Hero Me E3D V6 Cooling - CR-10, Ender 3, & clones

by mediaman Dec 23, 2018
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Hi, Thanks for all the designs! Question Hero_Me_OEM_4010_duct_Gen2f is the same as for the stock hotend? I just want to know if I do not need to print it if I get a e3d v6.

Looks to be a wonderful design. I'm getting ready to print this in petg, for installation on my CR-10S.
I want to install a BlTouch, E3D V6 hotend, the OEM 40mm fan, and a 5015 fan.

Am I correct in that these are the files I will need? There is a lot to choose from and I want to be sure before wasting filament.


Thank you for your time.

Mediaman, could You please update us with current status of work on Hero Me new version?

I am back from my business trip. I will be working on the new version (Gen3) with my two collaborators over the next couple weeks (we are spread across two continents) to get things completed. So I am targeting the second half of June. Thanks for your patience.

Mediaman, thanks for the info. I will wait for Gen3 (Ender 3 dual 4020).

Great creation! Thank you!

Regarding recommended suppport (touching build plate only) what do you recommend in regards to:

  • Overhang Angle
  • Pattern
  • Density
  • Support Horizontal Expansion
  • Infill Layer Thickness

THanks for choosing the Hero Me Gen2! Infill 45%, Pattern: Grid, Overhang angle: 65deg, Density???, others ???

I'm having all sorts of problems getting the heat sink in between the base pieces without breaking the base pieces. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Try printing the Base 2 and possibly the Base 1 parts at a 90 degree rotation from the default. It is a tight fit. Others have reported that printing at this alternate rotation gives strength needed to the top part to hand the 'snap' together fit that is needed to hold the hot-end tight.

Does this fit an ender5?

There is not yet an Ender 5 version for the E3D V6 hot-end. There is an Ender 5 compatible Hero Me Gen2 system for the Creality OEM and Micro Swiss hot-ends here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917

Hero Me Gen2 - OEM & 5015 Fans - Ender 3, CR-10

Sorry, no. I do not have a Trianglelab (Bondtech) style direct drive to test or design against.

For someone upgrading a stock Ender 3 hotend to E3D v6 and already printed the whole shebang, is the "Base 1" and "Base 2" the only files I need to print from here? I'm using the single 5020 duct which isn't available in this remix.

Yes, you are correct. With the exception of the cooling ducts for the E3D Volcano hot-end, all the other cooling ducts are interchangeable across the Hero Me Gen2 bases. The Volcano versions have longer mount pegs to compensate for the extra tall Volcano hot-end.

i wish some stuff had its own folder. for example one that says STOCK ender3/cr-10 and then extra parts in something else.

BUT HOLY CRAP good work on everything man you are the best.

Thanks! Yep, I wish Thingiverse allowed for subfolders.

Hey Mediaman, first of all thanks for the hard and great work!

Just printed me a Hero Me set for my ender3 with E3D v6 hotend + BL touch + Dual 5015 fans and it came out quite perfect, however, it seems that my 5015 fans are just a bit (+/- 1mm) to thick for the "Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen2g.stl" I printed and it cracked the wall on one side when I forced it in. See added pictures for clarification.

So I wanted to adjust it and move the walls 1mm on both sides, so I could print it again. I found the files on Thinkercad, however, I was unable to (easily) edit it in there and sending it over to fusion 360 (my preferred CAD program) threw out an error, unfortunately.

I guess I could try editing it in the STL format, but this is quite difficult. So I was wondering if you are able to maybe share it in an editable CAD format like STEP or similar, or maybe point me in the right the direction for how to edit that in Thinkercad (when I tried to edit it, I had to ungroup it like 10 times before I could edit anything and by then some things seemed broken, but that's probably because I am not used to modeling in Thinkercad).

Also, while checking the comments, I saw you already have a new revision ("Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen2h.stl") available, but it seems the dimensions for the place where you insert the fans hasn't changed, so it will probably have the same problem for me. If possible however I would definitely like to work with this newer version.

Best Regards!

Hmm, they just don't make these fans standard from mfgr. to mfgr. when it comes to dimensions. This is the first time since I started these remixes 9 months ago that someone has reported the slots to be too narrow for their particular 5015 fans. Unfortunately all the files were done in TinkerCAD, so there are no STEP files. I am having the key parts recreated from scratch in F360 so that the tolerances are tighter and STEP files can be made available when that is complete (sometime in June). I will see that we create versions with 0.8mm added to the width for the variances in fans.

Yea these were some cheap fans I got off Aliexpress so that might be the reason, guess most people get them off Amazon.
Unfortunately, Amazon doesn't ship to my country.

Awesome to hear the parts are being recreated in F360 though, will be patiently waiting then!
BTW let me know if you need any help modelling/remixing.

Do you have any tips on how to remove the internal supports??

No, probably impossible for the cooling ducts. Do not print supports internally, only from the build plate. This is specifically stated in the summary instructions.

