have it less than a mm over the tip of the nozzle and I have a silicone sock over my heatblock, it cools my hotend down by 30 degrees and klipper shuts off at that point. Did I do something wrong that the airflow is going so much on the block?

Just got done ordering all the parts for this upgrade, for my CR10. Thanks for the excellent design, looking forward to trying it out.

Nice design, just for information the mounting plate doesn't fit the Ender-3 (from last summer), the protruding nuts on the bracket stands out 4.6mm and the recess in the plate is approximately 1mm less. On my Ender-3 I just grinded down those protruding nuts 1mm so it's working now, haven't checked the CR10 yet (hope it's okey, I think my older Ender-2 did work with your bowden V6 duct)
Cheers m8

This was brought to my attention a little while ago. Could have sworn I'd changed the design to suit. Let me check.

Changed. Thanks for pointing this out.

Yeah I think it was me who brought this out the last time as well ;)
I just checked my CR10 and that one has the shorter nuts.

Maybe you should keep both V2 and V3 otherwise there will be 1mm air between the stud and the plate?

All I've done is thicken the back by 1mm, so it still has enough material over the top of the studs.

Thanks, I think mine needs the thicker part. It has worked so far, but the new version will be more secure. This setup has been really excellent for me. I can't use the wire loom on mine until I lengthen some of the wires. But I AM using it to zip tie my laser filament sensor to. I really want to rework my gantry on my CoreXY so I can use one of your ducts. At the moment I use the Radial Fan Fang.

Could you modify the mounts for BLTouch and EZABL? They now have a slot that is 1mm too narrow to fit over the mounting plate (as a result of increased plate thickness, presumably)

Fixed. Thanks for letting me know.

Awesome! Thanks a lot for the design. It works quite well. I printed and tested it on my direct drive Ender-3. Liking it more than a Petsfang which is way bulkier, heavier, and takes more time to take apart if you need access to the hotend.

Good point! Sorry about that. I'll get it done and new files uploaded ASAP.. That'll teach me to alter things in a hurry. Fix one problem and make two more.

You're existing BLTouch mount doesn't work with the Volcano. I modified the mount to make it work. As for it to work with Tevo Tornado, i needed to add 1.5mm thick extra backing to the base plate so that the nut wont hit the motor and extruder. Mounts well afterwards.

Also, Is it possible for you to share the original files? I'd like to modify this where the BLTouch is located on the left side below the motor and not on the right. It doesn't work well with my Ender-2. I like the design.

If the split for the 2 fangs together with the 5015 go higher (petsfang look), wouldn't allow more airflow flor the v6 fan? Also between the fangs ppl could also fit a 4020 even?

There's more than enough space for low velocity airflow infront of the fan. Although it looks masked it actaully isn't. The stock 30mm fan has plenty of cooling for the V6 hotend, and there just isn't space under a direct drive extruder to fit a 40mm.

the left fang needs to stay under the motor.. I'll try to figure something out

Any chance for a EZABL mount? (18mm capacitive ABL?

Done. Let me know if it works out for you.

It looks like you left the old BMG Mounting plate, but deleted the BLTouc hmount. Do you mind adding the BLTouch mount again? Thanks

Done. Well spotted. And apologies, I'm not sure what happened there!

Hey. I just want to make sure, is the uploaded mounting plate the updated one? BMG_Mounting_Plate_V2.stl was updated on 12/07/18 vs the BMG_DUCT_V3.stl being updated on 12/30/18.

Do you need to extend the extruder stepper motor cable for this mod?

Hi, is there a space for a 40x20 hotend fan, or just 40x10 (stock)?

The stock fan on a V6 is 30mm. There's physically not space for anything larger under a direct drive extruder.

Can you share the BLTouch bracket model?

How is the nozzle position in relation to stock?

About 10mm further forward in Y than stock. It's as close to stock as physically possible. You can redrill and tap the Y carriage rail to move it forward slightly to regain the lost space if required.

How is the nozzle position in relation to stock?

Just tried this today and found that the stock extruder motor on the Ender 3 hits the X endstop plastic housing before the X carriage backplate can get to the endstop itself. On the other hand, your Titan Aero design has a thicker backplane so the stock motor just misses the housing.

