TRS-80 Raspberry Pi Case:
Rather pleased with myself for making a (nearly) full size TRS-80ish case for my daughter's computer project I thought I'd do a couple of spins on the theme that will be, hopefully, more accessible for those who aren't in the mood to edit my 123D Design files.
This one is a case intended to fit a B-type Raspberry Pi with a few extras:
-This enclosure is intended to give you a warm retro glow
-It has room for a full size PI with plenty left over for whatever else takes your fancy
-Easy access to all the relevant ports
-Yes, there's access for the PI's microSD card without need for disassembly
-The screen bezel is sized to take a 4x3 4" LCD panel (The Pi Hut has my specific model)
-The fake floppy plate has cut-outs for activity LEDs and SD cards
-The keyboard model is intended to be removable so it can be replaced with a suitable one of those mini-keyboards that infest eBay - just be sure of your measurements!
-Bonus Raspberry Pi mock-up included - pretty accurate!
While this model is intended to be as fully functional as possible with the addition of a Pi and other parts don't feel you have to go the whole hog. You don't have to fit a screen and the model will hopefully do nicely for display.
-A printed TRS-80 screen shot, preferably laminated will do for a screen
-The keyboard.stl model is intended to be painted or replaced with a real keyboard but, again, application of an edited photo could do the job nicely.
-Feel free to scale the model smaller if you intend to use it for display only and want a faster print
My take on the Model III is fairly big so expect long print times. All parts fit within the build area of my Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus (240cm round build plate) but if your printer is significantly smaller you will need to cut the base, top, and back .stl files in half for printing. This can often be done in your slicing software without the need to fire up a full on 3D editing program.
For decent results you will need to reorient some of the .stl files in your slicer before printing. Basically lay flat what's flat before you begin, don't forget to include support where needed, and I'd suggest to print the Top.stl file tip it on it's tail-end - rather less support needed.
Please note this model was done using No1 eyeball for a TRS-80 feel. It's not an accurate copy so I'm afraid it won't do as a source for spares without a good deal of editing.
I hope you enjoy. :-)
Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus
Any (good) Anything robust
The parts should print without issue, but do be sure you've reoriented them where necessary, and added support before printing.
On the assumption you don't want to wait forever and are intending to sand-fill-sand-paint... etc for a pleasing result I'd suggest doing the larger parts in a lower resolution:
-Less time to print
-Roughness will help to key filler / paint
-Imperfections will be hidden by the above
Madness, too much time, No1 eyeball, and 123D Design.
It's a funny thing. 123D Design is dog-slow and flaky, especially with large / complex models. But it's my 3D software of choice because I've found it a devil of a lot easier to wrap my head round than anything else I've tried...
...I'll put up with it's foibles for the benefit of not wasting my life learning how to use unintuitive software that, frankly, could have done with a bit of customer R&D before release. Well done Adobe for doing the latter, shame 123D Design seems largely abandoned in favor of Fusion 360.