Aero "Evolve" for Tevo Tornado,Flash/ Creality CR10,s,Ender3/ Prusa Mk3

by dpetsel Feb 21, 2019
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Love this mount! I recently started using it on my CR10 and it's fantastic.
To echo another commenter above, I was wondering if you could add an option for a second 5015 blower fan?
I often have to print things without supports due to internal structures and having as much airflow as possible is a must.


Hallo Dave i like your design. Can you make a modified version from the mk3 version to fit with a standard prusa i3 carriage. I have a P3Steel and the standart mk3 version doesnt fit.
Best regards Andre.

will this work on the anycubic chiron ?

Do you lose any axis distance? I've seen other models for the Titan Aero say that they lose some distance for the Y axis

Is this running well for people? I have mine installed and I think at the right height but I am getting such poor cooling even 100% at I am about to give up on this mount. Previous mounts with non aero e3dv6 gave me much much better performance.
Nozzle to duct is about 3mm

The Evolve is about 30% more airflow than the standard Petsfang.
A couple of things to check.
Verify there are no supports/obstructions in your duct.
Verify the fan is running with the correct polarity. You can take the fan off the duct and run it to make sure it is pushing enough air.

Thanks for the reply! The fan is most definitely working and in general it seems like the duct is doing what it should. I can feel an air stream coming out from both sides, meeting in the middle and blow back and down. That's why I am confused as to why I'm getting such poor cooling. For example trying to print a simple benchy the corners and bow start curling up almost immediately. Here is a (bad) photo of the nozzle .

Is far as I could tell the duct is free of obstructions.

I trying to use this mount on CR10S. Followed the printing instructions, it printed nice. I've tried with E3D and Triangle Lab clone. Went together easy. Using Volcano Heat block/Nozzle. I have parts as high as possible. when I turn on the fan, even at 10% , hot end drops temp. Sooner or later get thermal run away. with fan off, everything is fine. I can't move it up any more.

Try a silicone sock to insulate the heat block?

Absolutely need a silicone sock on your heat block.

I have put socks on it, it didn't help at all.... Other mounts never needed it.
What did to help make it work. Was used file, filed a lot plastic around for 4 screw holes and around the circle.
I was able to push it up high enough so it would stop blowing on hotend as much. After printing few things. The cooling with this design is horrible. I went back to old mount. And No, I can't make anything better, just saying my experience with this one.

Sorry you aren't getting good results with it.

Could you make a version to fit the mount plate for the Ender 5? I looked at making a remix, but it had too many facets for fusion 360 and my skills are quite amateur at best.

Just got done installing this and a new genuine titan aero extruder on my ender 3. Few points worth noting..

  1. Due to the thickness of the mount plate between the stepper motor and extruder body there isn't enough room to use the anti vibration washer that e3d give you for the bolt which holds the bearings also leaves all bolts hardly in but hopefully enough....I will repost if it causes me an issue.

  2. The additional y offset of the nozzle puts the it off the edge of the bed when homing and caused my EZABL to fail to probe as was of the edge of the bed. Had to adjust home position to Y-23 and bed size to x232 y225 to stop the motors pushing past the edge of movement.

  3. Will also if you intend to use all printable area you will most likely need to adjust z axis size as the cable bracket holds cables where they will foul on the top bar of frame

Looking good and first test prints are very positive, hardly ran through its paces yet though.

Thanks for this

Huh :) I made remix for Ender 5, and even almost finished printing, when I realised that for Ender 5 it is way too large and will reduce seriously printable area :(

Relocate the front rail to a lower position and you'll have all the printable area back. Better yet, purchase a 2040 rail and secure it at multiple points.

Any chance you can post your remix? I'd really like to use this design.

Every one of my BLtouches (triangle Labs and authentic) cant reach far enough down when using a volcano. The BL touch mount slots need to allow about 2mm more downward adjustment... OR... as stated by many below, the bolt holes for the stepper motor need to allow more adjustment upwards.

any chance of making one for the AM8 ?

Comments deleted.

i wish you also added a y endstop mod for this mount. that would be amazing.

Like some other posts here, it doesn't seem possible to get more than ~2mm of clearance for the ducts by the time the nozzle hits the build plate. The stepper motor bottoms out on the mount preventing the nozzle from going any lower. Using the Trianglelab titan aero.