I also had to drill out the holes for the stock hotend mount points on both models as I couldn't get the carriage to sit flush against the mounting plate.

I've ordered some extension cables for the extruder motor as the stock one won't reach. They'll probably arrive after Christmas though so I can't try this out just yet

Do you have a link for the cable extensions?

I ended up buying longer cables instead of extensions. The more connections you have, the more points of failure you introduce into the system. These are the ones I bought https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Lerdge-3D-Printer-Motor-Cable-Connector-4pcs-lot-DuPont-line-XH2-54-4pin-to-XH2-0/32826539023.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1fdb4c4dMy6rsU - got a set of four as I have other printers and like to have spares available.

Thanks for the feed back. I've got a revision for the backplate that should address the second issue. It'll be up in the next couple of days.
This was definitely designed around the compact stepper. Because of the geometry of the BMG vs the Titan Aero, allowing enough space for the full size stepper would put the nozzle a long way forward losing a fair amount of Y travel. The geared extruder doesn't need the torque of a full size Nema 17, so I took the decision to only accomodate the shorter motor, being mindful of the weight penalty using a stock size stepper would incur. It wouldn't be a problem to create a spacer plate, for those wishing to use the stock motor.

What kind of spacer plate are you suggesting? I just realized this issue. Wouldn't mirroring the whole design would allow any size of motor to be used? the 5015 takes just 15mm which is less than a usual pancake motor's width, and on the right side it wouldn't bump into anything. I don't know about the bltouch though, but I think that could come forward maybe like on the petsfang.

edit: I would loose additinal Y space :S

feedback: clearances should be larger, I printed on the stock ender3 with petg, and I have a difficult time to eg. snap the nuts into place

Just tried to mount it and the mounting plate won't sit flush with the carriage. The two protruding heatsink mounts are the issue. On my Ender they measure 4.54mm and the holes in the mounting plate are only 3.6mm deep.
The crap part is that I already removed the stock and wired in the V6 hotend. I think I'll just try to dremel it.

Update: Now I checked the carriage upper bolts and they are wider than the slots in the plate, so it got me thinking, is it mounting plate supposed to sit flush at all?

That's odd. It's a perfect fit on my carriage, and others. Could you manage a quick drawing with dimensions? I'm starting to wonder if Creality have changed the carriage design.

When you say the upper carriage bolts, do you mean the ones that secure the rollers?

The carriage bolts are 9.3mm wide and the hotend ones are 4.5mm deep.

Right. both my X carriages are 3.5mm on the height of the hotend lugs, but I've made a mistake on the dimension of the holes to clear the upper roller bolts. I'll make some changes.
I've also just printed a test piece for the M3 nut slots and they fit fine. They're exactly the size drawn. I wonder what's a good compromise for the range of calibration on different machines?

Thanks for the prompt replies!
For the X carriage, I gather you should just make the holes wider or use a chamfered edge on the back end, that should fit all. As for the hotend lugs, I recommend making two versions, as it seems that Creality updated the design. My Ender is fairly recent, bought it from them directly in September.

Would you please put online the updated STL so I can try to print the mount this evening?

Yes, those ones, IIRC they are ~ 9.7mm wide, but don't quote me on that. I'll do proper measurements and report back.
Glad you responded, I have just loaded the STL in 3DS Max, getting ready to move some vertices around (tedious).

I really like the design. Is the hotend fan partially blocked by the ducts?

No. There's plenty of room for the low velocity feed into the hotend fan. You can pretty much completely mask the face of an axial fan as long as there is a gap of around 15% of the fan diameter.

I have installed it on my printer and have not printed yet. I would like to change a few things. None of my m3 nuts fit inside the holes, would be nice with bigger tolerances. I haven’t calibrated my petg but when I tested the extrusion width it was 0.42 when printing 0.4 so not that bad.

I printed in petg and it is flexible so the cables on the right side will push out the duct so it’s not centered. I have the cables between the 5015 fan and the bondtech so they push the fan to the right. I would suggest adding another attachment point to the base roughly at the spot where the bed leveling probe is attached. Maybe even another attachment to the other screw hole in the fan. The cable ”stick” on top maybe can have a small extrusion so a screw can be added there.

