Quick tool change for Creality CR-10 / Ender series

by ProperPrinting Jan 20, 2019
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Could this be made compatible with a bondtech direct drive conversion?

That's certainly possible. However, I'm working on other projects (including a different drive system) so I don't get to it soon. I can deliver all files needed if someone wants to modify it to fit the Bondtech direct drive.

I'm afraid that this is nearly useless:
-If you adapt a laser had: which software shall controll it (of course, one can program nearly everything, but on an ender/CR10? You can?)
-CNC machining: see above
I'm really sure: This is nonsense!!!!

Software found right on this site for free: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:770081

Img2gco -- Image to gcode converter for repraps with lasers zip-tied to them

Hi uli_o,

This Thing is only designed to address the mounting of the tools; the full process of converting a 3D printer to a DIY CNC machine is well beyond the scope of one part on Thingiverse. Some very kind users have made big how-to projects but it takes a lot of work. Take a look around youtube or look at the links below.

I understand that you may be new and eager, and clicked on this contribution only to be disappointed that it's not as straightforward as you expected. But there was no need to be so rude and ungrateful for someone's work. The 3D printing community is one of the most helpful I've ever encountered. You would be met with kind explanations if you had simply and politely asked for more information about such a conversion project.

That being said, if you are interested in doing this to your printer, there are some videos showing how some people have done it. Here's one example after a simple search: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m46Ex1mc3CU

And here are some reviews of CNC milling software: https://www.downloadcloud.com/cnc-router-software.html, although as the first video shows, there are ways to do this using ordinary slicing software.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for your question. I have made this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3681180 but this is for the swappable hot end connection (which will work without the connector, so connected directly). In my latest video I've used an updated version of this holder which I'm going to upload soon. I can make a version without the swappable connection as well which is probably a good idea.

Swappable E3D v6 hot end

Hi ProperPrinting,

I added https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3866258 to the collection ;-). This is a remix so you can use the swap base om MGN12H based x-axis.


Quick swap base ( from ProperPrinting ) to MGN12H_mount
by GylRon

Thanks for sharing your design! I added both of your designs to the list of tools and bases :)

Hi ProperPrinting,

Can you add this remixed toolholder ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3865014 ) to the list of tools for your swapsystem? The original had no lever, which caused the tools to fall out of the holder as mentioned in the comments. I remixed it to a version with lever. Thanks in advance.
Credits to Brand_799

tool holder wall mount for ProperPrinting with lever
by GylRon

Thanks for sharing this! I have added a new section with accessories and added your remix and the original to the list.

you can print this only in PLA?

I have used Nylon and PETG because it won't break as easy. Recently someone has posted a remix of a more durable version which is possibly more sufficient for PLA https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3817579. I haven't tried it but it looks promising.

more durable quick change tool holder

How much of Y-build volume do you lose with this upgrade?

The Y-build volume is reduced by approximately 20mm.

hey there,
just converting my printer to your setup. nice work btw :)

can you do me a favour an upload a step file of your v4_base? i wanna try to add a permanent BL touch on the side (or better said a rail so its modular) but fusion360 is making it kinda hard for me to modify your mesh.
i could completly redraw it but i guess this way might a bit easier ;)

thx aggain!

edit: nvm, found it further down in the comments

if anyone needs a "permanent" BL-Touch mount, see my remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3813267
Design is extendable for other probes as well (as loong there is room, which is quite tight)

Quicktool change probe mount (BL-Touch included)

Will this also work on a 10s-pro?


This projet is amazing!!!! Anyone can make support for BLTouch?

Thanks for all

Can I use this also on my Tevo Tornado?

I don't have any experience with the Tevo, but based on the pictures and the fact that it uses the same 2020 profile, I would say yes. I cannot say this for sure though. There's one way to find out ;)


I'll be adapting this design to work on the Ender 5 together with (among others) the M3D QuadFusion head. As such, Y-axis real estate is already at an all-time high as long as I keep the wheels on. If I drill the stock plate and mount the QF straight to it, I already lose 20mm of build volume on Y because the nozzle sits 20mm further from the carriage.