I dont have an answer to your question, but if you swap to a volcano nozzle this will fit that ;)

Also, your heater cartridge shouldnt be sticking out like that...

Love this model, but the whole no-derivitives thing made it so that I cannot remix this to work with a Titan Aqua. I understand that the "no-derivatives" was set in the sperit of prevenging people from stealing credit for your HVAC design, removing your logo, or alike.

In the current titan aqua mount model I have I used a negative of your mounting bracket to imprint the pattern into a square block. If this is unacceptable to you, I can take my model down.

However if you find it acceptable for me to make this model work with a titan aqua, it would be a lot easier if I had the cad files. Otherwise I will be stuck hacking it as I have: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3708643

CR10/Tevo Tornado/Ender 3 Titan Aqua

would printing this in all resin work? also will this work for the ender3

Yes, of course it will. But keep in mind, resin is much less durable. I would recommend using "high strength" resign which is about as strong as PLA, but is more resistant to heat if I remember correctly.

Hello, is there any way you can add the quick mount lug from the below Thing to the mounting portion. I switch between a laser and hot end but would like for it to use the existing quick mount design for the Tevo Tornado. I could not find your step file listed to add it myself. I have attached a couple of pictures of the make and the mount I am talking about along with files linking it below.

Quickmount Setup: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3369444

Quickmount Lug STEP file: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:5932737

Quickmount Carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:6557958

Quick tool change for Creality CR-10 / Ender series

I use this on my CR10S, with the EZABL probe, and recently purchased the 'Pro' version of said probe. It has the sensitivity adjustment on the side of the barrel. I had to redesign the abl mount to make the adjustment screw accessible, but due to the license I can't post it. I'm going to post a picture of what I did, it should work with the standard v6 heater block (tested + works), and the volcano block (haven't tested yet).

Reply to this reply with a copy of your STL file for the ABL Pro mount and I will add it to the list of parts.

Here it is. It SHOULD work with the Volcano but I haven't tested it. Works great with the regular v6 hot end parts though. Getting really good

I am also having the issue as others that the nozzle is tol high. I really like this mount but the cooling is pretty poor right now. The distance between the duct and nozzle is only a about 1.5mm at most. This is with a triangle labs clone titan and geniue are heat sink.
The motor bottoms out long before it gets low enough. I am considering grinding it down

anybody recommend a good filament holder for the cr10s in the process of printing this so i can convert to direct drive

So I’ve been using this for a few weeks now and I absolutely love it. I have it set up with a volcano. I’m wondering if it would be possible to get a version of this that can use 2 5015 fans? I’m printing some pretty thicc diameters and for vases it would be awesome to have more cooling power.

Any chance of getting a version without the words on the front? Otherwise, looking forward to using this on my printer.

use tinkercad to remove the front face. No effect on the performance

I really like this mount! I used a Triangle Labs Titan Aero Clone and mounted it to an Ender 3. The only issue I have is that the left side of the mount where the fan duct is, touches the heat block. I didn't see anyone else commenting here on this so I thought I'd mention it. I am not sure how difficult it would be to extend the left hand side, or better yet, just center it a bit. Everything else fits perfectly. Despite the corner of the fan touching the heat block, I am still able to print PLA just fine. I'm afraid to go any higher temp though.

You need to rotate the hot end 90 degrees. This will center the heat lock and allow the wires to exit right, lining up with the upper wire stain.

Thanks- if I rotate it 90 degrees won’t it be a bit loose? Right now I have it as tight as it will go so I would have to back it off. But that makes sense and should fix the heat block touching the mount.

I printed you mount for and ender3 but I'm searching for an implementation of arm for connecting dc42 smart ir probe sensor, did you ever implement it?

The saga continues...on my third print, I got clicking from the Aero. Given how tight things are aligning and configuring the Aero into the Evolve duct, I figure I must have had the gears out of alignment. No. Perfect.
It seems my 5015 may be way too powerful and 100% cooling may need to scale back considerably. I had a filament jam from the heat break on down into the nozzle. (I had a silicone cover on the hot end as well)
Having said that...you might want to test your fan after install and see how forceful that air flow is onto the bed/hot end.

