Update 4/25/2019: There is a new version 2 here:
Improvements to the version 2 are:
- dovetails used on the fence rails
- narrower spring cover
- slots added to the base to allow dust removal
- holder for an Allen Key added
This is an older version, for the new version see the update and link above.
This thing is an adjustable drill guide with a fence that can be used either to assist in alignment or as a dust collector. The "cylinder" rotates, and will index to set the drill guide for any of the 6 holes. Though not a remix, I took some inspiration from Coat's drill guides (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013962) and Aleung's remix (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3023372).
This version has a "cylinder" which is designed with holes that are 2mm, 3.6mm, 4.4mm, 5.2mm, 6.0mm and 6.8mm (which correspond to 5/64, 9/64, 11/64, 13/64, 15/64 and 17/64 sizes). The holes may need to be drilled to their final dimension with the drill being used, since there is no allowance for the usual 3D printing surface roughness. The "cylinder" is designed to be replaced if other sizes are needed, however I have not made any other cylinders at this time. The STEP files are included which should make this easy to remix or add different drill sizes.
There are also marking lines spaced at 10mm intervals on the base and fence to help in alignment, as well as some sighting and marking holes on the base and fence which can be used to align the guide.
Orient the base to print flat with minimal supports, the dovetails will need supports however, below are the settings that worked for me:
- 0.2mm resolution
- support brim (on)
- support z distance 0.24mm (same for top and bottom)
- support x y distance 1.0mm
- support interface enabled (roof) at 1.0mm thickness
Orient the fence to have it's "legs" standing up vertically so that the dovetails will not need supports. Supports should not be needed with this part, though they should not hurt either.
Oriented the drill guide cylinders to print with supports touching the build plate, and with the base flat to the surface. Supports should not be used in the threads, and to avoid them, a support overhang angle of 63 degrees can be used if you want to print with supports everywhere.
This was printed with small end on the build plate and the large opening at the top, reverse of how it would seem most stable, I only did this to avoid supports in the center of the part. Supports touching the build plate will still be needed for the hex wrench part of the knob. Supports should not be used in the threads, and to avoid them, a support overhang angle of 63 degrees can be used if you want to print with supports everywhere.
To make this thing, the following are needed:
1x 7.5x20mm spring (I used a spring for the bed of my printer)
1x M4x40mm hex head screw
2x M4 locknuts
3x M4 washers
4x M3x12mm screws (optional - cap head is best)
6x M3 x 4mm x 4.3mm brass inserts (optional)
To assemble the guides to the base:
First, the M4x40mm hex head screw goes into the base, then one washer and M4 locknut are added to hold it on the base, so it will stick up like a post.
Next the drill guide is dropped on and then a washer is put into the bottom of the well in the center of the guide, followed by the spring, another washer and an M4 locknut. The last locknut should only be tightened so it is secure, it should not put a preload on the spring more than enough to hold the guides in position (and not loose). Then the knob is screwed down which covers the spring.
To use it, pull up on the cylinder, and rotate to the drill size needed, then let it settle back into the indexing tabs which should lock it in place. If it does not settle, you may need to clean the "elephant foot" off the base of the cylinder with a file or deburring tool.
The M3x12mm cap screws are used to clamp the fence to keep it from sliding freely. The fence will be loose without the screws. There are 3 holes which can be used on either side of the fence, but I found the screws work best in the middle holes and the holes closest the fence. The ones at the far end just tend to spread out the arms of the fence. M3 inserts can be glued in the holes in the fence, but they are not required.
If you make one please post a make, and if you see something that can be improved, post a comment - no guarantees of course, but if I have the time and can see a way to improve it, I may take another crack at it.
The parts are not oriented for printing, please rotate them to use the least supports.