Nucking Futs - Speed 400 Pylon Racer - RC plane

by tahustvedt Jan 15, 2019
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Has anyone tried putting solar panels on the wings?

It would be quite futile. Even with 20% efficiency, which is generous, and if you were able to cover the entire big wing with cells, the power would be under 22 W peak. In reality it will be less than half that and add less power than the extra weight would require to keep flying.

When you guys fly this, do you use flaperons? I am an average pilot and I am wondering if I can slow this airplane down a bit for the irst couple of flights.

I usually never recommend flaperons as they will cause the plane to stall if outboard ailerons are lowered, but it can probablybe don with this one since the ailerons don't go out all the way, and since it has a forward swept wing which helps prevent stip stalling. I don't recommend permanent flaperons, only if you can control the extension.

If you are not very experienced you will probably feel slightly overwhelmed when you first launch it but you quickly learn to fly it. In this flight I fly both fast and slow. After about 1:30 you can see some low throttle flying. I don't use flaperons.

hi , trying to print this baby off , got most of it done but i have noticed there is only one file for the right hand aileron for the small wing , am i missing some thing here , as the left isnt any were to be seen , can you advise please , many thanks andy

Your slicer should have a mirror functionality

he thahustvedt,
why dont u add some slightly bended upwards wingtips. This will make it more stable and more effective while flying.i did that 20 years ago with good effects. Bernd

I already made some but posted them in the RCGroups thread from post #192: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3206003-Speed-400-Pylon-Racer/page7

I think there are already too many variations of the design here so I don't want to add amore as people are already confused. :)

tks found it...but u are like a boss...

I flew my 135% nucking futz two flights. It was powered with a Dr. Madthrust 2970 3000kv on 4S. We didn't have radar. We estimated 150MPH. on Both flights I had issues with the center aileron hinge breaking. After the first flight I repaired it with CA and then reinforced it with thread. I lost it on landing of the second flight as the aileron let go again on the opposite side. It was a handful to glide with one aileron not functioning and out of position. I will reprint another at 135% and I will make the center hinge wider, thicker and a bit longer. I think it is capable of 170ish MPH if the aileron hinges can hold The pins on the ends were plenty. I was just where they join in the center. It was very fun while it lasted. I will print it again. I may also add some carbon tube in the aft two sections as it seems a bit weak. No complaints here, just observations. Loved and think it as tons more potential.

That's impressive. I measured my little NF to go 165 km/h (103 mph).

I use this GPS now and it's a nice unit because it's small enough and seems to work great: http://www.velocity-rc.com/cgi-bin/vrc/prod/manager.cgi?action=show&pid=82

Thanks a lot for the model !! it's great!!
can you please tell me the nº outline/perimeter shells do you use in the entire plane? wings etc? I use:
top solid layers:5
bottom solid layers:4
outline/perimeter shells:2
and primary layer 0.2mm

is this correct?

That will work, except for the outlines. Only one outline, not four. Four outlines will end up almost four times overweight. aLso make sure the outline is max 0,4. 0,3-0,4 mm works.

Thanks for the answer. I have 2 outline shells not 4. But then you recommend to change it to 1 outline shell ?

I used this as a dildddo, idk if i am supposed to but it was pretty nice with the propeller blowing air on my little tight puss.

Comments deleted.

Î managed to print the horizontal stabiliser with 7 gramms.a wall thickness of .35. all the gaps for hinges are there, were they should belong. I increased the STL in around 5/10 of a mm in the direction of the height.then everything fits also the hinges slits. the first prints were overweight and had fused slits.btw nice design. tks

Like i said before, best design!!!. I was just curious if you could modify the elevator to be surrounded by the horizontal stabilizer?
This would make it more sturdy and prevent servo damage. I attached a picture of a great planes rifle.
I would do it myself, if I could

This is the best design I have seen!!! Really incredible. Is there any way you would not mind posting:
1-The big wing split like the regular wing (Only 3 pieces including tip) with Winglatch
2- Any chance you could post fuselage large printer winglatch

What software do you use to design these?


Are you aware that you can stich the STL files in a software like Sketchup? And then slice the too-big parts in slicing software like Slic3r?

