Why to make Filament, when Pellets (Granulate) is working?
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Years ago, I have tried to make own filament from wasted plastics. It worked, sometimes. If it doesn't work, I have lost time by cleaning plastic parts, shredding, filastruding, cleaning the filastruding machine. That's time-expensive.
Then I have found at ebay filament for $3/kg. So I have cancelled my work at filastruding. It would work if I would use pellets.
Now I would make some 'big' prints. My question was, why to make filament when I could use pellets directly at my print machine.
To other people, it may be a question to use other plastics, not available in filaments.
Nozzle: I have used a standard 1mm nozzle.
Heater block: needs 2x 40W Heater elements. Very important is a stable heating. I run at 240′C to 250′C. Temperature influences the material flow rate.
Hotend tube: It's steel, manufactured on my lathe. Cooling does not help. Transport worm inside: a wood drill, single thread (!), not a steel drill. Drill shown at the drawing is the wrong.
Funnel (3d printed part): There are outlet holes for cleaning issues. Close with a sheet of aluminium.
Gearbox: This is disassembly from an old battery drill machine. Planetary gears, about 40:1. Good front bearing for pressure force. Safety torque limiter. Glued in the (printed) holder plate. Connection to drill is a hex7mm to square 1/8 connector of a normal toolbox.
Around this coupler you can see (video only) a green wire. This is used as stirrer and will help to make pellets around the inlet.
Look for precision here. My drill (and hotend) is dancing around because not optimized precison. If flexible coupler, it must support pressure force (most flex couplers do not)
Stepper motor: same as my standard extruder. Look for precision at the coupler. My motor is dancing around.
slicer: I have set 1mm filament and flow multiplier of 3. Then it works without machine setting change. (normally I work on a AGJW Extruder with modified tooth count 9:43 and 1.75mm filament). select constant material flow rate (makes different move speed).
Printbed: first, I had used glass mirror printbed (with kapton tape + ABS solution). I have put the heated hotend onto for cleaning and after a minute ...pling... glass is broken. Now I have made a printbed from an old PC mainboard. works good and lightweight.
next iteration cycle:
tests of other materials, specially ABS. If you have samples and you would like to help me, please contact me (European union only).
more stable heating, longer melt area (longer hotend)
more precision in the couplers
thread in the plastic (left side) is meant for a bottle for pellets. Wrong kind of thread.
Material Sample 1:
I've used Acrylonitrile styrene acrylate (ASA), only because I have this.
I feel, there is a high amount of pigment mixed in. (it doesn't have shiny surface). More pigment is less print quality, this is an experimence of my filament printing. In first test, I cannot get a constant material flow, as required.
TPE (I bought it as 'filling for teddybear'. Could be Polyethylene, does not stick to printbed, Layers does not stick together.
PolyOne thermoplastic rubber. See photo, bendable clothespeg. Prints very good, if a rubber thing is needed.
If new information, I will update here.
( * ): I don't like to have my work as a gift to ytbe, so I'll use annother video platform