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fhuable

Camera Gimbal

by fhuable Jan 23, 2019
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IMO, this is the best project on Thingiverse. I'm working on printing it now. May I ask what your design process was when doing the gears? Any thoughts on using belts instead of direct drive? Are you willing to share the original CAD? I'd like to customize to add a guidescope to enable object tracking. I understand if no, I'm impressed with the effort that you put into this design.

Thanks :) Fusion 360 has a plugin that can generate involute gears. It's very nice and makes the process rather easy. I think timing belts would also work great and make the rig much quieter. At the time I found it easier to print gears for two reasons, 1) the timing pulleys for the most popular belts (GT2) are a bit difficult to print with a 0.4mm nozzle and 2) I didn't want to find/order/wait for the right timing belts.

What are this for "XLR type sockets" i dont see them in the first video and i really dont understan how it works from what i can see in the main image. thanks

I am using mini-XLR plugs as a means to connect/disconnect the cables to the rig. Being able to unplug the cables is really useful as opposed to having everything permanently wired up. You can get a glimpse of them in this video if you fast-forward a bit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wD33VfrTi4

Thank you for this awesome design !! I'm printing the parts right now, and I hope my 5D mak II will fit with the cables connected. I also would like to add threaded holes under the base to attach it on an X axis, would you share the F3D project ?

If you want to use 608 bearings instead of the 6000 series deep grooves, these adapters will help: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424047

608 adapters for "Camera Gimbal by fhuable"

The Nema 17 17HS8401 is strong enough to move the DSLR camera?

Yes. Easily.

Yes. Easily.

thanks guys, now i can proceed... i will post the make once finished

Boy, am I stuck..

I have almost built this unit, and still love it.. here is the thing, I have no idea as to connecting the stepper motors up, what the circuit is supposed to be, program in the Raspberry Pi, the entire part that is not listed here.. and i hope I am not too much of a pain to ask if it is available, otherwise I have basically built a tilt pan base for a camera.. and that is it..

it fits my Nikon D850 quite well

Looks like the project laserkil mentioned below explains everything pretty well.

Thanks for letting us know that your camera fits. That makes two.
D3400, D850.

I'm not the creator, but I'm about at the point where you are and I'm using this tutorial for Arduino control of the stepper motors: https://howtomechatronics.com/tutorials/arduino/diy-motorized-camera-slider-pan-tilt-head-project/

Hello, and wow... I have printed all of the parts that you had in this kit, I have also ordered the non printable items, and will b happy to say that when it is assembled it should be awesome.

I do have one question, it is connecting it up to something, for it to work, I have a few Raspberry lying around with touch screens.. will they work withit, or do I need others,, and the code.. I can do electronics quite well, I have not ever done programming.. The design is really great.. thank you for sharing it

You'll need 1) 2x stepper motors 2) 2x stepper drivers 3) a motion planner (pulse generator).
The stepper motors 1) are obvious and there are a range of solutions out there that can be used for 2) and 3).
The simplest solution would be an Arduino Nano with Grbl installed connected to two DRV8825-style drivers. This would fit on a single breadboard and cost a few dollars. You could also use a RAMPS board (3D printer mainboard) if you have a surplus one. Or, the most deluxe version, Mach3 on a PC connected to 'real' stepper drivers. Depends on how 'nice' you want to make it.
My setup is a Nano (Grbl) connected to DM422 style drivers. And a Raspi to send gcode over USB-serial.

I have 608 bearings on hand but they're undersized for the design, so I'll print an adapter for the pieces. Great design, I'm excited to get it working!

Edit: Looks like I'll also have to reprint the main M1x160 gear to fit these bearings.
Here's the modified version and the other adapted pieces if anyone chooses to go this route: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3424047

And if it helps, here's the pieces I've purchased online:

SpurGearM1x16 stainless steel replacement: https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas-hardened-steel-mod-1.0-pinion-gear-w-5mm-bore-16t-tra6489x/p661892?v=628268

2Pcs Inductive Proximity Switch (LJ12A3-4-Z-BX): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDGPSVW/


Here's a link I found to the 6000 series deep groove bearings: https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/bearing/6000-2z-skf-shielded-deep-groove-ball-bearing-10x26x8mm/4167

Or if you'd rather go for the 608 bearings (20pk): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07216D1SZ/

608 adapters for "Camera Gimbal by fhuable"

nice one! thanks for sharing.

One question, could we get a little more insight on the XLR cable wiring? It looks super clean but I've never used these connectors in a project before, and I'm curious to see how you went about that here.

Not sure what to tell you. The cable management is somewhat up to your taste. The connectors I used have 4 pins so it was convenient to route each motor into one and use the 3rd plug for both sensors. The proximity sensors have to be powered so 2 wires provide 12V power and the other two are the two signals.

Such great work! thanks for all the work! The wait has paid off!!

Great gimbal! Can I use SuperGearM1x128 instead SuperGearM1x160? (my printer have not enough area for 160mm...)

Hmm, no the two gears are not interchangeable. What is the size of your build plate? If the large gear doesn't fit on it you may also have trouble printing parts of the main assembly. The reason the 128 won't work out of the box in place of the 160 is that part of it functions as an axle and mates with the bearing. That bit is not present on SpurGearM1x128. You could meshmix this nob off of the large gear and add it to the small one. You'd also have to move the motor mount up to meet the now smaller gear. (Btw, it's also an option to just clip off one side of the gear since it's rarely desirable to rotate the axis a full 360 degrees, if your build plate is not a square)

Yep, already thinked about it... Maybe you share Fusion project, for edit? )) Thanks

Could you share the Fusion F3D ?

Thanks, I'm following you in hope you release this project since I saw it on Hackaday!

would also love the fusion file. I'm learning fusion and this project is very interesting.

Sorry for the long wait ;)

What size screws are used throughout this?

Hmm, I'll have to check. The main axis is bolted together with 2x M5x16 hex bolts (needs to be tapped) the rest uses self tapping screws. Most through-holes are 2.5-3mm with a slightly smaller hole on the receiving end. I'll make a list when I get to take it apart again.