Sounds easy when you say it like that...LOL Thanks I might try.
I'm struggling. My main slicer is Cura but have tried to slice the wings in Cura, Simplify3D, Repetier, Slicr3D and they all have similar results.
I cannot get the spars to have a single layer? Any one knows what to change in Cura? Thanks,

Hi. Regarding your problem with the extra infill material along the inner spars: In Slic3r, you have to deactivate the checkbox „ensure vertical shell thickness“.
Your Slicer, in this case Cura, wants to make the thickness of the spars the same as the outer shell. Because the spars are diagonal, it adds extra material. Just search for an option that has to do with the shell thickness.
Or use Slic3r. I printed all my 3 Nucking Futs with Slic3r, works like a charm.

By slicing I've meant actually cutting model to smaller parts. Not gcode generation. :) once the part is cut/sliced you can re- export it to stl and process in Cura like you are used to. I also use netfabb basic for nice cuts. Sometimes slicers mess up the mesh during cutting/ trimming/splitting models.

I understood what you meant but actually if you just slice with a plane the fuselage joints will not be as the design intent and will be weak. Do you know how to get rid of the extra material on the spar that I am showing in the 2 pictures of the above reply? Thanks,

Hmm. I use slic3r for my work. But it looks like extra top/bottom layers. Or the number of side walls/ perimeters is greater than 1.

The only way I found to remove the extra yellow (top/bottom layer) is to slice at 0 top and 0 bottom layers.
What am I missing?

Your layer height is probably too high. Try 0,12 mm layer height.

If you really want to print with thick layers you can separate the print into different processes, with 0/0 top/bottom layers for the center section.

Comments deleted.

Thanks for the tip. Tried slicing for hours and reduced the layer height from 0.2 to 0.18 and it worked. And for some reason, i can now slice at 0.2 and 0.25 and all is OK? Go figure but thank you

Nice design, I'm planning of printing this to use as unmotorized slope soarer, I guess it will be tail heavy so I don't need to chase weight in the nose, anyone done it?
A slightly longer nose with the holes and ducts removed would be super nice!

I added a longer glider nose and longer fuselage front piece without holes now.

Awesome Tor Arne, you're the man

Hi again!
I have printed the glider nose but now I was going to print the middle section I can only find one with the holes still there, any chance you would make one without holes and maybe also a single large print with the glider nose and the middle section (when I need to reprint this after some mishaps), so that the fuselage is only back an front plus nose cone?
Rgs Johan

Sorry I forgot about the exhaust holes. Will do it now.

Done. Fuselage02-glider

Printer with Simplify3d :)
No blobs... No strings... Just smooth

you could share your setings ?

of course.

you get it in my file section.


Hello tahustvedt

First, thanks for this great plane. Its a piece of Art.
Is it possible to share your CAD Files??

im thinking of second servos for flaps and other stuff.

Cheers Franky

Does one 0,4mm perimeter mean wall thickness in cura?? I'm new to cura and 3d prints. Thanks,

Try this video:

My experience Simplify3d print this parts better than Cura.
Guess if you tweak the settings in Cura you get a good result.

Is it possible for you to post a step file wing01. I would like to create an extra center piece that adds dihedral, if that ok with you. Great design by the way. I'll be posting pictures soon

Just for your information: I have made a folding propeller with 30mm hub diameter which fits the Nucking Futs perfectly. Works very well and efficient with a 2217 outrunner 1000-1500KV.

RC Plane Folding Propeller 6 to 9 inch
by CG-Tech

Nice. I also use printed propellers.

is it possible to put a inside view picture of the model so i know how you have set it up thanks callum

hi im just wondering what motor you recommend i want something brushless but not sure on using the rc car motor on it

I am upscaling to 135% and planning to use a 7+mm arrow shaft for a spar. I believe a 1800Mah 4S pack will fit tightly. I'm starting the prints now. I'm hoping for a similar performance on the slightly larger size. I'm kind of hoping for something similar to the Rifle 1M.
We'll see what happens. :)

I ran into one snag. The horizontal stab won't fit on my bed at 135% due to the supports on the tips. I will have to see if I can remove them off. Other than that, it is looking ok. Everything else seems to go so far. I have the wing finished printing. I'm off to work, so maybe this evening I can figure out the stab.

tahustvedt, can you post the stab without the end supports, possibly? :)

Wing and Hstab is printed and assembled. Now starting on the fuselage.

