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Wobbless X Mounts for MakerGear Prusa

by odudex, published

Wobbless X Mounts for MakerGear Prusa by odudex Oct 24, 2012
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Tired of trying to align Z threaded rods and get rid of wobble I created X mounts that absorbs XY movements that Z threaded rods cause when not perfectly aligned. The absorbing structures use same principle of some lunar rover wheels. The structure uses ABS flexibility as absorber.


On Z threaded rods, to limit vertical movement of nuts it's necessary to glue and small lid over upper nut. Inside use the common nut spring nut system.

The part I printed got a little bit fragile, I have to do some improvements but works great!


If you are having difficulties on slicing it try yo rotate the part.

I also have to check out if the "ABS spring" won't break due to fatigue after a lot of prints.

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Good job!
What is the matematical rule to obtain this spring?
I'd like to build my own in different size

Thanks, I did not model this spring mathematically. The equation would have a lot of variables as wall thickness, height, total lengthand material elastic properties. Even your print parameters will change behavior. I suggest you an empirical approach, manipulating variables listed above to get the perfect spring for your application.

will it work to print this in PLA?

Probably not. PLA is too brittle and not flexible enough.

I would really love to see a set like this made for the prusa i3. I hate the extruders hanging off the side of 2 bars...

Can you post some original files? i'd love to edit them for my purpose.

even if your rods are perfectly aligned, they could still be bent slightly. by using the springs in the way they are printed, they let the smooth rods make the axis move in only one direction, by only accepting one axis of motion from the leadscrews. i plan to use a design similar to this in my printer.

Nice DFarms. I've been using it for months, it is still working well.
If you are going to re-design it, an important improvement would be place the nuts "tap" in the lower part and re-enforce corners.

I think im going to embed a nut in the piece, and then tap the rest of the plastic, so i get less backlash, also im going to thicken the springs for durability.

You can try that, but I recommend to use the 2 nuts per rod with spring between system. About spring, I can assure you there is no sign of fatigue(white spots) on my springs. I printed them with a 0.35mm nozzle, and with this thickness the spring printed with 2 layer wall. For a bigger nozzle I would thicken proportionally. But thickening will reduce flexibility. You can also play different spring lengths and check the results.

I had tried using the springs before on my mendel, and they kept binding to the threaded rods, if they had some sort of sheath it would probably be fine though, or if the spring wire is thick enough.

The problem you're trying to solve is because you're over-binding your threaded rods.  Those bearings at the bottom of the machine are BAD BAD BAD.  Take them out, and replace your rod couplers with the good aluminum ones.  This allows the threaded rod to move in the X/Y as opposed to moving your carriage instead.  You want the Z threaded rods to be loose so that the smooth rod can take over.

 Actually the bottom bearings are not bad, if you can get straight rod and center the upper coupling - it offloads weight of the X assembly from the stepper bearings, which are not actually suited for the task.

Thantik thanks  for the tips!I've been convinced to solve the problem on its cause.You are right about bottom bearings, I 'll remove it.
I do have aluminum couplers. In the video I was testing one side with with tubes, and it seems tube did a better job. The aluminum coupler have one issue that is: Screwing over threads, that won't allow a good alignment. 

Updating: After releasing threaded rod from bottom bearing the spring still moves, but with a smaller amplitude. So it still acts and is contributing a little to increase precision. Of course coupling is not perfect, but it will never be

That's nice, very nice!