By attachment point I mean that the duct needs to be fastened to the base on the right side as well.

All the slot sizes for the nuts have already been enlarged. The original on my test print was perfect, and they've since been enlarged around 4%.
Securing the duct on the right as well is impractical due to the range of movement required to accommodate the use of Volcano hotends. Wired carefully there is sufficient space between the face of the extruder and the back of the blower for JST XH and EC2 connectors.

The M3 hex nut size on the duct won fit any of my M3 nuts. The S dimension is 5.28mm and the standard states Smin 5.32 to Smax 5.5mm. My M3 nuts are S 5.4mm , so I'll have to think of something as I don't want to print it again.
The base on the other hand is fine, It fits the M3 nut perfectly.

Update: Managed to fit the nuts buy heating them and forcing them in place. You really should consider making the hex nut holes bigger.

I'll get that sorted. On my test print they fitted perfectly.

Hangtight, could you please upload the parts it the best orientation for printing? It would be very useful!

If I can persuade Fusion to export them in the right orientation, I will. In the meantime, if you're using Cura then the 'Flat to bed' button works well on the duct once you rotate it somewhere close.

Hi Hangtight! Great design!! :-)

I too can't use it since I have a 40mm Noctua and am loath to give it up for a 30mm ... :-(
I see what you say about the clearance tho' ...

On Fusion 360 orientation - If you haven't found it it's under {Your Name} (top right) > Preferences > General > Default modeling orientation > change to Z up and you're set.

Again, well done model. Later!

The flat to bed seem to work. Thanks.

Fusion 360 has annoying default orientation. You can change the up axis. By default it's Y and it should be changed to Z.
Took me a while to figure that out.
I'll try orienting the duct after the base plate is done printing.

Great design! It's already a tight fit, but would it be possible to support a 40mm cooling fan? There wasn't room to attach a 30 to 40mm adapter.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080548 accommodates a 40mm fan. I just don't like how the bondtech mounts.

Bondtech BMG + E3D V6 print head for Creality CR-10(S)

I didn't consider it because I've never come across a situation where a 40mm fan was required. The problem would be fitting it under the extruder, as it would have to nearly touch the build plate!

A LOT of people do use 40mm fans, mainly to mount quieter options like the Noctuas. The ability to do so is one of my criteria for selecting my setup.

In which case a direct drive V6 may not be the best choice, as fitting anything other than a 30mm fan under the extruder is going to be an extremely difficult packaging exercise.

On the previous rev I added support inside the fan opening and it came out fine with PETG. I didn't use support in the large hole or the slot. I got minimal sag in the slot and the hole was a bit rough but fit fine. I used a raft on the duct because of the minimal contact patch. I found the holes for the threaded spacers didn't allow quite enough space to fully clamp the mount to the plate when you tighten them fully. Looking forward to printing the new ones in Ryno. So far my Ender prints PETG better than PLA :-. Maybe I can finally post a Make soon.

Which holes did you have a problem with? Do you mean the blind holes in the Creality X carriage the heat sink would normally bolt to?

I just use a 5mm brim for adhesion rather than a raft with no issues at all.

Maybe I'll try a brim this time. Yes, the blind holes. It's possible I just don't have short enough screws on hand and they bottom out. My really short ones are counter sunk.

Can you make an EZABL mount for it? Should be pretty simple as its just a hollow ring

It's on my list. ;)

Thanks for keeping the bed sensor mount separate. What do you consider ideal duct to bed clearance above the nozzle tip?

About 1—1.5mm above the nozzle tip works.

If I adjust your current rev as high as it will go it's not quite enough clearance above the nozzle. I test fit everything tonight.

You can always leave the top bolt out, as it'll still clamp up tight. I've left a bit more vertical height adjustment in the new revision, which is test printing now.

Just as a hint for S3D user: I had to rotate the duct by 142.50° to get the perfect print orientation without support, as shown in the image

Thanks, that could save a lot of headaches. Maybe he can make that the default orientation?

I want to try and get this to print in my new Matterhackers glass reinforced nylon. Especially the fan duct.

edit: The NylonG is more brittle than PETG. But good to higher temperatures. I think maybe Matterhackers Ryno may be the best choice in my inventory. It's a higher temp PETG basically.