Very nice! Is it finished now? I hava made two of them already (which both fly really well) and right now, I am printig the big-wing version at 130%. At 130%, the horizintal stabilizer fits perfectly on my prusa MK3.
What are your printer settings? For 130%, I print with 0.2 layer height and 0.6mm extrusion width.

It is. Haven't flown yet. I posted it as a make. I edited the horizontal stabilizer in Fusion and removed the tip tabs. Printed fine. Sorry.. I didn't see the rest of your question...

135% printing at 0.2 layer height and 0.8 ext width.

What printer do you have? and does it still fit on a 200mm x 200mm x 200mm printer? Can you elaborate on what materials you are using? Like servos motor, etc. I would like to have a bit more room.

I'm printing on an Anet A8. I have modified my printer a little. The build volume is 220x220x250. I've started printing the wing and I'm almost finished with it. So far I don't see any issues getting the parts printed as the highest height seems to be 218mm. This was the center sections of the wing at 135%. The wing is looking good. I will post a make once I have it printed with pictures. I don't expect it to be super-fast (if it flies), but I do expect it to be a bit easier to see. I'm printing the wing in yellow PLA and the fuselage in black PLA. Being I have nearly a full spar with a carbon arrow shaft, I've printed my wing it 3 top and bottom layers. I plan to print the fuselage with 4 or 5 bottom layers for the nose section to support the motor mount. I haven't checked diameter of what I need for a spinner yet.

Thanks for your reply Jim. I would like to see the result :)
Good luck, and it's fun building.

I posted a make. Now to mount the motor, servos, and other electronics. Maiden will be soon.

Just did the maiden flight with my COX-engine Nucking Futs. Man that thing is a blast! You did an absolutely outstanding job, it flies and handles like a drem. Here's the video footage:

Awesome. That's so great to see. Feel free to post remixes of the parts you modified.

by far the best design that is on Thingiverse.

Hi! Fuselage02 part need support for print?

Hmm...I do not understand how these partitions will be printed without support.

Just do it. It's caller bridging. There mightbe slight sagging but that's normal. It will print fine. Support here is wasted material.

How did you manage to get such a small flight weight of the model? I print a trial small aileron part, it weighs 8 gr as the simplify3d calculated. The total weight of the model simplify3d shows more than 500gr with 0 infill ((((.

Something is wrong. My latest print weighs 370 g including motor, servos and battery.

PLA test 20x20x20mm cube printed on my Ender 3 with http://filamentfrenzy2.wixsite.com/filamentfrenzy/packages PLA profile in HIGH DETAIL mode weighs 4 gr

PETG test 20x20x20mm cube printed on my Ender 3 with http://filamentfrenzy2.wixsite.com/filamentfrenzy/packages PETG profile in HIGH DETAIL mode weighs 5 gr

I am a big noob in 3d printing.Can you tell me what weight the model shows your program before printing? Maybe I shouldn’t believe the calculations made by Simplify3d ?

IF you print it with one perimeter with 0,4 mm extrusion width and no infill it will be light enough.

Thank you !!!
Now I understand the value of the parameter "Outline/Perimeter shells" and weight is obtained 250 grams! )

Perhaps the reason for the plastic PETG ... I try to print 2 parts with the same settings of PETG and PLA and compare the actual weight obtained.

Comments deleted.

Silly question, but what should I use for the elevator control rod? The rod I have in my bits box is too big and I don't think would bend through anyway. Is wire/cable the way to go?

1 mm piano wire should fit. It might be hard to get through some points the first time it's pushed through.

You can also use 1 mm steel cable. It's a good idea to tin the ends of the cable with a soldering iron if a cable is used. I have tried steel cable in mine.

If the channel isn't open enough for anything to go through then you need to improve your print settings.

Brilliant thank you, I'm just printing now, with big wing latch version. I'm a little unsure about what a couple of the parts are for, Wing04 and Aileronhinge01 specifically, do I need them?

Seems a great design so far, really looking forward to seeing it in the air!

Wing04 is a reinforcement for the hole in the rear of the wing with screw attachment (not latch). Aileronhinge is the middle hinge point for the wing. You need it.

Thanks for all your help. One more quick question, is there a reason for using multiple 60mm carbon fibre wing joiners instead of a single long spar?