Since we have an HVAC Engineer in our design group, our cooling solutions tend to be very efficient. 30% fan is typically enough for overhangs to 55 degrees. Up to 80% fan for extreme overhangs to 85 degrees. We never go above 80%.

Thanks for the reply!
What retraction settings worked best for you?

PETG .8mm retraction @ 50mm/s.
PLA .8-1.2mm @50mm/s

I also have my machines really dialed in dimenionally.
I use no Z hop

Good to know I used E3D's "suggested" settings and clogged up using 30 mm/s I'm at 45 now and will up it a tad more
I'm hopeful you can refine this design some more...just getting those screws into the carriage was...wow....made you wish you had tiny hands!

It would be great, if there's a version for a titan aero that fits to i3 rework x-carriage mount holes (4 holes, two rows, 23mm distance). I created one, but I'm not allowed to share :)

Second this! I wanted to do this as well as add a mount for bltouch

Just a couple of things.

  1. Did you give any thought to making this in two parts? One part the main bracket that connects to the carriage, and the second part would be the fan shroud. That would make installation easier.
  2. I watched your video about setting the fan duct height. You set it 4mm above the nozzle tip (a thickness of ptfe tubing). I cannot get the duct any higher than about 2mm above the nozzle tip, and the stepper motor is bottomed out in the bracket.
  3. In your video where you show how to set the duct height, it seems like you do not take into account that one screw in the Aero that is inside of the heatsink (lower right corner as you look in towards the stepper). Do you leave that one out, or just loose, or ???

We leave the screw behind the heat sink neck just loose enough to move the assembly on the mounting plate.

What about the issue of the duct height? Did you solve this?

Ok so I got this installed on my CR-10S and this was definitely a struggle. Here's a few pointers that might help others (and David, to improve your description/documentation)
1) Assembly order is very important. Get the mount installed first. Securing the screws is a struggle...there's no easy way to get those screws into where the cover/fan shroud used to be. The screws the stock hotend were on are going to be fun too. I couldn't fit a washer on the left side hole but did the right. 5-6 mm screws. I printed my Evolve in ColorFabb nGen.
2) Once you have the E3D Titan Areo together, getting it into the Evolve is an exercise in finger Olympics! It's hard to get the hot end to fit into the duct work so be prepared to left the stepper/pancake motor up along with the Aero structure. The filament guide might flop around during this step, as you try to put those two halves together. Once it's in and ready to screw together, take a hearty sip from your malt beverage.
3) Be aware of where you route your wires and wire tie them...you don't want to cover up the geared knob for manually feeding filament!
4) Dave shows a video where, with the 4 long screws loose he could move the duct up and down (with the nozzle touching the bed) I couldn't...but I was spaced up high enough and a bowden tube fit snug between the duct and bed.
5) If you use an 18 mm EZABL like I used, the lock washers used to secure them to the mount will touch the Aero fan. Remove! (Not sure about the 12 mm one)
6) If you've never used an Aero, I found a retraction distance of 0.80 and a retraction speed of 30 mm/s worked great...these are the suggested settings from E3D
7) Once you have everything together, heat the hot end, tighten it up, power off to cool...and get the silicone sock on. I almost forgot!
8) Depending on your firmware, you might have to upgrade to get the 5015 fan to kick on. I'm using the TH3D Unified Firmware and they have a #define fan_fix you can uncomment that could help (Did for me)
9) Like any hot end change, do a PID Autotune to calibrate the hot end temperature. Do a extrusion multiplier test so you can fine tune your S3D profile (or Cura, etc). Then do a retraction test print, just to make sure your settings are working. Every filament is a bit different on the sweet spot/temp etc
10) Big hassle here...the Evolve is a large duct and as such, if you are using binder clips to hold your bed surface down, it can crash into those and not get the probe all the way down. You can try relocating them so pay attention to where the duct moves and adjust any problem areas.
Hope this helps!

What size blower does this use for part cooling? If you don't have the specs handy, what printer does this blower come on?

5015 blower fan
If you have a CR-10/CR-10S be sure to get 12v
Tevo Tornado is 24v
Ball bearing versions tend to be better

Can you share what mount is compatible with the MK3 STL file ?

This one is for the MK3, Prusa_AERO_2.5.19

I'm sorry I believe my question was confusing, what carriage mount for the MK3 is compatible with your design?
Thanks for the quick response

No matter how I adjust the mount, the duct is barely above the nozzle. I also have to grind the mounting plate down for the screws to grip from the extruder body through the mount to the motor.