To compensate this, I am removing the inner frame braces and replacing them with L-shaped T-Slot inserts. I'm also raising my X gantry and bed by 25mm, making them level with the top of the frame and significantly increasing X-axis travel and adding some Y-axis travel in the rear, as the carriage wheels will now clear the Z-axis assembly. This will restore me to ~225mm of Y-axis travel and up my X-axis travel to a full 300mm, netting me 300x220x300mm build volume.

I figure I'll have no trouble remixing this, myself. The only thing I think will need any adjustment at all, is I'm pretty sure I'll need to re-position the belt stops.

My question to you is this: Whatever I decide to mount to this, how much further out from the gantry 2020 is it going to sit as opposed to the stock carriage plate? I'm really not trying to lose the Y-axis travel I just worked really hard to win back, heh...

Okay. Upon watching the video, I answered my own question. Unfortunately, this loses too much on the Y-axis and won't work for me.

Thanks for watching the video and it is indeed a drawback that the built surface is reduced in the y-direction. I have added this upgrade to the Ender-3 too and this is still not a huge problem for me, but I am looking for methods to solve this.

Can you make a bracket where the BLTouch is mounted on left side of the hotend?

I am planning on making a video about active bed leveling in the future and I’ll make a holder for that. If you can’t wait, someone has made a swappable hot end with a BTTouch on it https://www.thingiverse.com/make:657702 Maybe this will work. I will get back to you once I've made something :)

Swappable hot end for Creality CR-10

Which grinder are you using ? the most used and most copied is the Dremel!

so it would be a great thing to put an dremel inside.
is just a simple thread

The grinder I have used for this thing is a very cheap grinder which I do not recommend buying. I had this one laying around and used it for showing off :P I have used a grinder from RS components for making PCB’s as you can see here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3645292 There is a “third party” design of a Dremel holder made by LegitLee which fits this quick tool change https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3618890

Grinder with swappable system
Dremel Tool Mount for Quick Change Adapter

which softwares are the best to use the laser engraver and a drill ?

At this point I have used Inkscape together with the J-tech photonics laser tool for laser cutting and Lightburn for etching. I have used Flatcam for making PCB’s and it is possible to drill with this software. Keep in mint that you’ll go into the negative z-direction which is not supported by the default firmware so you have to upgrade your firmware. I ran into that problem making this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNBvk5W7Cs8 I am planning to do some experiments with the CAM module of Fusion 360. I know that there are some tutorials regarding that on YouTube.

Does the laser you use etch glass? If so, can you share what you used and the software?

I have not tried this yet but I'm afraid that this module hasn't got enough power. A stronger laser will do. The software I use in the YouTube video I have made is Inkscape together with the J-tech photonics laser tool. More information about that can be found in the description of that video found here https://youtu.be/NSKOwG8NA9Y. However, for engraving glass, I would recommend Lightburn which I am experimenting with lately and works very good. This tool costs $40,- which I think is reasonable and you can use a trial version without limits for 30 days. https://lightburnsoftware.com/

Can you upload all of the step files? Excellent work

Yes of course, thanks. I have zipped the files because step files compress very well. Please let me know if you need anything more e.g. the files of the swappable hot end. Good luck!

would this work on the Ender 3?

Thanks a lot for your question! A colleague of mine has the same printer and he was willing to test this for me. I have done some minor modifications to make it fit both the CR-10 and the Ender and updated this thing. So, to answer your question: Yes it would ;)

Can you upload the f3d file for the mount itself? Would like to adapt to another printer. Thanks!

Thank you for the interest in the design! You can find the file in the attachment of this message and don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. Good luck adapting it to the other printer and please share the result once it's finished :)

very cool i love it, please make an adjustable pen holder for making drawings and pcb's.... :)

Thanks for your comment! I have noted this because I like the idea. I have planned a couple of projects the coming weeks but after that I will dive into this :)

yeah drawing is mostly aesthetic of cause (maybe useful for logos and such maybe with a paint pen or maybe marking up a flat sheet of metal for cutting with another tool) but because you can put a marker in and use it to make printed circuit boards it becomes quite powerful for the hobbyist.