Any news on E3D clamp clearance? Just printed and couldn't instert the clamp. Snapped the base trying to insert it

Should print in PETG. Some have been successful printing the base 2 (or base 1) part in a 90deg orientation to its default, in order to add strength. I am still working on a redesign to make assembly easier, yet still have the strength to hold the E3D hot-end in place with no room to budge (and throw prints off).

could you confirm that i have correct files?
It doesn't look correct.

Printed those parts (~6h with 0.12lay) and theres no way to put them together with e3d hotent between

I have printed several versions of those files and was able to put them together after a bit of clean-up sanding. Are you sure you pulled out all the support slots? Can you show a picture of where you are hitting interference?

I've been working with another designer on a revised version that properly blankets the nozzle of the E3D V6 with air. This is based on a newer duct tip design. Let me know what you think.

So I am confused. Shouldn't the air be directed right below the nozzle tip and not at it? The goal is to cool the work, not the hot end nozzle, right?

The cooling ducts for the Hero Me Gen2 when height adjusted correctly, will direct the air flow at the tip of the hot end and below. There is no way to not hit the tip. You want to be cooling the filament as soon as it has been laid down. We have done extensive CFD modeling to get this right. To adjust the height of the cooling ducts, with the nozzle touching the build plate, the bottom of the cooling duct tips should be between .1mm and .2mm above the build plate (this varies from hot-end to hot-end and with different nozzle types).

Now i'm creating brand new cooling for cr10 heavy duty ( its better for cooling e3d v6)
so i think:

  • we should stay with the sections in the outlet,
  • g-version is better but: we should mirror it and move backwards like on my screenshot

(i think h-version can have problems with cooling back side of models)

What you think about it?

Think about what? That you're working on a mod for the CR-10 Heavy Duty, good for you. Our final duct design will still have channel walls as in the older design, but tapered much better to center the air flow to most nozzle tips (differing brands/types have different X/Y placements).

Looks promising. New version coming, good news. I've dual 4020 on my desk ready to assembly on printer. I will wait for even better, updated version.

Thanks, still a couple weeks away (due to a business trip), but making progress.

Has anyone else noticed that the duct doesn't extend far enough down to blow air over the last fin and a half? I love the design and since i have a rediculous 40mm fan and used artic silver on the throat it hasn't caused a jam yet, but I am not pushing past 250 since my swap. Seams that the duct needs to be extended a few mm towards the heater block. For reference petsfang is about 3.5 mm lower from mount to bottom. Also I did modify the base to have a little more meat on the clip, that helped me feel better.

I didn' t notice that before but yes, 3-3.5 mm lower and all fins of the hotend will be "covered with air".

I'm working on a revised version that will properly blanket all the E3D V6 heat sync fins with air. The other Hero Me bases (OEM, V6 Volcano, MicroSwiss) don't have this issue.

Not trying to be nitty gritty but seems those are the most critical part to cool. On a side note, the way you split the air to be biased towards the lower third is really a good idea.

True, but I have not had complaints of heat creep or blockages with the current Hero Me Gen2 base and E3D V6 hot-ends. So the the air missing directly on the bottom fin has not been an issue (that I know of). My CR-10S with this setup works as expected.

I have definitely experienced problems with the E3D overheating behind the heat break, which means that main cooling body with fins is not being kept cool enough. I finally went with a SUNON 40x20mm at 10.8 CFMs to get successful prints for the first time. It is a huge fan that runs quite loud. It would be great if this monster fan could be replaced with a smaller fan.

any ETA on the update ? was just about to print this so , might as well wait for it .

Still a couple weeks away (due to a business trip), but making progress.

Ender 3, E3D V6 clone, dual 4020, BLTouch.

Printed parts:

I notice that:

  1. There is need to have M2 bolts and nuts to join duct with base - snap-on mounting is not so reliable
  2. There is need to adjust space between nozzle and the edge of the ventilation duct (take a look at attached pic)
  3. Putting together both base parts and hotned is quite difficult. I mean the clamp is very tightly fitted with the arm on which the ABL can be mounted.

Can anyone confirm my observations or am I missing/messing something?

  1. I used m2 bolts and the thread bit into the material, I set the hight and used which ever hole was available. I printed in PETG for reference.
  2. See above but I used a 1.2mm spacer from the angled remix works well.
  3. Put the hotend in base 1 and then base 2 can slide in @ an angle but its very tight and will test the strength of base 1. Also I printed base 1 upright to help with strength in both the Main body and the tab on the back.

I am personally still trying to figure out the Hero Me as well, but I thought I would offer my experiences in case it helps you. Here are answers:

  1. I could not get the duct to line up with the base at the correct height either. To get around this, I tacked the duct in place with medium CA glue at each of the mount points. This holds well enough, but would be possible to snap loose if needed. I have no doubt there is a better way to do this.
  2. The positioning of the ducts, as you have in you pic, would be a problem because the duct should not blow directly on the heater block or it will be fighting the heater. To position my duct, I lower the nozzle to just touching the bed, and I used pre-printed 1mm shims to raise up the duct 1mm. The idea is that the duct should be as low as possible without catching on your prints. I then used the CA glue mentioned above to set the duct height.
  3. I sanded down the cut-out to help making snapping the two halves in place easier.

