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TeachingTech

Ender 3 MKS Gen L adaptor case and mount

by TeachingTech Dec 24, 2018
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this design can damage the printer with 0,4mm nozzle. Some walls are too thin which cause printer to make short rapid zigzag moves. This is really devastating to rollers and belt. The author has a long experience with 3d printing and should be aware of this problem and avoid it during design process.

I made walls just 0,2mm thicker and it reduced printing time by 1 hour and got rid of zigzags. But don`t know how it will fit with other part and the board.

I do not know why you claim this is a bad design. I just imported the step file and the design seems quite sound. There is one small piece of a 1mm wall (which should not be a problem) and the rest are at least 2mm.

thanks alot for creating this, only issue i have is the screws from my factory board are thinner than the holes in this new case :(

The housing should also fit into 32bit SKR V1.1

The noise is much more noticeable, the whining is the biggest noise I have now. Using a slightly bigger hole and no guard fixes it, so a different pattern should be used for sure.

Thanks so much for this Michael, although I have to say that the fan guard made my new 5V 40x10 noctua fan whine a lot (https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Effects-of-Grill-Patterns-on-Fan-Performance-Noise-107/), so I ended up cutting it and it kind of helped... I will probably just do a re-print sometime since it looks ugly now (with the grill cut away) and is still not as quite as the original case (although since my part cooling fan blown, everything is quite now :)), but hopefully it'll help keep my TMC2208 drivers cool :)

To anyone reading this, I highly recommend using supports especially on the lower hinge piece. Otherwise it'll be hard to fit the hinge in.

I'm pretty shure you have printed the hinge the wrong way round. When I dragged the file into Cura, the clamps were on the bottom side. Of course this is not printable without support. If you rotate the part 180 degrees (bottom side up, top side down), then the part is lying flat on the bed and prints perfectly.

Thank You this is Awesome. Is there enough clearance to fit a Pi3 for Octoprint in the same enclosure?

Comments deleted.

Hi Micheal, I think it would be great if you could make a version of your case that accepts a 40x20mm fan. If I'm going to upgrade to a Noctua I would rather install a more efficient 40x20mm instead a 40x10mm.

Here is both my modification for the Original Ender 3 and a version with the Ender 3 Pro modified to be able to hold 40x40x20 fans.

Does the other download parts work with your Ender 3 pro case

Yes. The only thing modified with these are the fan depth.

Ok great! Thanks!

Any reason you didn't extend the front to make it flush?

Hey just a heads up, A few of us with non pro model Ender 3s that the screw holes in top and bottom to attach to the frame do not line up. I’m just drilling a hole to make it work, but just so you are aware.

I made a revised version for people to download. It can be viewed here.

All I did was simply move the holes over the 8mm required for the non pro versions of the Ender 3 for both top and bottom pieces.

Michael: If you would like to download the files and add them to yours, I'll be happy to delete my thing. Just let me know.

Non-Pro Ender 3 MKS Gen L Adapter Case (Fixed top/bottom Screw Holes)

The adapter does not work if used in combination with TMC2130 drivers as they have very long heatsinks which clash with the fan position. Just as report. I have to print the whole case but I don't like the fan bump so I will try to change it :) Ender 3 Pro here

Hey there, I moved the fan to the front of the case to avoid this problem, have you noticed that? There are probably variations in the heat sinks, but the 2130 drivers and heatsinks I have here leave about 8mm clearance between the two halves.

Yes my previous comment was if only printing the adapter for the screws. Clearance of 8 mm is not enough for 4010 fan :) Anyway the front fan seems to cool better the heatsinks (that are pretty hot without fan). I would like to change it also because I have MKS Mini 12864 screen which I wanted to be very close the control board box. Anyway your design seem to be very helpful for this modification which removes the main flaw of the excellent printer (the Sanguino board)

Just wanted to stop by and thank you for these files. I ordered my board when the video came out. Saves me the hassle from having to flash a bootloader and seems like it provides a lot of future upgradability. Thank you for all your videos as they have helped me a ton!

Hi Michael, nice job, looks solid :)

But im concern about SD card. Are you going to exchange Ender tft to MKS TFT with reader on board? Would it (eq. 2.4 TFT by MKS) fit factory TFT Ender's bracket (i doubt) or you will print TFT case? Any suggestions? Or maybe you tried to leave existing TFT and add I2C, Arduino SD card reader? Any suggestions how to add SD support?

I've ordered a 2.8 and 3.2 to test. Expect a video in January.

I've ordered the kit listed in the description of your video. I would be happy to contribute my findings if you like. I'm looking forward to this! Off to print the case. Merry Christmas, Michael!

Thank you so much for the video and the parts here, it's incredibly useful and much appreciated. Would it be possible that you could upload the source 3d model files too (I think you did this in one shape?) I would like to adapt your case in fusion 360 so it can be used with a Duet WiFi 2. Thanks!

The STEP files provided work fine in F360 and act just like a source file. You need to open them by uploading them in to your project folder and then opening them from there. The only thing we do not get is the history.

I've added STEP files, hopefully you can import those into Fusion 360.