Ender 3 Dual Z Axis Mod

by NeeqOne Jan 3, 2019
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Thanks for your design!

I would like to attempt this mod, but I would prefer to use 20 teeth belt pulleys instead the printed ones.

Could you tell me the length of the belt I should order?


Can't you just configure the stepper to replicate the first steeper without the need to have the upper belts?

You can do that. However, once the printer is turned off, there is a possibility for the steppers to be out of sync. You can actually add a stepper to this dual z axis system. I am doing something similar with my CR-10S.

Hey, don't you have to put in those super tiny black hex key screws inside the pulley teeth to make it lock onto the lead screw?

Is it still working good, any issues so far?
And where did you download the tensioner?


It is working really well. I have replaced the printed Flange Lead Screw Nut with one I purchased from AliExpress. You can download the tensioner from here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2693296

CR-10 / 10s Dual Z-Axis Belt Synchronizer
by frans84

Use my Power Supply Relocation bracket to mount your power supply, this is posted on THINGIVERSE in the ENDER 3 section. You can also use the factory CR10 Dual Z Motor Kit on the Ender 3, with just a few changes, works superb and only about $40! I have a Dual Z Axis Ender 3 using the CR10 Parts and this bracket mounts the PS on the rear of the RH rail. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3304804

ENDER 3 Power Supply Relocation Bracket

What changes did you have to make to the CR10 Dual Z Motor kit to make it work on the Ender 3?

Sorry for the late reply. I was out of touch for a few days. All that you need to do is shorten the supplied lead screw to match the existing screw on the other side for length, shorten the Z axis splitter cable (you can also just wrap up the excess length, if you desire) and adjust the Z- motor Current by increasing the reference voltage on the Z Axis stepper driver. I went from .56VDC to .85VDC, this provides more current for the dual motors.

Thank you. I had ordered an additional Lead Screw since I figured the one that came with the kit would be way too long. But the reference voltage was the missing piece of the puzzle. This helps me tremendously

I tried .75VDC to start with and kept a watch on the motor temperatures and looking for missed steps. After a while, I finally upped it to .85VDC. I have not had issues with either voltage. The mod uses 2 42-34 motors and the single motor has a .56VDC reference, so going up .30 volts seems reasonable enough.

This mod has nothing to do with the CR10 Dual Z Motor kit.

I understand, I was responding to the message by mlynch002 to find out what mods were done

I had most of the part lying around. So there was no need for me to spend on the kit. Thanks for the link for the power supply mount. I will be building an enclosure for my printer. so I might not need the mount.

I totally understand that! I do the same thing. The kit is very cheap for what you get and you can actually do it cheaper than the belt drive setup, IF you need to buy all the parts for the Belt Drive. I just thought that the Bracket might be a good addition to your printer. I didn't like the idea of the PS just flopping around when I added the Dual Z to mine, I guess that is the old "Hot Rodder" coming out in me. BTW, did you see a big improvement with the Dual Z setup on your printer?? I found that my layers are MUCH more uniform than before. Previously, the right end of the X-Z gantry could be pushed up and down with very little effort.

Use my Power Supply Relocation bracket to mount your power supply, this is posted on THINGIVERSE in the ENDER 3 section. I have a Dual Z Axis Ender 3 and this bracket mounts the PS on the rear of the RH rail.