Hope that helps.

Question for anyone using this variant of the Hero Me and a E3D V6: Which 40mm fan do you recommend for printing higher temperatures? In an effort to reduce noise, I went with the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX direct-wired to 12 Volts, which means it is running at its full 4500 RPM. However, the CFMs in this Hero Me design simply don't seem to be enough to keep the E3D V6 cool when printing higher temperatures. When printing even PETG, the heat break saturates, allowing melting of the filament back up in the head where the PTFE tube meets the titanium heat break, resulting in clogs. This is not supposed to happen. The whole point of the very large E3D heat sink is that temperatures at the heat sink should never reach levels high enough to melt filament. I am using the newest generation E3D V6, which includes thermal paste between the heat sink and heat break threads. None the less, temperature control at the heat sink is too high. Has any one else experienced this issue? Is there a stronger fan which might work better then the Noctua?

I have stopped using Noctua fans for this reason, while they can be quiet, they just don't push enough air. I use Sunon sealed bearing fans. I get mine from TH3DStudio.com. They have both 12v and 24v versions. Are you using my updated Base 1 part that has exhaust holes on the left and right sides of the heat sync area to let the air passing over the fins to escape easily? If not you should reprint that part.

I reprinted the base and can confirm that I do have the correct base installed. I was not sure what you meant by exhaust holes at first, but yes, there are two small oval holes on each side of the base currently installed. The Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX 40x40x10 mm is 4500 rpm, 0.6 watts, 17.9 db, and puts out 4.83 CFM. To compare, the SUNON ME40101V1-0000-A99 40x40x10 is 7000 rpm, 1.08W watts, 32 db, and puts out 8 CFM. Wow, I am really surprised that the Sunon is nearly double the airflow over the Noctua. I guess this confirms the age old adage that there is no free lunch. The trade-off is either a noise or airflow advantage, but you cannot have both. Most critically, the Noctua is not appropriate for the Hero Me with a E3D V6 because it just does not push enough air volume and the E3D overheats. Hope this information helps others who might be looking for fan options.

Thanks for the tips! I will check out Sunon fans. I don't see any vents on the base part and will re-print to be sure I have the correct part. Thank you.

As an Ender 3 owner, I decided I wanted to upgrade to an all metal hot end. I stumbled into this fan via a YouTube video and decided the combination looks great and bought the E3D V6 and printed out all the parts. It was not until I got everything wired up and installed that I noticed a problem, the head is mounted way too high off the bed. I cannot figure out where I went wrong here. As you can see from my pictures, the carriage mount is 7 mm lower than the nozzle. Any suggestions?

Are you sure you didn’t download and print the V6 Volcano version of the Hero Me Gen2 base? That base is higher on the backplate to accomidate the taller hot-end. If not, is you V6 a clone or a true E3D V6? The are some clones with non-standard heat syncs.

Wow..you nailed it. I printed the wrong base. Thank you for solving this so quickly!

Love the Hero Me with the E3D V6! I really appreciate all the work on this. Is there any chance there is a smaller mount for the EZABL Mini available? I am loosing just a little bed space due to the Full size EZABL mount which might be recoverable with a mount sized for the mini.

Sorry for the delay. Here is the mount for the EZABL Mini for use with a single fan cooling duct. The offsets are -41 X and -6 Y.

Sure, I will create a mount sized for the EZABL Mini. I might be able to get it done this weekend, but by next weekend for sure.

I really like the look of this design, but I cannot for the life of me get the Base part 1 and Part 2 to go together when the E3D is there as well. Is there some sort of trick to it that I am simply missing?

It is a tight snap fit. Some have printed the Hero Me E3D Base 2 part in a different orientation (90 deg rot) to increase the strength to make the snap fit work without breaking the Base 2 part. I am working on a revised version of the Base 1 and Base 2 parts to make the part fit without exerting pressure, but still have the strength to hold the E3D tight with no movement.

yep.. i just snapped mine - it was too much pressure even for 100% infill (amazon PLA).. Cracked along the wee holes for bolts.
Have you considered trying to do same as PetsFang? i.e add design for nut holder instead, seeing as duct already have sliding bit and can be adjusted in height?

I just decided to switch my Tronxy X5S to a V6, after reassembling the OEM for the 5th time due to clogging and oozing (the heat break really isn't very good, it has all sorts of issues). The CR-10 has a very similar hotend mount plate, so I'll be slightly modifying this design because I really like it and it looks like you did a really good job designing and testing it. Was going to go for a Petsfang but wanted something more minimal, this fit the bill.

Anyways, I really like that duct you have on your 40mil cold end fan. I've been looking for a while now and can't seem to find it. Would you mind sharing where you got it?

Let me know when you have your remix done. I would love to see it. The fan shroud for the 40mm cold end is listed in the summary, but here is the Thing link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1662879

40mm Fan Guard

Awesome, thanks! I will be sure to post my remix when I have it finished! (UPDATE: I just posted my remix! Enjoy!)

