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heatvent

Hypercube Evolution Anet A8 Remix

by heatvent Dec 8, 2018
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So the frame, the x, y and z axis and motors, rods, threaded rods, etc. are all assembled. Next will be the build plate and start wiring the electronics. This part will probably take a while to keep it neat and I need to test / tune the new board with the Anet motors. I have already went through and configured Marlin 1.1.9 on a first pass basis. I am guessing I will need to do some tweaking and troubleshooting to get things working correctly.

Build challenges / tips:

Here are some tips from doing this build. I can't say it's an easy build, there seems to be a number of places where getting a bolt in is very tight.

  1. There is a lot of excess plastic in the brass inserts since the holes in the plastic are 4.7mm and the insert is 5mm. Using a M3 tap to clean out is almost a must. In some cases, if you have a longer screw that can be inserted from the other side you can thread it in a couple of threads and then heat/insert which will prevent the plastic from backflowing into the brass insert threads.

  2. The upper Z rod mounts are almost impossible to get at with a normal 3mm hex wrench because the hole/recess is so deep and the y axis is just above. I would mount the upper mounts to the crossmember before installing the top member of the frame when doing frame assembly. This way you can have open access to the mounting screw. I ended up cutting the long end of the Anet hex wrench so it would clear the Y rod and then use pliers for leverage to tighten.

  3. The clamp for the Y rod on the idler side is under the pulleys so you have to clamp before installing pulleys. I would suggest mounting the xy idlers to he Y rods and securing before putting the assembly into the frame. I would also complete putting in the pulleys before inserting into the frame as this is fairly fiddley work.

  4. The optical flags need to be black or white. I make mine red and unfortunately had to take things apart to switch to black for X and Y.

  5. Many of the parts are to VERY TIGHT tolerances. I had to drill out holes in a number of spots. For example, if there is an M3 bolt going through a printed piece to a brass insert, the hole for the bolt is typically 3mm. I would normally do the hole at 3.5mm so the bolt slides through to the brass insert rather than thread the bolt through plastic

  6. This is a difficult build basically from scratch. If you are used to building your Anet, this is 10x more difficult and relies on a lot of troubleshooting vs. everything being cut to length, configured and setup. This is not a 4 hour build (I probably spent 24 hours or more assembling and I am still not done with wiring and final touches). With that said, at the end you have a much more capable printer than the A8.

Construction has begun and the AM8 is in pieces. I ran into a couple of small snags. First, I had the wrong XY idlers printed .. they were the ones from the Anet Evolution so made for 2020 and M5 bolts. The seem like they will work I had to drill out the M6 hole. This will probably be my first print if I ever finish.

The other issue is the Z rod mounts from dbrandao's design are TIGHT. Couldn't even tap them in with a hammer and it was scraping off some of the plastic. I updated the files on this Thing to have 8.4mm holes for a little clearance.

The L brackets came in so construction has begun. I have the basic frame assembled and have started prepping other things. I realized I needed some additional bolts so I have these orderd. I also updated the thing description to detail out the bolts needed. I had an assortment kit of M3 screws but it only went up to 20mm in length. You need a number of 25mm and some 30mm screws which is what I need to get. The big question is when to start tearing down the Anet. You really can't get far without doing so as you need the rods, bearings, etc. to start assembling beyond the frame. Have to admit that I am a bit nervous about this part and will probably spend some additional time mocking up and recounting parts as I don't want to get into the middle of the build and find out I need some random item.

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Any idea when you'll get to test this? Looks promising.
Personally, i'd have used the smooth rods you're using for the X axis, for the Y axis instead, and bought 1 linear rail + carriage for the X axis instead of 2 extra smooth rods with the LMU bearings.

Thanks for your post. I'm getting close on having all the parts. The printed parts are done. I have most of the components from China but the one hangup is the 3030 L corner brackets. I ordered them late Jan and they didn't ship until late Feb so I am hopeful they get here in the next week or so. Once I have them, I can start putting the frame together and bolting on the various components. I am going to try and build as much as possible without taking apart the AM8 just in fear of not having a printer to make / adjust a part. With that said, I am looking forward to at least getting started rather than just collecting pieces. Also, this is really a Hypercube with the exception that I used 8mm on the Z axis. So I don't see why this would be any different except for I bought a 3030 frame based on the Anet A8 rod sizes. Worst case scenario is I have to do some cutting of the frame or linear rod to get things to work.

I will update as I make progress.

Sure, i just mean, many people are upgrading their hypercubes to linear rails as well, since they've come down in price considerably and are superior to linear rods. But it's just what i would have done, since there are two rods "missing". My main concern would be to make it the best possible printer for the price, not to stay true to one or the other design. I do like your work. I'll follow it for sure. If i decide to make it, that's probably the only change i'll make. Thanks!
Good luck!

Not sure the thought really crossed my mind ... just not familiar with linear rails. Would you have a link for the one you are using? Thanks!

Almost everything printed at this point. The first parts from China trickled in so hopefully I can at least start building the frame out and making sure things work.

I did some more organizing of what needs to be printed. I am going to start printing parts over the next week or so as I wait for pieces to arrive from China. Once I get the parts from China, I will start assembling but it may take a while as I am going to take my time. I need to make sure this is going to be a success because I will need to disassemble my AM8 to build they Hypercube. I want to be certain I have printed all parts and they will fit properly since I don't have another 3D printer. I really don't want to have to reassemble an AM8 to print something I forgot or didn't do correctly.

OK, so I picked up the aluminum extrusions today. I went with 515mm height which should be enough. This project is going to take a while. I had ordered some of the parts but need a few things which will take some time to get. I also had originally started with the Anet Evolution and need to reprint many of the parts. There are probably some I still need to remix between the Evolution and Anet Evolution or modify myself. Will keep progress posted.

Have you built this? I like how you used 3030 extrusions as well as getting a second set of smooth rods for the Y axis along with the ability to go to a 300 x 300 build plate. I was going to go through and build up a model with extrusions, but it looks like you've already done it.

Any progress/completed pictures?

Sorry, not yet. I have been swamped and not able to spend time on this so still conceptual at this point. I also need to orders some things off the BOM to build and there may be a part or two that needs to be adapted from the Hypercube or the Anet Evolution still. I will probably start going back tot this soon. The dimensions of the 3030 frame I know are good and should work, although I would proably go with 515mm tall Z extrusions vs the 510mm to give a little more clearance on the bottom and wiggle room if you need to move anything for better clearance.

The dimensions of the bed frame will depend on the actual hole pattern of the bed you choose to put on. By default, the Hypercube calculator tries to put the bed brackets on the outside of the bed frame. I think if you play around with the dimensions manually, you could come up with a wider frame that with the bed brackets on the inside for the Anet stock heated bed hole pattern and is upgradable to a larger bed if the correct sized brackets are mounted on the outside of the bed frame. I have been toying with this and need to finish as I plan to currently use the Anet bed but don't want to buy new extrusions if I want to upgrade.

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