Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

Prusa i3 MK3 Corner ENCLOSURE

by Inglord Jan 9, 2019
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I really like this enclosure idea!!
Wish I had found it before making a conventional design. This will definitely be the next enclosure I make.

Excellent work!

Am I missing a different type of bottom foot? The Original Bottom feet that the Prusa team provided are cone shaped. Your Bottom Corner pieces have a similar cone that I assumed was supposed to nest on top of the feet from the original enclosure files. But your bottom corner pieces have this strange cylinder that fills the void so there is no room for the cones. Was that intentional? Do you have other feet files? Or is that cylindar a mistake?

Here is am image of the two pieces. The feet from the original Enclosure and the bottom corner piece from your files. You can see they won't nest one on top of the other.


Why did you print those parts ?
The Original Lack Bottom parts are in that shape for maintaining the top Lack table on the second Bottom one so that it won't glitch away and you can also pull it off…
My version is screwed all together; the cone shape is no more needed and i transformed it to a full cylinder for more stability and resistance.
You have to use long screws screwed from the Bottom througt the Bottom parts into the legs…
I just realized that I forgot to describe that part, I would do it asap

Ah!! That makes sense now. In that case I will need to use the Bottom corners from the original enclosure. I am going to be stacking 4 tables tall. So I need to attach all of the legs except for the top front corner. Not a problem since it looks like all of these pieces are compatible with each other. I do realize that means my top table mat be unstable and try to topple over. I will address that somehow.

I love the Magnetic door latch pieces. I pressed two magnets into each hole using a grand total of 16 magnets. They work so smoothly I love it. I can't wait to get my Plexiglas cut.

Check the plexi dimensions in that case, cause mine are a bit smaller than the Original one (my Bottom parts are 2mm or so shorter cause i removed the "stackable" pieces…
You should also take a look for some brackets to fix the top table, that it won't tilt forward (the stability with only 3 legs is not the same ;) )
Hope you understood what i mean :p

Completely understood. Thank you. I won't actually be cutting my plexi until I rebuild my MPCNC to big enough to make the cuts for me. That way I know the cuts will be square and exact. I love to tinker with my machines so the project list is never done.

Comments deleted.

Well done! I like it. I am printing the parts now. May I suggest you add some text explaining how many of each piece you need to print. I don't yet see how the tall round pieces are used. My best guess is it is a filament guide to go through the top of the table but I am not sure.

I assume I need to print 2x copies of the Door piece sets and 1 X copy of the top an bottom corner sets. If so then I will be left with an extra filament guide that I don't need. Am I correct?


I updated the description. I hope it's more clear :)
I also modified the door file; so that the filament guide is no more included.

Thank you. Love this design. Can't wait to get it built. When I do I'll post a make.

first i have to say i really like this version.
My question is: is there an update about the files with 3mm plexiglass thickness?
And where have u installed the power supply ? looks like its inside and recording to comments on the original Ikea Enclosure its heating up in there ?!


Just posted the 3mm version :p

I left my PSU on my prusa…
The most of the time, i keep the doors open cause it get's too hot for PLA and I don't print ABS so often.

Yeah you are encouraged to move the PSU out of the box. The original enclosure mode had models that could mount the PSU under the enclosure. Here is one that can mount the PSU outside of the same enclosure if you are not using the legs on the Bottom Lack table.

Alternative PSU-Mount for Prusa I3 mk3

If available, would appreciate one for 3mm thickness of plexiglass as well, as in UK vendors tend to offer in 1mm increments.

I'll do it, just leave me some time

Your idea is great! I would love to print this enclosure for my Ender 3. Would you be able to provide a version for 3mm plexi? (2.5mm not available anywhere) Also, I would like to have a total inner height of the enclosure of 60cm (Ender 3 without spool is 47cm) - how do you think the legs could be extended for your design?

Sorry for late reply, I'll make it for 3mm asap

Inglord, seems you are a very busy guy! :) Would you mind sharing the source files so that "the community" could take over? Your concept is great, but to become a star in enclosures category, it needs a bit more flexibility: various leg heights, plexiglass thickness etc. - I could contribute with those for the beginning.

Doesn't putting the printer at an angle reduce the distance the bed can travel?

Not at all, the bed has all the Space he needs, and you don't need to change the bed cable as on the original enclosure.

Do you think this could be adapted to a Walmart Mainstay Parsons table? They are much easier to obtain where I am and somewhat cheaper. I’m totally new to design.

I'm sure it could be adapted, but I don't know if it would work too well. I have both the Parsons and the Lack tables, and the Parsons is a bit smaller in all dimensions (20x20x17.5 for the Parsons, 21.625x21.625x17.75 for the Lack). Shipping isn't the fastest, but the black or white Lack tables are super cheap at $9 each if you go through the Ikea website, I do recommend going that route if you can wait.

Firstly I love this corner design. I am a soon-to-be owner of an AnyCubic i3 Mega and am excited this! I probably will add height and use two tables. I'll post when it's done.

The bottom corner STL has a problem. The two bottom corner pieces at the front and the one piece, to some degree at the back right, do not touch the print surface. They're about a mm or so above the print bed. The two hinge pieces at the back left do lay flush with the print surface.