Any chance you can make an addon to use axial fan as part cooler? :)

I've added this to the backlog list of requested mods. Axial fans are both outside the original design intent (compact) and also axial fans don't generate enough static pressure to get good results at the duct tip, but will investigate it when I have completed several other mod requests (it could be several weeks before I can look at it).

This looks great, if I did not have a Titan Aero I would be printing this now.

There is not enough clearing to mount base1 and base2 to the carriage with E3Dv6 hotend. I printed two and both broke. I really like your compact design, but if I can't fit it or unmount it without breaking, I have to look for another way to mount my E3Dv6, bltouch and 5015 fan.

Is it possible to modify it so there is a little more clearing to mount all parts together?

I'm sorry you are having an issue with this. Hmm. It has and does work for me and others. There is a 'snap' to fit element to it. I will look to modify this further to make it easier to assemble. I just don't want to compromise rigidity once assembled. I am out of town for the next week, so I will be able to do this once I am back. In the mean time you could look into my other E3D V6 mount as a temporary solution: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3393889

E3D Minimalist for V6 & Volcano on Creality CR10/S Ender 3/Pro and clones

I have the same issue. I already installed 2 of them but both times it snapped somewhere and I had to glue it. Also herome is often criticized for the slim wire channel, the 2 insulated heater cables are thicker than it’s diameter, it would be nice if that would get broader. Otherwise, I love how compact it is, how accessable the fans are and the installation is so easy! Thank you for it!

I wonder how do U account for Bed Clips? Should the blowing part be higher then clips or do we sacrifice the build size and move only inside clips? :)

Honestly, I do, but I don't. I stopped using bed clips 2 years ago. You can too. Here is a link to the $8 solution: https://www.amazon.com/FBApayipa-400mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B01N9HGKR1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Thermal+Silicone+Pad&qid=1552619021&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I used this on the build plate surface for the past 2 years, and then rest the glass plate, or steel plate, or other removable print surface on this. no slip ever, yet easy to remove the build plate, and totally reversible if you choose to go to a higher end solution later, like the Flexi plate solution from Wham Bam: https://whambamsystems.com This is what I use now. Otherwise, yes, with clips you get less build area.

Wow, awesome idea!
ATM, I am using MadLabs G4 (https://madlabs.eu/en/) glued to 3mm glass and clipped on top of Ender's 3 aluminium bed. It works really great. With added silicone sheet in-between I will also not need to re-level my bed every time I wrestle with finished prints that don't want to let go! :)
Thank You & Wish U a nice sunny day!

Any chances of getting this base remixed to fit the Basaraba Direct Drive bracket? I love the Hero-Me and dont want to use any alternatives for when I upgrade to a V6 hot end. Thank you!

I will add this to my list of make requests. I don't have a Basaraba Direct Drive so it may be awhile. If I can derive the measurements needed from Teaching Tech's version of the Hero Me for the OEM hot-end I'll be able to create it. I am out next week so it will likely be 2 weeks before I can get to this.

Awesome! I’ll be on the lookout for that and I’ll just wait to install the v6 until then. THANK YOU!

I tried mounting both this and the stock version to my Ender 5 (Hero_Me_basegen2c-_Ender-5.stl and Hero_Me_E3D_Base_1_for_Ender5.stl), and I ran into some issues.

I plan on installing an EZABL at some point. Right now, I'm using the Micro-Swiss All Metal Hotend, but I'm strongly considering getting an E3D V6.

With both versions, the X-axis belt end still interfered with the left side of the base if the holes for the base lock/ABL mount were lined up with the holes on the carriage plate. (See the "_holes_lined_up" pictures for reference.)

Since the Ender 5 variants have to slide up from the bottom, it doesn't seem like the one for the stock hotend can be installed without removing the thermistor and heater cartridge or the whole heater block. I can't tell if there's enough clearance to reinstall the heater block once the base is mounted up. (I've unfortunately messed up the screws for the heater cartridge in the Micro-Swiss heater block, so removing just the cartridge isn't possible)

I also had difficulty mounting both E3D base pieces. The Base 2 piece collides with the stock hotend mounts if I install Base 2 before sliding base 1 onto the X carriage. (See base2_interference.jpg) Once I slid Base 1 far enough up, I was able to slip Base 2 in the top, but it doesn't look like there's enough clearance to do that if you have the E3D V6 hotend in place (I don't have one yet, so I'm not able to try it with the hot end in place) Aside from the collision problems with the stock hotend posts, it looks like adding a chamfer to the back right edge of Base 2 may create enough clearance.

The EZABL mount collides with the X axis belt (see ezabl_interference.jpeg) Note that with that photo, I had Base 1 slid up as far as it could go to allow the belt in to clear the notch in the base (see belt_cleared_holes_blocked.jpg). Unfortunately, with it up that high, the holes in the base no longer line up with the holes on the X carriage. The screw head for the top right roller also collides with Base 2 with Base 1 slid up that high.