I haven’t thought of marking sheets of metal with this idea. This can indeed be very useful! I recently saw a YouTube video by Thomas Sanladerer which shows the method of making PCB’s with a pen as you describe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sL0LZFcNaow. This would be definitely cool to do with the tool change! One of my planned projects will actually be about making PCB’s but with a small die grinder. This way I can drill the holes too :)

' how I came up with this idea ' Sure you didn't just see this other wheel, before reinventing it? :) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2676882

Just kidding, tool changers are a known thing..

CR10 Quick Release for Hot End and Laser Engraver

"how I came up with this idea" is actually how I came up with it. After I came up with it I started searching for tool changers and found a couple but these were different than the idea I had. The idea is based on the camera tripod as I show in the YouTube video. I have to say that the design you have shared looks indeed a lot like my design and you can take my word for it that this is the first time seeing it. I try to be as honest as possible and if I am inspired by someone else's idea I will definitely mention it like I did with some other designs I made. For example https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3479256 and https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3376638

I will be the last person pretending to have invented the tool changer for a 3D printer ;) Thanks for your comment though, I think it is important that credit is given to whom deserves it. Next time I will do more research :)

Fully mechanical camera slider
CR-10 Dual Z axis upgrade

' is actually how I came up with it. ' ' you can take my word for it that this is the first time seeing it.' As I was saying just kidding, the other one doesn't have 'tool changer' etc even in the title so it doesn't come up easily in searches, so most people haven't seen it. I know it's there but I still have to find it in my collections, can never remember what words are actually in the title to try and search it.. Just funny they ended up so similar, but not really that surprising these types of tool changer systems are somewhat common in other applications.

Yes it is indeed funny that they ended up so similar. At first I did not know the exact name of this kind of mechanism either so I am happy that the research I did turned out that my design comes up in searches by finding the suiting name :)

I have had that other mount for a while( a year+), Your's is a smaller foot print which is nice. Only time will tell how yours comes out but it should be great. I just downloaded the V2 parts

I've been using PLA+ on the quick change mount that Ive had for about a year now. Your's is a lot smaller foot print than the one I found on thingiverse and printed. I'll download yours and give it a try

Thanks, I am looking forward to your findings!

I cant seem to keep the peg that the cam lock sits on from breaking. I've printed two of them and both have broken fairly easily. First one was PLA+ and the second was PETG.

Hi, I have just uploaded an updated design which is stronger than the original. I have printed it out of PLA and it turned out very good to my opinion. Hopefully this version works a lot better for you :)

Sorry to hear that. I just came up with a possible improvement which I will design and test in the coming days with PETG and PLA. What I did to prevent breakage is not only to drill the lever out with an 8mm drill, but to tighten everything with the M4 bolt, nut and washer. If this is tightened well than you should be able to apply some force to it. But, the stronger the part the better so thanks for your feedback and I will dive into it shortly.


I really like your design, and big ups for sharing it.
However I am facing one problem: Clearances in the models are so tight that I've just bronken the first print. I cant even image how can you close the handle, because I have difficulties to put in the Holder in an open position.



It is true that the clearances are very tight. I have done this intentionally because of the small tolerances. I used an 8mm drill to widen the hole of the handle a little. If this does not work, you can consider sanding the base part down a bit but this was not needed for me.

I think that the risk of the holder not being able to hold properly over time is too big when the clearance gets too large. However, I have not tested this since the method of drilling it out afterwards works for me but I will take a look into this. Thanks for your comment, this will help further development of this holder.

Regards, Jón

I believe I have got a fix for PETG print. I ended up modifying the handle slightly as to not bind up and now it locks in great for me. I can do another remix or I could send you the file to try out and maybe add to the files if you would like.

Also reading your other comment about the z-axis support bracket I have designed z-axis support in Fusion 360 that also contains a top mount spool holder that I have not uploaded to Thingiverse yet I can send you this file as well if you would like to check it out. I wouldn't mind an engineers eye to see if you can spot any flaws with the design for strength.

