Update 1/10/19 - Uploaded single piece (without extensions). This might fit on a large 3D printer like the CR-10 or Anet E12 - Will also try to work on single brand plates so there are fewer holes in the base. If you have hole placement for the ones I'm missing, please let me know and I'll draw it.
I needed a circle jig for my router, but didn't want to wait a few days for one to get shipped to me.
I started designing one, but ended up adding holes that makes it compatible with other routers as well.
Please note, some of the holes measured with a tape measure and protractor, they should be close, but may need tweaking. Some holes I was able to find the base plate diagrams to add those into the design.
I may separate these into the different brands to make this look a little less like swiss cheese. More to come...
That being said.. to the design details.
- It's 0.3" thick, 6.5" is diameter.
- I included holes for OEM access points for things such as Bosch adjustment screw hole.
- Many brands use pan head screws. You will need to switch to a countersunk screw. I had to use this type of screw head to avoid printing with supports.
- The attachments have a tight fit. You can glue them in place and make them permanent. I might make a screw together version in future, didn't get to that,, yet.
- To use the circle jig, you either need to screw it down at the center of your radius or cut the head off a nail and use that as a peg to anchor it. - I like nail idea best, just pre-drill the nail hole so it doesn't split the wood and comes out easier.
How it works
- Remove the existing base on the router, and install this one.
- If using circle attachment, install on base before installing on router.
- The circle attachment has holes that will give you 1/16" increments starting at 3.25" radius from center to center and going up to 8.9375". You will need to do some math to get the correct hole (or eyeball it)..
Example, if using a 1/2" bit and you are screwed or pegged into the first hole, you will be cutting out a 6" piece from the inside of the path and 7" hole on the outside. If you use the hole marked at 5" you would get a 9.5" cutout or a 10.5" hole. \
- Make small cuts! Don't try to go through a thick board in 1 shot.. Take 1/8 or so at a time. Get an up-cutting bit as well, they help keep the cut clean!
If this saved you a trip to the store or waiting several days for a part to come in the mail, please feel free to donate. Thank you!
I will upload new bases as I design them.
Working on other attachments as well.
If you have holes for missing bases, please let me know the hole locations. I'll add those.
RepKO 3D PLA
The base and the hole attachment should not need supports if printed as shown.
The 4" extension will need supports.
How I printed mine.. Warp-free.
Heated glass bed - 75C for first layer and 55C after first layer.
Nozzle temp - 210 for first layer, 200 for the rest
Fan - My room temp is about 68-70F right now, so no fan. If your room temp is 75F or warmer, fan on 25-50%.
I used a skirt, no brim, no raft.. it sticks fine and pops off the glass when the glass hits 48C.