The attached image shows the gap. I've generated the gcode from two different apps, Simplify3D and PrusaControl and but show the same result; those pieces not laying flat with the print bed. This also applies to most of the parts in the doors STL. The top corners and pieces STL is correct and the print preview shows the bottom of all pieces touching the print bed.

I'm just learning 3D printing and modeling and have no idea how to edit this STL to get those pieces to lay flat on the print bed. Any help would be appreciated!

Hi, thanks for the reply, let me check that.
Sorry for the inconvenience :'(

So i checked and yes you're right they're not all completely laying on the bed....
I'll modify the STL's and upload them as soon as possible.
in the meantime, you just have to use the "Split" funtion in Slic3r PE (PrusaControl doesn't have this option. I don't use Simplify3D but suppose it has a similar function to split parts into single objects)

No worries and much thanks! I've only had my Prusa a few days and still learning about it so thanks for the heads up about the "Split" function in Slic3R PE. I'll definitely try that.

Thanks for letting me know about the Split function. That fixed the issue and I'm happily printing your remix now. Thanks again.

Hi Inglord, I like your enclosure a lot, but why is it still writen :
"Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!" ?
Are there some details that are not working?
Is it unbending enough with one foot less?
Did you really manage to find 2.5mm thickness plexiglass?
Your grooves are 0.25 less thick, is it ok to insert the plexiglass without breaking?
What for the big circles under the bottom corners?
What for the washers that come with the top corners?
What for the peg with the doors parts?
Are you using the original screws for corners?
Can you list the needed screws?
Is it possible for you to had instructions, please?
Do you think it's possible to had the bottom table's feet? (New parts to print? What order of assembly?)
Congratulations for your great job and this great idea of a large acces.

First sorry for my late reply, i'm a kind a busy these days :)

"Are there some details that are not working?"
Normally all is workin fine, the "Work in progress" is there cause i still doing some improvements.

"Is it unbending enough with one foot less?"
It's as strong as with the 4 legs, just don't sit on it :D

"Did you really manage to find 2.5mm thickness plexiglass?"
Here in France it's much easier and much much cheaper 2.5mm that the 4mm

"Your grooves are 0.25 less thick, is it ok to insert the plexiglass without breaking?"
I did it that way to hold it very tight cause the weight of the doors

"What for the big circles under the bottom corners?"
I expanded the original Bottom pieces just to have more strenth and cause the original hole is no more used.

"What for the washers that come with the top corners?"
they're to be used with the screws that came with the Ikea Lack table

"What for the peg with the doors parts?"
To be put together on the door and hold the handle.

"Are you using the original screws for corners?"
Only for the top corners

"Can you list the needed screws?"
"Is it possible for you to had instructions, please?"
Doing it, just leave me some time :p, that's why the 'Work in Progress' ;)

"Do you think it's possible to had the bottom table's feet? (New parts to print? What order of assembly?)"
Not sure, cause the bottom corners are screwed from the bottom and uses the hole for the legs, but why not, just have to think about a good way to fix the legs.

Congratulations for your great job and this great idea of a large acces."
Thanks :p

Love this enclosure. I had a makeshift enclosure for a while knowing at some point I'd print the parts for a Lack version. I really didn't like the 4th corner support in the way both from seeing the printer and from accessing it.

For anyone else not sure of the screws to use for the bottom. I used a 4 inch long #4 Wood screw. Like this -- https://www.homedepot.com/p/14-x-4-in-Philips-Zinc-Plated-Flat-Head-Wood-Screws-2-Pack-807791/204275625

merci d'avoir pris le temps de répondre à toutes mes questions. Content d'apprendre que vous êtes français.
Personnellement je n'ai pas trouvé de plexiglas de 2,5mm d'épaisseur, j'ai modifié vos pièces pour accueillir du 3mm (j'espère que ça ne sera pas trop lourd pour les portes).
Je n'ai pas trop compris le rôle des rondelles.
Pas non plus compris le rôle des cylindres (avec les pièces des portes).
En tout cas félicitations, super idée cette grande ouverture!

Chez Casto ou Weldom, je n'ai trouvé que du 2.5mm en plexi, le 3 ou 4 c’était sur commande et excessivement cher. (j'en ai eu pour 24€ chez Weldom découpe comprise)
Les rondelles pour le top sont pour maintenir les vis d'origine d'Ikea.
Je ne vois pas de quels pièces vous parlez pour les cylindres...

Je comprends mieux, pas trop de Casto par chez moi, et encore moins de Weldom.
Ce que j'appelle les pièces cylindriques c'est ce que j'ai entouré en rouge sur la photo jointe.

Ça c'est le passe filament a travers le plateau du haut.

Regarde ici dans la version originale, c'est une des pièces du Spool Holder

Original Prusa i3 MK3 ENCLOSURE -Ikea Lack table - Prusa Research

This is awesome! Was going with a two table enclosure but will be doing this one instead! Prusa i3 MK2S and soon to have MK3! Thanks for the build!

Very nice! I like the idea of using only one Ikea Lack along with half the plexi per Lack. Will print this when my Prusa i3 MK3 arrives.

I like it! Less plexi needed if I replace the the back corner panels with MDF. Since you don't need to be able to see through the back.

I like it! Less plexi needed if I replace the back corner pieces with MDF.