Added a glider nose and front fuselage piece which is longer and without holes. The new files are Glidernose01 and Fuselage01-glider
EDIT - 17.02.2019:
Added a wing with a 200 mm longer wingspan for slope soaring or for a wider speed envelope. The necessary parts for this larger wigng are called BigWing, and use the same wingtip and aileronhinge part as the other wing.
EDIT - 17.02.2019:
Added parts that make the wing easier to remove and install using a latch in the rear instead of a screw. I haven't tested it yet. Use a 4mm and 2 mm piece of carbon rod to create the latch, and a <4 mm wide spring to hold the latch forward. The three new parts end with "winglatch"
EDIT - 26.01.2019:
Added a second Elevator with the control horn closer to the centerline. Elevator01 is the old one and Elevator02 is the new closer to the centerline. Also added some lateral internal structure inside the Hstab for a little bit of extra stiffness.
EDIT - 25.01.2019:
Added a nose part for mounting Cox 049 Babe Bee engine to the front of the nose. Also added some more strengthening inside Fuselage04 and Fuselage02-largeprinter where it was weakest.
EDIT - 19.91.2019:
Uploaded new Wing01 with a pocket for more room for the elevator servo.
Uploaded new elevator parts with a wider slot for the hinges so they don't fuse when printing.
Added servo covers.
Added new fuselage parts with wider hole for easier battery installation.
A small and extremely fast Speed 400 pylon racer.
Wingspan: 720 mm (920 mm when using BigWing version)
Length: 578 mm
Est. weight: 450 g
CG: 26 mm
Elevator: 3-5 mm
Ailerons: 4-6 mm
Elevator should be hinged with CA hinges. Ailerons should be hinged with 2 mm carbon rod. The carbo rod may need to be sanded slightly to fit. Sand the rod using relatively fine (320-400 grit) sandpaper under a running faucet, which eliminates the dust and keeps the rod cool and clean. Aileronhinge01 is the center hinge support where the wing parts join together. All control surfaces have integrated support towers. Without them they would not print successfully. Remove the towers after printing. The towers are on the bottom of the surfaces.
The wing parts are very strong and only need short 6 mm joiner bits between the parts to add joint strength. I recommend 6x60 mm pieces of carbon tube. I have added printable Wingjoiners which will work in a pinch. If the carbon tube is too tight sand under running water until it fits. Ailerons need to be installed at the same time as the wing is assembled. Wing04 is an elliptical piece that goes on the back of the wing. Use an M3 screw and nut to attach the wing. Warm the nut with a heat gun before you insert it into the fuselage so that it doesn't crack the fuselage.
The CG should be about 26 mm fron the leading edge. There are two bumps under the wing to help find the CG with your fingers.
The horizontal stabilizer is aligned with two 2 mm pegs made from whatever you want, for example 2 mm carbon rod. Use a countersunk M3x20 (or shorter) screw to attach the stabilizer to the fin.
Use your head and it's self explanatory. The parts only go together one way.
The bottom files in the file list have special properties. Here is a description:
Largeprinter: Parts that can be printed on a printer with 300 mm height to reduce the amount of parts.
Externalmotor: Parts that facilitate external mounting of an outrunner of up to 28 mm diameter in front of the motor firewall. Requires support inside the motor cavity.
Nofirewall: Nose parts without a firewall. Suitable for glueing a wooden firewall or glueing in a 28 mm inrunner directly.
Cox049: Nose section for mounting a Cox 049 engine directly to the front. High strength when printed two perimeter and 100% infill for the first 10 mm.
Required electronics (may include my affiliate links). I will link to cheap gear but you can decide for yourself if you want to get more high end gear like Mega motors and brand name ESCs and servos. Dymond make superb tiny servos:
Speed 400 brushed motor with a 5x5" propeller and brushed ESC is the old school way to fly planes of this class. I believe a Mabuchi RS380SH will be suitable for 3S and RS380PH will be suitable for 2S lipos.
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