Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Prusa MK3 MMU2 Ikea Lack table enclosure

by ag1le Dec 16, 2018
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The Amazon link for the magnets does not seem to work. What is the size of the magnets or another Amazon link for the desired magnets.

Can you share dimensions for the plexi? I'd prefer to buy mine pre-cut if possible. I've finished assembling the rest of the enclosure and it looks great so far. Thanks!

The "thingies" files dated 4/7/19 do not fit on a standard Prusa I3 platform. Do you happen to have smaller subfiles that could be rotated to fit, or something of the sort?

I built the LACK enclosure with the plexi glass, can I use it with this design?

@greenshadowmaker - did you use the cone shaped parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:5759008 ? This raises the legs a bit - the doors move fine. Are you talking about the vertical notch in this part: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/3b/fb/a4/06/b0/5be40e2870792b393ed4a03a49a582b3_preview_featured.jpg or this one https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/56/2b/25/89/66/957a65d6961ae7b639ff0985a1b25604_preview_featured.jpg?

In the video, I'm guessing the side magnet parts are glued together?

Yes - side magnet parts are glued together, including the little magnets I bought from Amazon. If you need shorter side magnet parts I have 233 mm long version as well.

I did use the cone: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:5759008 The square part is lined up with the corners.

I was wondering about the slot is top to bottom red arrow on screenshot here.

It's the bottom where the bottom door holder come together is just a tiny bit too narrow? (photo)

One of the side parts with wire, fits on top, but not on the bottom of the same side Not remembering if it's X or Y are they the same? or which is shorter?

I'm liking how it's coming together Thanks!!

The thingies Door mounts are closing against each other pretty snug, , may be a few mm's too long? Is it for a pressed close fit? not sure what the vertical notch is for.

In the video, I'm guessing the side magnet parts are glued together?

You are right....I used the mounting plates (with the cones ) from previous version. They are 100% compatible with Thingies files. It is actually a pretty good feature to be able to lift off the whole enclosure when needed.

Thingies files don't include any mounting plates (cone things under the legs), did you screw your corners directly to the base? I do like the lift off idea, or is it not really that practical?

sorry but it is already assembled. I have posted all the photos that I took when putting this together. I hope you can figure it out based on the existing photos.

what files do i need to print to get a single enclosure like yours?

The files starting with "Thingies..." - this is the latest and greatest version that is also shown on the video clip.

Thank you. any chance you can post photos of how to put this together?

ag1le you have a private message from me ;-)

I took the thingies down hinge and printed just the front left. Does it need support? I dont seem to have a hinge connection at all, how’s the hinge going to work? The front page has a shaft part, does it not go with thingies?

I looked at the model again, not just the part that finished, I see the hole for the metal shaft now. Makes more sense. I guess I try to cut the unsupported area to expose the good area for the shaft above the mess. Hopefully I won't have to reprint this part.

I haven't printed anything yet that needed me to generate support yet.

What are the recommended print settings?

I just used the default settings for PETG in Prusa MK3 MMU2 Slic3r.

Any updates on this? Some info on the side walls would be great as well. Anyone else looking at using this should consider the MMU2s updates. Perhaps leave off the spool and filament grommets?

See update from today.

Has anybody tested this for size on the Anet A8?

Hello, which screws are used for the lower and upper corner pieces? 6mm Spax fits into the holes, but they do not pull / hold in the tabletop.

I used the original IKEA screws that came with the Lack table. Be careful when tightening up - the last rounds will be difficult.

Hello, I'm a bit confused about the amount of files. What is the difference ? Which parts do I need to connect 3 tables with doors? (Prusa I3 MK3 MMU2)

It looks like you're only using 4 materials? Do you have a plan for the 5th?

I am using the original spool holders that came with the MMU2 kit. Only 4 of them will fit on the table top. To have all 5 there needs to be some other kind of spool holder that takes less horizontal space.

What are the filament spool holders / mechanisms you have on there? Do you find that they work with the MMU retraction just fine?

I am using the spool holders that came with the MMU2 package. They work fine, and MMU retraction works. It took quite a while to calibrate everything correctly so please follow the MMU2 manual carefully when calibrating the unit.

That looks great! When you have trouble looking at the filament (how it is loaded) during print, maybe this "mirror mount" I designed might work for you as well: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3339816

Now I can easily load new filament manually (so no printer interaction) to achieve more then 5 colors when colors are significantly apart in the "Z" direction. Just load a new color when you are sure the print is done for the first color and overlook the manual loading in the mirror.

MMU2 filament load inspection through mirror under Lack table as enclosure
by Ruedli

This is a cool idea...I have just used a finger to test when the filament has been loaded through the MMU2 so far. When I can feel the tip of the filament coming through I retract it a bit. With your mirror this becomes easier.

Glad you like it, I used the finger method as well, but reaching under the table with one hand and above the table feeding filament was a bit fiddly. This became much more comfortable using the mirrors.

Nice work and very clean. How much additional height did you add from the original Lack Enclosure? Most importantly how is it working for you?

These parts add 187 mm height on top of regular Lack leg length. I did not measure the original Prusa lack enclosure parts. This enclosure works for me fine, I have been using Prusa MK3 MMU2 almost every day.

I'm looking at putting this together, but I've added a Concrete paver for some sound reduction.

I don't have the MMU2 yet.. is there enough room with this design for both? It adds about 4cm to the height. Or do I need to add height to your parts somehow


There is about 11 cm space above the top of the MMU2 unit so your concrete paver should fit in the cabinet.

Use the double sided screws to attach the printed pieces to the underside of the table. (Thanks for the clarification) Do you have any pictures of how you installed the quick connectors?

I uploaded two photos (one underneath the upper table and another from the top). They show how I have installed the connectors. I hope this helps...

What’s the new plexiglass height with these extensions? I assume width and thickness are unchanged from the non-MMU MK3 Lack enclosure. Preparing to build my enclosure, and may future-proof for an MMU upgrade in the future.

I have not ordered or measured the plexi glass yet. This enclosure helps to organize the filament spools and since I am not using ABS (just PLA and PETG so far) I haven't really needed the plexi.


this project would fit perfect for me. The only problem i have, is to print the parts with the hinges. It wouldn't be a problem, but the parts in the stl-file are to far from each other. Could you provide a file where they are closer?

Thank you very much.

See updated files that have parts close to each other...

What apps do you have to print with? Most have the ability to cut or split the objects, which then would allow you to recenter and arrange for your print-bed.

Oh great, thank you.

Does that Slic3r also work for Anet A8?

Oh, thank you. I am not that expirienced. I use Cura and i ll look, if i can do that.