I also noticed that the E3D Base 1 T slot was tighter than the Stock Base 1. This might have been due to print settings, since I printed the E3D base with slightly different print settings than the Stock Base.

Thank you for the photos, the details, and your time to document and report back to me. I will review in detail and plan out an update that I may be able to complete this weekend.

I'm going to be re-printing this file later with different geometry, so I won't post my Make yet. I'd like to comment on this model's compatibility with the E3D V6.

While the E3D V6 DOES fit in the supplied parts (and is retained quite well, I may add), it is simply impossible to put the retention collar in place without breaking the main body of the print, if printed in the orientation supplied. With the layers facing "front to back" on the model, you can completely shear off the arm which actually mounts the carriage to the X-axis gantry. The retention collar is completely blocked from sitting in its mounted position the way the geometry is now. While it can be easily fixed with some 3D Fuse after the fact, I thought it was important that people knew this before diving in.

If I may suggest a "fix" (without modifying the model), change the orientation of the print on your bed so the main assembly prints "top" to "bottom". This way, instead of fighting the layer adhesion, you're fighting the actual layer, which will make it more resistant with any given material.

Otherwise, this file is very well executed. The rails the BL Touch sled slides up and down on are really quite detailed and effective. The single-fan duct is QUITE robust, and very effective at redirecting air flow to where it needs to go (overhangs are quite simple now). The given nozzle offsets are also perfectly adequate.

Thanks for the file. I'm definitely getting more out of my S5 now.

Comments deleted.

So I know this really isn't the place for this but I have posted the question in a few FB groups and no one seems to be answering. I want to go Dual fan but the question was simple...do I tie both fans into the existing blower fan wire...or is there a better safer way? If someone has a link to some positive info I would appreciate it.

Yes, there is enough power to drive two 5015 or 4020, etc. fans off the single OEM 4010 power source. Simply wire them in parallel (red to red, and black to black).

No problem. Yes that WINSIN 4020 fan should fit just fine. The key is to have the version where the mount brackets on the 4020 fan are only 2/3 the width of the fan. A fan that has the M3 bolt mounts that cover the whole width will not work as this mount was designed with a 4020 model that has the M3 bolt mounts as pictured in the image I attach. If needed in the future I could make a version for those 4020 fans where the plastic mount collar for the M3 bolts extend the whole width of the fan body.

I apologize but I am having a rather difficult time determining exactly which files I need to mount my E3D V6. I need it to mount to my Ender-5 (same mount of Ender 3) with the TL-Touch and a 5020 radial fan. I have taken some files from a couple of your other posts, but I believe I've landed on the right configuration. Please take a look and let me know if there's anything I should add and/or remove. Thank you!
4HOLE (Fan Shroud)

Thank you for your time and effort for bringing this incredible design to the public!

I was able to use this on my ender 5, but had to use a heat gun to move the slot closer to the screw holes. I printed in PETG, then used a small nozzle heat gun to melt the slot part and move it about 2-3mm closer. Also the heat gun helped the slot fit better into the bracket. YMMV.

Would you mind sending me a picture and marking where you had to modify the slot, so that I can correct it in the master STL? As I do not have an Ender 5 to test against. I did the design mods based upon an X gantry model for the Ender 5 that someone sent me.

Thanks for choosing the Hero Me! The parts you have selected are correct except one. You do not need the 'BaseLock-_Gen2.stl' as it is only used if you do not have any ABL (Auto Bed Level) sensor.

The "BLTouch_41.25X_702Y_1.5Z" itself has the retaining screws for the Base 1 (fits in the same position as the base lock).

If you find that the vertical mount point of the "BLTouch_41.25X_702Y_1.5Z" does not position the sensor correctly for your particular BLTouch to function, then I suggest that you download the adjustable BLTouch mount I provide. For use with the part cooling duct for a single 5015 fan that would be the following two parts:

I replaced the earlier fixed position BLTouch mounts with the adjustable one due to everyone asking for a different height.

Thank you very much for your prompt reply! This really helps me out a lot. Do you know by chance if a 5020 radial fan is the same size as a 5015? I'm really not sure what the difference is... If it helps, the one I ordered is 50mm x 20mm, Cool-Cox part # BF5020H24D. Thank you again for you all your help. You are a true gentleman and a scholar!

5015 = 50MM (Height & Depth) and 15mm (Width), whereas 5020 = 50mm (Height & Depth) and 20mm (Width). I do not have a 5020 compatible part cooling duct at this time.

Boy do I feel dumb for not being able to figure that one out... I'll throw it in a CAD program and just extend that one side out 5mm. I've never done anything in CAD before, but I'm up for giving it a try.

Update 2: Here is an improved version of the correct 5020 fan duct. This has improved sculpting of the initial inner air path. If you have not printed any 5020 duct from me, print this one.

You continue to outdo yourself, sir! Thank you so much!! I was trying to figure out how to change it in CAD but was having a heck of time as I have no experience. I really appreciate you doing this!