It uses half-inch rod threaded 1/2-13 on each end or can use all thread 1/2-13 rod instead if one doesn't have access to threading dies.

P.S. I just noticed the (add file) button on here I will try it out.

Note the Z brace was one of the very first things I ever made with Fusion 360 it is a mess of sketches and extrusions and it was modelled in Imperial sizes. And since its a bit of a mess, my laptop running an I5 processor does take some time to open the model as well.

Thanks for your effort and I have taken a look into your designs. About the lever, I added the fusion file of my version to this message so all the features can be adjusted. I will keep my own file because I have the adjustable source files of this one and if more people are facing similar issues I will create a new version. For now I am happy that yours works great!

About you z-axis stop: it looks good. I have a couple of remarks/suggestions. First, I would not place all these little fillets because the printer does little to nothing with them, there is always a fillet of the radius of the nozzle already and the gcode becomes smaller. Second, I think the side on which the spool is screwed on is too thin. I don't think if you place a 1kg spool on it that is will remain horizontal. Third, there are two very thin sides where this large nut goes for the spool holder goes (almost 0,4mm thin). You could make this thicker or rotate this hexagon 30 degrees. And last, I would line out the holder with the back side of the frame this will make it sturdier and it will look better I think. I always try to keep my functional designs as simple as possible, this increases toughness and is better for printing.

I think the idea of combining a spool holder with z-braces is great, thanks for sharing!

I just realized why I made the profile so small on the hexagonal cut out was so it would fit the spool holder that comes with the cr-10 since there is such a small length of thread on the tube for the nut. oh and I forgot to say thank you for sharing your fusion file for the changer arm. I enjoy looking through the history to see how you designed it. It will be a good way to see how to utilize features of fusion together to make features of the part. The file is so clean compared to mine I hope to one day be able to design files that are that efficient.

thank you for your input. I see what you are saying to rotate the hex 30 deg. that is a good idea. and yea I did go a bit crazy with the fillets. ha ha. It was one of my first designs and I did them more out of aesthetics than anything. but I didn't really think about it making the gcode file bigger. And yes it does kinda droop a bit with a heavy spool on it. I am thinking that it would not be a bad idea to extend it out a bit farther. I did add the tapered rib down the center to help it with stability since my first one didn't have that and was very wobbly. Thank you for taking the time to look over my design to give me some good feedback and it was my pleasure to share this design with you.

I just realized why I made the profile from the back to the hexagonal recess so small was so that I could use the spool holder the printer comes with since there is not much length of thread on the tube for the nut to hold on to.

No problem. I just realized that you can print the thread of the spool directly instead of making a thin wall and use the nut. I have measured it and I think it is M30×1,5. I managed to print M4 thread so I think it is possible to print this. Creating thread with Fusion 360 is rather easy. You just make a hole of in this case 30mm and create a thread. Don't forget to check the modeled box. I think this will look better and the whole profile can be made thicker.

that is a good idea. I did not think of that. I have had to print modelled threads for work. I have even modelled a plug for a tapered pipe thread that I can place on a model and combine cut bodies with to make a pipe thread fitting. however, when I printed it out I did need to chase the tread with a tap but it made for a very smooth thread after chasing with the tap. It looked like it was a machined thread.

I have attached the 1/2-14 NPT model I use to make the threads. The threads should work ok if need to but it does require tapping to make them good to a thread gauge.

Thanks for sharing and hopefully the thread in the spool holder works out for you.

Looks like a fun setup. Care to share how you are controlling these new implements and the software used? I've been toying with the laser idea but thought that the frame was too light for any serious milling.

Thanks for your comment. It is indeed a lot of fun! I am planning on making a Youtube video and blog post about this project and I can make an instruction about these implements and the software. I'll keep you informed. About the frame: It probably is too light for serious milling (like milling hard wood or metals). However, I am convinced that it is suited for light operations such as milling and drilling PCB's and engraving PMMA or aluminium. I must be mentioned that I have my z-axis upgraded to make the gantry much stiffer and more accurate. I took this for granted so I forgot to mention it. I have designed a Z-axis upgrade based on an existing one and I will place this upgrade on Thingiverse soon.