Often the spar is a tight fit, either because the carbon tube is oversize or the hole prints undersize, so it's easier to insert pieces a short length. The wing is strong enough that it only needs the reinforcements on the joints. It would even work without any reinforcements at the joints, but ti's easier to join parts with somethig to guide it.

you can always chuck in a carbon rod to a drill motor and run it through the hole to loosen it up a bit. Ask me how I know... :)

Hi. Absolutely great model you have designed! All parts came out nearly perfect on my Prusa i3 MK3 and they all fit very well. In my opinion, this design is better than some planes from 3DLabprint. If the weather is ok, mine will fly on a COX TeeDee this Weekend.

Thanks for NF, I have built and flown it and it behaves typically for a pylon. I will
test it with 3S soon.
Greetings from Austria

Good Morning,
unfortunately, something does not suit me, it looks like one of the parts has become too short. Thus, the transitions do not fit at all.
Greetings from Germany

Haven't you accidentally scale the piece part in slicer?

I am building this plane since yesterday. The design of the model is excellent. A lot is smart details and very well designed. Instead of the 2mm carbon rod I used toothpicks which should work as well. I printed the fuselage with double layer and the weight turns out at 80gr. Slightly heavy but very strong. I need to buy some small servos and then I will see how it flies.

The stiffening ribs inside the wing are double seems also very robust.

I wonder if it could be modified for a wider wing then it would surely be nice for some slope soaring at medium winds.

Overall a superb design!

hi im just wondering what motor you have used thanks Callum

@Florian1980, beautiful color combination!

Comments deleted.

hi the aileron R or L file ar missing

Mirror the model in your slicer.

Thans for the quick response found it

Would you be able to post an STL for the spinner that you have modelled in CAD. I am currently printing two of these for friends who intend to use them as a small slope soaring glider. We just want to stick a spinner on the nose without a propeller. Brilliant model by the way – thank you for your hard work

I am looking to fly this as a glider as well. Would you recomend it to be flown as a glider or as a normal airplane?

Added a basic spinner cone shape now.

Thank you so much

hi the stabilo file is not correct or missing !

Thanks for letting me know. I have reuploaded it now.

Which battery size would you recommend?
How big and heavy should the battery be?
I will install the 30A ECS with the banngood innerrunner.
Do you have any experience here?
Which spinner size do I need? 30mm 32mm?

A battery that is flat is best because ofthe narrow nose. This one should be great: https://www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-11_1V-1500mAh-3S-25C-Lipo-Battery-T-Plug-p-959905.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

I have one of those batteries on order myself to use in the NF.

I also have a battery that looks almost exactly like this ine in size, and it only just fits in the nose: https://www.banggood.com/ZOP-Power-11_1V-1300MAH-20C-Lipo-Battery-T-Plug-p-990755.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

A 100-130 g battery is probably going to be great.

30 mm spinner.

Hey, I think there is maybe a problem?

I could not download your data.


NoSuchKeyThe specified key does not exist.zipfiles/aa/95/b0/2e/59/Nucking_Futs_-_Speed_400_Pylon_Racer_-_RC_plane.zipA6717869B31F382FN3DZ39iaWU2XVCMgC3ByrQye+GZXAuXnJxO06JWOV4W2Odaz5bauUkYHJWDEkZACzfk+yeGatEI=


Something's wrong with Thingiverse. All the indivudial files are there, but not the Thingiverse-generated Zip. You can download it from my Cults account instead if that's easier: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/nucking-futs-rc-pylon-racer-speed-400-class

My Cults account has a few extra models that I charge money for as well.

Very nice design, thanks for that.
Too bad that you can only print it if the printer has min 300mm height. Would have been really great if the parts were printable on prusa i3 or ender 3 (250mm height max.)
Parts with a maximum height of 220mm or 230mm would be amazing.

It can be printed on a printer with 172 mm max height. Only the parts ending with "largeprinter" need a large printer, but they are optional versions that reduce the parts count.

Fuselage01, 02, 03 and 04 are for typical Prusa size printers.

Ok man that's perfect! Thank you

This looks Very Nice (Nery Vice?)! Have you had a chance to test fly yet?

Thanks for the nice design, I have built and flown the q400 pylon racer, it was a blast.
However the pla warped in the sun.
What material do you use?

Indeed it is going to be Nucking Futs :)