Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro - IKEA Lack Enclosure

by DAVYcr Jan 15, 2019
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PLA/PETG for parts? -- Also : is there add on's to the bottom feet to raise machine higher more eye level when sitting ? i noticed the lack tables are a bit short. Or would you suggest just printing the lower riser to "boost" the bottom table some off the ground ?

I used PLA for this, although PETG would work fine. If you wanted to raise the entire setup higher, I would buy a third table and trim the legs a bit to place in the middle.

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bonjours, je sais que ça a était promis mais est il possible d'avoir les taille de la visserie en système métrique car la conversion et difficile pour l'achat des vis merci

It is! I used the cheaper, non-gloss version (https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/tables/coffee-side-tables/lack-side-table-black-art-20011408/) but after checking the dimensions of both it looks like the one you posted just has a different finish. Should be good to buy those!

Have two lacks and an ender 3, printing parts currently. Just need to get my plexiglass in. Best design for these enclosure in my opinion. Will post make once finished!

Can't wait to see it! Let me know if you find anything you'd like improved or changed on the design :)

Ended up mixing your design with a few others and it turned out amazing!
I'll have to post a remix when I have some spare time.
Thanks for the inspiration!

Love to hear it, thanks for the kind words! Would love to see your make as well!!

I'm currently assembling and don't really like the upper risers. You can only use the two screws on the side which doesn't seem secure. I'll be printing 4 more lower risers and using them on the top as well as putting 4 more stackable inserts for the top table. This way I'll be able to remove just the top of the table and the legs individually.
How did you attach the upper risers?

For the upper risers, I first screwed them onto the underside of the top table surface using the [#]10 x 1-1/2" Flat Head Phillips Wood Screws (1 per riser). Then I secured the individual legs to each riser using the [#] 8 x 3/4" Flat Head Phillips Wood Screws (2 per riser).

As for security, the entire assembly was pretty stable for me once the plexiglass was installed. If you feel some wobble from the single screw into the underside of the top table surface, you could add a drywall anchor to help reduce motion (there's a counterbore at that surface that should allow for them and still have a smooth mating surface). Hope this helps.

Hi! Nice enclosure but I have doubts about this part: do i have to print other 4 corner inserts for the upper risers too? or i fix them to the table just with screws? can you add a picture?
thank you so much!!

My experience here was different for the upper. I had to use a #8-#10 1" anchor (home depot # 803812) to get the #10 screws to bite the wood. To recess the head of the anchor I used a countersink.

Yeah I think I am having the same problem, the #10 screws just slide right into the legs and table. Is using a #8 anchor the same as just using a #8 screw? Because I would rather just take back the #10 screws and get #8 screws


i don't understand where goes the "Stackable Corner Inserts" part ? do you have nay photos to show where this is placed ?


The four corner inserts are screwed into the top of the table where your printer sits.

I'll upload a photo on Friday after work.

Me neither, I do not get it, photo would be nice and would clear a lot.

The four corner inserts are screwed into the top of the table where your printer sits.

I'll upload a photo on Friday after work.

I think I figured it out, "stack_corner_insert" goes inside riser_lower to prevent top table falling from bottom, am I right?

Here's the image of the corner inserts in case you still need it: https://i.imgur.com/i4WdhWV.jpg

Exactly! The corner insert is screwed into the surface the printer is on and the lower riser fits over it to prevent the top table from moving. It's designed that way so you can take the top table off when you feel the need to for cleaning/maintenance/etc without having to unscrew anything.

oooh great !! i will put the enclosure against a wall so with that i'll be abble to put a rear glass easily :)

Looks good! Very similar to mine :)

Here's the image of the corner inserts in case you still need it: https://i.imgur.com/i4WdhWV.jpg

Have you noticed a significant drop in noise once it is enclosed? I live in a small apartment and the steppers can be noisy at night. I am wondering if I need to add some sound proof padding to the plexiglass to kill the noise.

The enclosure will quiet the whole thing down some, but it won't be silent. Dampening feet on the printer will help, because the vibration will transfer right through the enclosure.

Will it cause any issues to keep the power supply mounted on the printer?

The PSU was noticeably warmer inside the enclosure so I moved it outside. I'm not sure if the temperature difference inside the enclosure is actually enough to damage the PSU, but I personally feel better having it mounted on the underside

This may be a dumb question but where do the stackable corners go if you have the upper and lower risers on allready

The four corner inserts are screwed into the top of the table where your printer sits.

