This is a remix of just the base part for hamkers' awesome camera arm for mounting a Raspberry Pi camera onto a Creality CR10.
As the CR-10S Pro (my printer) doesn't have the same rails for the Y-Axis, and is an all-in-one unit with a nicely sloping (30 degree) front to the steel enclosure that forms the base of the printer; I figured my best bet would be to do a remix of the base with a 30 degree sloped bottom to hold 2 magnets.
You will need 2 x 20mm diameter x 10mm thick Neodymium magnets to complete this, and you will need to glue them into the holes in the base after printing (epoxy or high-viscosity cyanoacrylate). These are the magnets that I used - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0038E2KYE/
There are TWO STL files included, one for mounting the arm on the front of your printer in the bottom right-hand corner of the sloped front of the printer chassis, the other for mounting the arm in the bottom left-hand corner.
When front mounting the arm, you MUST mount the block so that it is at the bottom of the front slope of the chassis of the printer and hard to the left or right (depending on which post version you used) to ensure it clears the bed levelling screws when the Y-Axis is at full forward travel. (see the photo!)
You will also need a small piece of "non slip mat" to place between the base and your printer to stop it sliding, Or you can paint the 30 degree face of the part with PlastiDip or a rubber based masking fluid like I did - again this will make it grip on the front of the printer and stay steady in use.
Many thanks to Hamkers for their original model (which is awesome!), and I hope someone will find this useful!
UPDATE 10 JAN 2018
Final design for the part test printed successfully, photos taken, THING info updated, and a solution found for the part sliding on the printer chassis.
UPDATE 11 JANUARY.2019
It might be possible to print this WITHOUT supports by slicing it with the 30 degree sloping face flat on the printer's bed.
Also, RAFT not needed, as I have figured out the bed temperature that the black PLA I was using to print it likes, and my bed adhesion problems for it have gone away.
Creality 3D PLA
Used the same infill, resolution and supports settings as hamkers recommends for their camera arm. Printed with a raft as I was having bed adhesion issues with the Creality Black PLA otherwise.
Sliced with Cura 3.6.0
Note, my Printer is a Creality CR-10S PRO, not the CR-10S, but Thingiverse don't have that model listed yet.
Supports were set to "Touching Buildplate" only.
Step 1 - Remove supports & lightly sand the the 30 degree face to remove support waste
Because the base is sloped and you have to print the model upright to ensure that the stub that the arm attaches has the best fit with hamkers's camera arm clamp, there will be a lot of support waste left on the 30 degree face that will rest on the printer chassis once you remove the supports.
You should lightly sand this only as far as removing the lumps from the supports so that the base sits flat on the printer.
Base post sanding. Removing the supports also removed a small bit of the bottom layer of my print!. Couldn't get all the supports out of the "Thanks" message to hamkers,
STRONG MAGNETS WARNING!
These are 12.4Kg Pull Neodymium magnets.
If allowed to spring together under magnetic force, they can crush fingertips and will most likely shatter! They will also be strongly attracted to your printer's chassis or any other magnetic objects around!
TREAT THEM WITH GREAT CARE.
Step 2 - Test fit the magnets
Then CAREFULLY test fit the magnets - they WILL want to snap together if you get them too close to each other
If you've used the same ones I did, they should slide easily in and sit flush with the surface, or just very slightly below it. (I allowed for slight variations in magnet thickness in the design)
Step 3 - Glue the magnets in place
Mix up your favourite epoxy and use it to glue the magnets in place in their holes.
Clean off any squeeze out and clamp the magnets down to hold them flush in the holes using whatever method you prefer. Wait for the epoxy to cure thoroughly before using.
If you find you have any blobs of epoxy causing the base not to sit flat on the printer's case once the epoxy has cured, just sand them flat.
(Or if you prefer, and you printed it in PLA, I have found that a high viscostity cyanoacrylate glue will work just fine, and sets quicker!)
If you want to do so, you can use contact cement to glue a rectangle of felt onto the base to hide the sanded surface and the magnets.
Get stuck in there!
Step 4 - Add an anti-slip coating!
If you can get your hands on some rubber based masking fluid, I have found that several coats of one on the 30 degree face, allowing it to dry between coats (and thoroughly cure before you first stick it to the printer), forms a perfectly acceptable rubbery anti-slip coating!
This will stop the base from being able to slide around on the printer. It is however fragile and will peel off over time
Alternatively you could try "PlastiDip" as that would probably work as well as it dries to a rubber surface (but I did not have any to hand to try).
You could use a piece of anti-slip matting instead if you'd prefer, I leave it up to you to find your own solution!
Four coats of industrial rubber based masking fluid after the top coat has dried. Yes, it's pink.
Measured the front angle of the sloping front of the printer chassis.
Imported hamkers's "base" STL file into fusion 360, took measurements of the diameter of the post.
Checked with hamkers that I had got the measurement for the post his clamp fits onto was correct. (He was super helpful! thanks dude!)
Iterated through various versions of the part in Fusion 360, printing test models as I went, including trying to design in "anti-slip" feet using O-rings (which didn't give enough grip) before reverting to the version given here.