Magnetic Triangular LED Lights (Nanoleaf)

by BiscuitsOnTheFloor Jan 21, 2019
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Hello, can you fix the magnet holes? Makerbot Print is slicing them patchy, at best. The option you list is not available in this software.

No, because that would cause it to be too thick to function.

I printed this, is there any way you can make the lid and back more than 1 layer thick? Makerbot is incapable of doing proper 1-layer first layer faces :( It comes out as just strings.

Hi. Nice idea with the pin connectors. If I understand your wiring right, the every leaf has ONE input and TWO outputs for the data line of the WS2812, correct? But that means if I connect two leafs at the outputs, that these are addressed as one, correct? (I would upload picture if I could...) E.g.: leaf1 -> leaf2 is the same as leaf1 -> (leaf2, leaf3), which means lighting up leaf2 with a color will also light up leaf3 with the same color, right?

The has to be taken into account when designing patterns, I guess. Maybe a possible solution could be to use these dual row 3 pin headers (male and female), where the male ones are connected i parallel and the female ones just the upper row or the lower one, depending on the side they are connected. Could this way work to build up a chain even when connecting two leafs to one?

You can still connect them in a non linear configuration (with both outputs of one leaf populated,) But the leaves connected on either side of the split will just light up the exact same way. You could probably do something with the connectors, however that would increase the height by a fair bit which is the opposite of one of my goals when designing this. If you'd like to do that and post a remix the cad files are already in a zip in the "thing files" section.

I tried and came to the conclusion that it would be best every leaf would have an own little controller (Attiny84 or 85). However, that would also raise the power needed for each leaf.
I made an own design, which is a mixture of both your idea and the original design. The magnets are sitting inside the top case instead.
However, I'm still not satisfied with the connectors. I found some magnetic 3 pin (and 4 pin) pogo pin connectors on Alibaba. They are similar to those Apple used for its power cords. However, I haven't found them on Banggood or Aliexpress. Will give them try as soon as I could get them for a reasonable price...

That is also what I originally planned with the magnetic connectors, but they were too cost prohibitive for the scope of this project. You may consider getting "round pin headers." I have played with them since I made this design and they have proved to be much more durable than standard pin headers.

I'm trying to print this project, but I have trouble with lid and body doesn't fit.
I printed a xyz cube to verify my printer and no problems on this side, any idea ?anybody else have this problem ?

Might be an elephant foot on the print as it works for me.

I love the project!
I'm thinking about doing it, but I have doubts about what this is:
  + 1 wire driver of the same size as a single strand of the 3 wire driver.

  • Power Wire:
         + 2 copper wire conductor. May be tricky to find in white, you can sleeve 2 strands of appropriately sized wire in white paracord to match the tiles.
  • Power Connectors:
         + Male USB A connectors that can be soldered to. Searching "USB DIY" should bring up what you are looking for.

Could you send me an aliexpress link or similar? is that by not having pictures I do not know if they are correct.
Thank you.

Thanks for posting this, it looks awesome!

Quick question about the note: "The outer wall of the tile body requires single wall extrusions to be enabled in your slicer."

I may have forgot to do this and I had already been printing it for a few hours so I just let it go. I use Cura and I have my number of outer walls set to 3, so assuming that should've been set to 1 as I didn't see anything that specifically said enabling single wall.

I was just curious the reason that single wall extrusion should be enabled. Wasn't sure if it was to make something more convenient or if it just won't work for some reason.

You don't want to set the slicer to a single perimeter, you want to just enable thin walls or whatever cura calls it. So the walls are regular 2-4 extrusions widths but instead of skipping the part that covers the magnet it will make a single wall extrusion only there.

I'm assuming the LEDs are just bright enough to shine through white filament for the lid? Also, do you know how many panels could be connected to one controller? Looking to make 10 if possible.

Every ~6 tiles takes about 2a of current, so as long as you size your power supply correctly it shouldn't be a problem. I recommend printing two controller enclosures and only putting a controller in one, then input power from the second one on the opposite end because a long chain will probably be dimmer at the end. However, if you are not going to have the leds set to white it doesn't matter as much because they draw a lot less current.

You should take a look at this project and send yours. its another nanoleaf clone!

This is listed as a remix of that already.

Nice design. I didn't get, why you trim the 4 pin female pin header to a 3 pin header. Why not use a 3 pin female pin header right away?

Because there is no way to cut a female header without losing a pin, unlike the male headers. Try to cut one and you'll see what I'm talking about.

I really like the idea of magnets...

Is there a reason to put the controler outside a tile?

It would make a shadow in the tile you put it in, but by all means try it. Also you'd have to resolder the capacitors on the board laying flat for it to fit in a tile.

OK, I will try...


What Is the control board you are using? If it is custom can you post the instructions?

Its called a "Read the Thing Details" and you can get it from "I already put that in the thing details."