New parts (01/17/2019) and instructions (01/25/2019) (see below)!!! In an effort to make this universal for MK2.5/MK3, and especially the MMU2 upgrade, I have changed the way the Mosquito is mounted and the PTFE filament tube is installed to eliminate any gaps.
This an update to previous version. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2995464
This uses Prusa's new 'Dyson' extruder parts for part cooling. I had to move the part fan mount points <--4mm to adjust for heatblock differences.
- WARNING/NOTE!!! - I am testing this on a daily basis to make sure there is no warping of the fan nozzle. So far so good. I am using Prusa's supplied ABS part and, after a month or so, I will test with a PETG version. There is a 3mm clearance on either side of the heatblock. Hopefully enough. If not I will modify Prusa's part for wider clearances.
- UPDATE to warning (1/25/2019) - Been running a month including two 14 hour prints and one 26 hour print both at 250c. No warping/melting issues using PRUSA supplied ABS nozzle.
This thing replaces the stock E3Dv6 hotend on a stock Prusa MK2.5 or MK3 with Slice Engineering’s Mosquito hotend.This installation uses the existing mounts and 3mm hardware found on the Prusa. You will need to provide a short (approximately 40mm) piece of PTFE tubing to complete the install.
PETG - 0.2 mm layer - 20% Infill
I used the Prusa MMU2 to get the 'HOT' and logo emphasis on the cover. If you do not have multi-color ability then you can simply ignore that part and it will just give you indented text.
Video of installed hotend: https://youtu.be/7WW0kKhmTQ0
- It is highly recommended that you use a new thermistor and heater cartridge. The existing ones in the E3Dv6 hotend have been bent 90 degrees and lay alongside the heat block which can make them brittle over time. The Mosquito has the cables coming out straight as they were manufactured and they do not touch nor run along the heat block.
- In the 'old' design the PTFE tube was kept in position merely by friction. It could, and did, shift especially when I tested with MMU2. The new design is two piece. The upper PTFE is set against an internal beveled collar in the extruder body. The lower PTFE is set against the indent in the top of the Mosquito hotend. Note in the pictures that you will probably have to bevel the tube to securely fit into the Mosquito indent. Both tubes are then pressed firmly in and then cut flush. Check your filament path at each step to 'feel' for any snags. Openscad source files are included if you need to adjust dimensions for any material/printer discrepancies.
- You need to 'punch out' the membrane in the Mosquito mounting holes. They are there just to ensure a smooth overhang.
- DO NOT FORGET to put in the capture nuts, especially for the 45 degree fan mount, BEFORE any assembly. The nozzle and Noctua fan mount screws just thread into the plastic.