Thanks, glad to help! Please post a make when you are done. Let me know if you have any issues. After the Update 2 late last night, I refined the 5020 again with an even better sculpting of the air flow at the entrance. It is posted on the make, but also attached here. It is version Gen2c.

Here is a corrected version. I found a 5020 template on Thingiverse, and my first one did not have the depth of the fan duct correct. This one is now matching the 5020 radial fan opening correctly.

Here you go. This is untested but is a copy of my 5015 with the side stretched to hold a 5020 radial fan. Let me know how it works for you. REMOVED incorrect duct design.

After some recent issues with items I am currently looking to download and print this off for my Ender 3. I have the TH3D V6 (which is a E3D clone) I have used other E3D mounts and they seem to work well so I will assume the same with yours. Just to be clear I assume I will need the following parts...I do not have any form of TOUCH devices.
Base1 Gen2
Base2 Gen2
Duct (what ever flavor I decide upon)(leaning towards dual 4020)
Base Lock Gen2

Would I be correct in my selections?

Thanks for choosing the Hero Me! Yes, if you don't use any ABL (Auto Bed Leveling) then you have selected the right parts to download and print.

Will 25mm M3 bolts work to attach? I can only find 25mm and 30mm length bolts locally (or even online @ Amazon!).

I'm sorry, I was wrong. The current setup will require 30mm M3 bolts to secure the Base 1 & 2 parts together. you will also need 4 washers (2 each bolt) for the head side of the bolt. 30mm is a tad too long (hence the washers) 25mm is too short. I will work on updating the slots so 25mm M3 bolts can be used, until I post an update, 30mm is required. Again I am sorry for the misinformation.

So I was able to source some 30mm long bolts locally, but they were far too long, and the standard M3 washers did not fit in the counter sunk holes in the front under the fan. I ended up cutting the bolts down to size with a dremel and making it all work, but I think 25mm would have been fine, at least for me. I don't know if that's because my printer might not be 100% calibrated properly and things aren't dimensionally identical to what you designed or what. I was able to get everything up and working with an e3d v6 clone hot end and get some pretty decent first layer tests late last night. I didn't put everything back together because I have a BLTouch that is getting delivered today, but so far, so good! Thank you so much for your hard work and responsiveness with your design.

As an aside, I printed out the fan cover you linked to that's depicted in the photos above, and MAN, did it make the fan WAY louder. Lots of turbulence. I ended up just leaving the fan bare.

Thanks for the feedback. Sorry for the extra work you had to go through. I am surprised that you got 25mm to work, I came up 2mm short when trying 25mm the other night. I had some washers that may have been for M2 bolts but fit smoothly on the M3 and were small enough to slide inside the counter sunk holes. I have found with the fan that depending on how you tighten the cover to the fan, it can cause vibrations that make it louder, but I have been able to adjust the M3s to get it silent. In any case that is not my design.

I will take all this input and work the design (for the Base 1 & 2 connections) to be more tolerant of printer differences. One question that could account for your M3 bolt size vs. mine.. Which way did you orient the Base 1 part when printing, was the back down on the build plate, or was it printed standing upright. There is an article I saw recently that the 90 degree difference can make a big impact on dimensional measurements due to the layer orientation. If you printed the Base 1 'standing' (as it would be used) that could account for the difference. I recommend printing it with the back (that faces the X gantry) down on the build plate. When you get yours all completed, please post a make with photos.

I printed it laying on its back. I think I need to re-print it though, because the part that is supported during print and not touching the build plate isn't flat for me either. I could get the top bolt into the gantry but I needed to take a clamp and push the area near the 2nd hole flat against the gantry plate before I could get the other lower bolt in. Also, I'm not sure if 25mm would fit, I just know I cut a good 2-3mm off the 30mm bolt I had and I still had plenty of thread sticking through that I think could be trimmed off and that a 25mm would have been OK. I have a pack of M3 hardware coming today with my BLTouch that goes up to 25mm, so I'll try it again with a 25mm bolt and let you know. Thanks again, really. Your work is amazing, and its appreciated.

Thanks very much! Interesting on the problem you had with the back of the part, when the supports are removed, it should be completely flat. Which printer is this for (CR-10/S or Ender 3 or 3 Pro)? and how old is it? There have been some slight changes by Creality in the last couple months to the X gantry. The Base 1 has been tweaked to fit well to the newer X-gantry plate (3mm notch removed from back clip that wraps around the X gantry to support the shorter height of that metal part), but still is compatible with ones from 2+ years ago. Also, what slicer are you using?

I have a vanilla Ender 3 purchased off Amazon in November of 2018, so not THAT old. The issue was certainly that for some reason my print was warped. I think I had my bed temp too high (75C) when I took it off, so it may have still been a little bit soft. Either way, I got it all good and posted a make. Seems to be working well, even with my $18 E3D V6 clone. I had no issues getting good first layers the first time after releveling the bed and adjusting the Z-stop. Now to start wiring up and configuring the BLTouch and I'll be off to the races. Thanks again for the help. This mount and duct look awesome.