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hello, I would like to print your creation but is it possible to have dimensions in metric units ?

Hi - I do plan on adding versions accommodating metric units but it may be a few months until they're available unfortunately due to my current workload. I'd recommend checking out the design this was remixed from (Swiers_3D) as that is metric based.

Swiers_3D's enclosure stated it's tall enough to accommodate for the damper feet that a lot of people have printed. Does this one?

I do not have dampeners on my printer, but the height of the risers in this remix is the same as the original. So if they fit in Swier's version, they should fit in mine. I'm not home so I can't give you an exact measurement, but I would guess there is ~3/4-1" clearance.

I did some rough estimating. Based on the glass sizes you have listed, it would be about 1/2" too short with the dampers installed. I took your bottom risers and added an inch to the bottom to raise it up a bit and then some. When I print them out and test them, I'll let you know how it goes and, if ok, I'll throw those risers in the remix.

Awesome, looking forward to seeing it!

Hi quick question when installing the legs to the table top there's an included screw that has a divider in the middle, I might be having a brain fart but did you use different screws than the ones included to attach the legs? I can seem to reconcile how you managed to attach the spacer and the included screws.

I didn't end up using any of the hardware included with the Lack tables. For the part in the attached picture:

  1. Screw in the riser to the table using a [#]10 x 1-1/2” Flat Head Phillips Wood Screw.
  2. Screw in the table leg to the riser using 2x [#]8 x 3/4" Flat Head Phillips Wood Screws.

Excellent thanks for the quick reply, appreciate ya.

Im new to 3d printing, love the design, but im finding the printed parts brittle and split when i put screws in them. Are there any special settings to wall thickness or infill?

Hey there - I assume these are the screws that enter the table leg sides? If so, I did have that issue on my first run of prints. What I found is that if you are using a power drill, don't fully drive the screw into the printed part. Use a hand screwdriver for the last few turns of the screws and stop as soon as the part is flush with the leg. Because of the orientation of the print, the part is strong when there's a force normal to the top but not when there's a force normal to the side. I had no issues with 25% infill using this method.

I've uploaded a quick video that I hope will help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Thli96pHhuU

Will this work with 3mm plexiglass? 1/8" is 3.175 from what google tells me.. :)

Yep - this will work with 3mm plexiglass. I've attached a photo to show the only part of the design that considers the depth of the plexi. The depth here is 3.375mm to accommodate resolution tolerance (3.175mm +- .2mm). In my opinion the difference is pretty much negligible (would be able to move inwards an additional .175mm).

Looks to be a really solid start. Any problems with the full range of motion for the bed?

I haven't run into any problems, but I also haven't printed any files large enough to know for sure. I will try to test the y-axis extremes at some point this week and let you know.

The cables will bind on the back or the bed will hit the door with an ender 3 pro - I designed a cable pocket as a solution to this problem: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3624551 . Mount this to the back of your enclosure and it'll give you a full range of motion for your printer cables.

Ikea Lack Enclosure Cable Pocket

I'm also curious about counter-weighting the whole thing to reduce wobble. Right now my Ender 3 Pro is on my welding table, which weighs several hundred pounds, lol. Since you're using hardware for pointing it should help with stability and I have to imagine it would be reasonably simple to attach a metal / stone plate to the underside of the surface the printer is on to bulk things up.

For my setup I have the PSU mounted on the underside of the base table, 1.5" corner braces on each leg (8 total), and the enclosure is sitting on a rugged floor. Those three things with the added weight of the upper table and I have no wobble.

If you're placing it on a hard-surfaced floor you could always add rubber feet to the bottom table as well, although I'm not sure how that stacks up against a rugged floor. I would just be weary of mounting anything too heavy to the underside of one of the Lack tables because of the material they're made out of.

Good to know. Curious on the reasoning behind putting the PSU underneath. Is it just to cut down on airflow inside of the enclosure?

When it was in the enclosure, the PSU was getting noticeably warm during prints even without a back panel. I'm an hour into a print right now and it's as cool as when the printer is off!

Awesome, thanks! Since you don't have a back panel, I don't imagine it would be an issue, and it seems like unless you're /really/ pushing the bed to its forward and reverse absolute limits (like, beyond the nozzle being able to be above the bed) it /should/ fit.