Any pics of your installation?
We have tested this mount with the genuine E3D Aero and 2 different clones (Trianglelabs and TH3D Tough Extruder clones) and was able to get the 3-5mm clearance from the build plate. As far as you having to grind down the plate. The plate is 2mm thick which is the recommended thickness from E3d and the dimension of the plate they send with their extruders.
Maybe you have an over extrusion issue?

Anyone else having an issue where the fan duct is lower on the right side after mounting?

This looks fantastic! What material do you recommend using? Will ABS work well for this?

It is very easy to print. If you are going to print ABS or Nylon in an enclosure you probably will want to print this in ABS. I don't print in an enclosure so I just used PETG for mine.

Great design! Thanks for putting a lot of effort in this mod...

However, there is one small feature that needs to be corrected: the top slot for the M4 nut to hold the fan in place doesn't fit a M4 nut (too small). A M3 nut fits perfectly but the hole is intended for a M4 bolt.

I actually designed it that way.
You have the option to use a 3mm nut and a 3mm screw with a washer or use a 4mm screw and just tap the plastic. I personally have been using 3mm nut, screws with washers.

I've printed the pieces in Colorfabb nGen so it should handle the temps OK I just received my E3D Genuine Titan Aeros, I would like to upgrade a CR-10S and Tevo Tornado. I'm perhaps missing the obvious here but is there a tutorial/instructions/video on the assembly order and how this attaches to the aluminum carriage? THANK YOU! =)

Still hoping for a response...should the duct get mounted first, then the Aero?

Yes. Mount the Evolve to the back plate first and then mount the Aero to it. Next, adjust the height and tighten the Aero into the final position.


Hi Dave...I made some progress. Installing this on a CR-10S tonight. It looks where the original fan house was, M3 8mm screws with washers work. What about where the stock extruder was? Seems to want a shallower screw than I have on hand (maybe a 5mm?)

I see the right side openings are for a square nut and installing the EZABL probe / mount

Getting closer!

Comments deleted.

Thanks for the design but I figured out that the position of the BL Touch mount is really not great.
It is just in front of the fan and it its impossible to use a 40x40x20 fan :/

You are correct. The Aero Evolve is designed around the stock E3D Aero and Aero clones. The offset for the BLTouch is set to accommodate the factory specs for a 40x10 axial.

sorry my English is bad,
Does this design support for Bondtech + E3DV6?
thank you

It does not support anything but the E3D Titan Aero and Aero clones.

i wish we could mount it directly to mgn12h linear rail' block.

that's also why im here lol, looking to see if anyone has asked.

What would I have to do to use the Titan Aero Mirrored Version for this? I have one laying around already from a dual setup I no longer use.

None of the locations are close for the mirrored Titan. It will not work with the Evolve.

Is there a BOM for what screws, size and nuts to assemble this?

From what I can see the i3 version already has a probe holder built in the model. Any chance of an updated version to use with bltouch?

I second this!! The design looks great and the printer I want to use this on has a BLTouch.

I understand the fan needs to be changed from the stock one (Ender 3), would you be able to provide a model or a link? Thanks David.

I'm curious what you are using for the acceleration and jerk settings? I love the E3D Titan Aero and seen a few attempts to replace the stock CR-10/Tevo Tornado hotends to one....but there seems to be some complications due to the heavier/larger hot end THANKS!

Thus far I am using stock jerk and acceleration settings on all my platforms. I have not seen and adverse affects in the prints. I typically print at 60-70mm/s. I also installed dual mechanical Z on all my machines. (Cr10, Tornado, Flash and Ender 3's)

Hate to ask but is there any chance for a volcano version? Looks amazing man keep up the greate work.

They all will accept the Volcano heat block.

Damnit. Looks like we have some printing to do.

what files do i print for ender 3?


what about the 24 volt fan that would be needed?

Yes. This is an advanced mod and will require a change out of the stock fan.

I was thinkin' that I had lost my mind, and missed a new design somehow after seeing the YouTube videos...

Nice work!

Bravo! You are the gold standard for 3D Printer cooling systems! You keep raising the bar for me to do better. Congrats on an elegant design!