Thanks! Glad to hear it's working for you. Thanks for posting your make.

Yes, a 25mm M3 bolt will work to secure the Base 1 & 2 parts. I will update the notes.

Awesome, thank you!

Hi. Could you post a picture of the LED mount in place? I'm not clear on where it's supposed to mount.

Here you go, these drawings will help you. The LED mount is only designed to fit the single 5015 duct and the OEM 4010 duct.

Did u try to assembly the Gen2? I just printet mine and the parts won't get together, since there is no room for the locking part, when the hotend is in

Yes I have assembled it and use it. Which cooling duct are you referring to so I can investigate. You mount the part cooling duct last (up from the bottom), after you secure the base to the X Gantry. That way you have full access to the screws for the base lock.

I can get base 1 on the hotend separate and base 2 separate on the hotend - but when I want to mount all 3 pieces, the base 1 and 2 interfere with each other

Here are a couple of pics of the base 1 & 2, base lock, and duct assembled with an E3D V6. The Base 2 piece does take some pressure to snap it into place. These pics are of PETG prints.

Is it that the base 1 & 2 parts won't close around the neck of the E3D hot-end, or that when they are attached there is not enough clearance for the base lock? Can you send me a pic (or two) of what is not fitting so I can diagnose and solve? My sequence is to add the hot-end to the Base 1, then place the base lock in position, then add Base 2 and use M3 bolts & nuts to secure base 1&2 together, then mount the unified base to the X gantry and add the M3 bolts to the base lock to secure the base to the X gantry.

Yes, I to had problems with locking part. No way of pushing it in. Had to snip a piece away. :)
Thank You & Keep up the good work!

Thanks for the pictures! It is a tight snap fit. I have been able to get the base 2 in and out on several builds without trimming and not cracking/breaking the base 1 retainer blade. I will look at editing the Base 2 part to fit more smoothly, but not loose strength or stability of holding the E3D.

U, Sir, are really someone to look up to! Thank You!

Thanks! I should have the update posted over the long weekend.

Did u try to assembly the Gen2? I just printet mine and the parts won't get together, since there is no room for the locking part, when the hotend is installed.

Its broken, ~2k errors in Hero_Me_Dual_5015Ducts-_Gen2a.stl

2K errors where? What tool is reporting that to you? Have you tried printing it? It slices and prints fine from both Cura and Simplify3D. You're going to have to give me more info in order to check and fix what you claim.

FreeCAD and Slic3r (errors are visible in gcode)

Hi szendo, Here is the repaired 5015 single fan duct
Mediaman, please feel free to add it to original asset if you want to

repaired hero me single 5015 fan duct
by Teynor

Ah, thanks I will check the original and the others and correct. Thank you.

Thanks very much for this! I have been building all the parts in TinkerCAD, and it does not have any test/repair tools. I have downloaded FreeCAD and have replicated your analysis (took a while to figure out the interface). The current parts, even with the issues you found, will print fine from Cura and Simplify3D. In any case, I am now going to go through my part masters to check for any errors, and repost 'repaired' versions of any that have errors. Thanks again.

Awesome, thank you for the design! Is there anybody that managed to export this into fusion 360 from tinkercad? There is a small adjustment I need to make....

I don't have Fusion 360. Does it not load STL files? What adjustment do you need?

Yes it loads STL but it's a mission to edit it. The little arm holding the unit for the BLTouch - I need to get rid of the round 'protrusions' - instead just a flat surface with 3.2mm holes for a normal screw - I've ended up a couple of times now breaking them off when I try to fastened it.

Again, thank you so much for the design! :) It looks/works awesome!

Which 'round protrusions'? Do you want the mount holes removed? I can make the edit you want, I just need to know the specifics. Can you markup the attached image, or show me from a photo what you want?

I have edited some of the STL's and it work, but it does not look neat when viewed. I take it you use tinkercad for the design?

'BLTouch_wing_singlefan-_Gen2' as example. At the back there are two stand offs that 'fits' into one of the other pieces then gets screwed onto the carriage - I've gone and flattened them from the back and the front and reduced the holes so 3.2mm, so a normal socket head 8 or 10mm will suffice. No unnecessary stress on the little stand offs which may cause them to break. The same for the base, where this wing attaches. Also flattened and changed the holes to 2x 3.2mm..... (If that makes sense...)

Understood. The original design went the route it did (referring to screw mounts for the base and add-ons) to re-use the original screws that came off the stock hot-end shroud and fans. If you have your printer dialed in well, and can get great alignment with your X gantry setup, then what you have done makes sense (removing the protruding stand-offs and simply have a 3.2mm hole in the wing (or base lock) and the Base). These spacers and larger holes allow for prints that are not 'perfect' as they allow for the differences in 3D printers and their setups and slicer print settings. So, a broader audience with differing skills and and printer variances, the route taken with this design (there are always compromises) gives the best results across as many people as possible (and the least support needed from me and others). =)

Thank you again for the message and the great design :) With the 3.2mm this thing is ROCK solid! :)

E3D V6's are not worth buying... THIS looks like a great design WELL DONE ! But the fact that the hardware doesn't directly screw into the printer makes it too dependent on the mount.

Thanks! That's why I have versions for the OEM and MicroSwiss hot-ends as well. Everyone has their preferences. Check them out here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917

Hero Me Gen2 - OEM & 5015 Fans - Ender 3, CR-10

looking forward for this release now all i have to wait for is my new ed3 v6 hotend

The Hero Me Gen2 for E3D V6 hot-end is now live here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101

Hero Me E3D V6 Cooling - CR-10, Ender 3, & clones

Great! I'm going to be posting a E3D V6 Volcano version as well! Pass the word ;)

Am I weird for being excited for the release of an stl?

The Hero Me Gen2 for E3D V6 hot-end is now live here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101

Hero Me E3D V6 Cooling - CR-10, Ender 3, & clones

Hehehe, I'll work to get it posted as soon as possible this weekend.

Hi mediaman? Does this have improved clearance for the wires yet or should I wait for the next update? Thanks for the great remixes btw?

Yes, the now posted updated Hero Me Gen 2 has greatly improved clearance for the hot-end wires.

The Hero Me Gen2 for E3D V6 hot-end is now live here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101

Hero Me E3D V6 Cooling - CR-10, Ender 3, & clones

Sorry, not yet. I thought I would have it completed by now. Life gets in the way. I will have it done and posted this coming weekend by 1/20 (Sunday).

Oh that's great, thanks for the reply I'll hang fire until the next version comes out then.

The pic shows the ezabl on the left side. is it possible to mount it on the right side?

Sorry, not with the current design. Given the placement of the X gantry mounting points and the 5015 fan on the right, it would be significant redesign work to get a ridged stable mount point for the EZABL on the right for this Hero Me remix. I have a number of improvements I am doing to several of my Hero Me remixes that I have to complete first. I can take a look at what might be possible after those are done this week.

Comments deleted.

Things are a bit of a close fit.
Doing some adjusting now to try get a bit more claerance to the rear X Wheel.
I also had to cut some of the rear base away to clear the X Carrage screws.

The Hero Me Gen2 for E3D V6 hot-end is now live here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101

Hero Me E3D V6 Cooling - CR-10, Ender 3, & clones

I have updated all three versions of the parts cooling ducts (OEM 4010 fan, single 5015 fan, & dual 5015 fan) with improvements to correct what you have encountered as part of a Gen 2 release. They are posted here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917
All mount points remain the same. I will be updating the other versions of my Hero Me remixes later today.

Hero Me Gen2 - OEM & 5015 Fans - Ender 3, CR-10

I have updated all three versions of the parts cooling ducts (OEM 4010 fan, single 5015 fan, & dual 5015 fan) with improvements to correct what you have encountered as part of a Gen 2 release. They are posted here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917
All mount points remain the same. I will be updating the other versions of my Hero Me remixes later today.

Hero Me Gen2 - OEM & 5015 Fans - Ender 3, CR-10

I am investigating this today. I will be printing test pieces and making adjustments as needed. If you can provide info and or pictures of where you had to cut some of the rear base part that would be very helpful. It is possible that some changes have been made to the X carriage plate since I got my CR-10 and Ender 3 (both very early units). Thanks.

I will take some tomo for you no problems. mines a lets call it mk2 ender lol. need any help at all just ask ,Its not my only printer so no worrys take apart for fun..

I will be posting updates to the parts this weekend that should resolve this issue.

Does this use all the stock parts and bolts from the ender 3?

The answer is... it depends on which part cooling fan duct you choose. The original 4010 fan for the hot-end is always reused. The original 4010 blower fan is only used in one setup. The others use a 5015 blower fan. It does use all the original bolts, but in addition you will need M3 nuts and bolts to mount the E3D V6 to the Base (two M3 26-28mm with nuts). If you use 5015 blower fans, you will need an M3 22-24mm bolt & nut for each fan.

Thank you very much, realy nice Christmas gift for many of us :)

The Hero Me Gen2 for E3D V6 hot-end is now live here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101

Hero Me E3D V6 Cooling - CR-10, Ender 3, & clones

This came at a perfect time! Merry Xmas! :)

The Hero Me Gen2 for E3D V6 hot-end is now live here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3291101

Hero Me E3D V6 Cooling - CR-10, Ender 3, & clones

Great! Glad to be on time. Merry Xmas!

What size is the cooling fan for the heat sink? Is it the stock E3Dv6 fan, or do I need to order another 24v fan?

The heat sink cooling fan mount is for a 4010 fan (which comes with the Creality and Ender series 3D printers).

Thanks for sharing this with us - nice concept!
would it be possible to adjust the diameter of the sensor mount for me?

I have added the adapter ring STL for the EZABL Mini to the files for this design. Please let me know if you need some other diameter adjustment.

Many thanks for your help :)
I'll check it out and come back to you.

Do you need an insert for the EZABL Mini? There is one with one of my other Hero Me mount sets.