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OpenOcular

OpenOcular V1.1

by OpenOcular Feb 10, 2019
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Yes, the adapter will fit the XR

Just a small comment to tell you that i printed your model and it works very well.
A small ideas to improve the model : if you could add a way yo change the position of the smartphone in the Y axis when it is already clamped, it would be perfect.
Thank you for your already wonderful job .

I'm happy you've enjoyed the print! I'd love to make adjustments in the Y axis after the phone is clamped also. Perhaps the next design can incorporate this. Thanks for your feedback Kaeleak!

nice work,

what did you use to create this files?

I'm interested in creating the screw pattern and bolt that you created and use it on another project that I'm using.

The screw pattern that I'm referring to is the one one that holds the cell phone.

If you have time please share your knowledge.

Thanks for appreciating this work. I used Autodesk Inventor to design and a trapezoid shape to cut a thread path on a cylinder shape. Then I cut the top and bottom of the cylinder to create the shape.

Let me know if you need further details or help.

Hi Josue!

Great project! Already tipped for the great work. I believe everybody should do so! On my company we are working with optical systems, please let me know if you want to discuss a couple of things about your design and work. Regards!

Hello Federico,

Thank you so much for valuing this work and sending a tip! Let's discuss further - Josue@openocular.com

Hey man, I've just finished printing this, and in spite of the long screw rails significantly warping, it still assembled just fine! Seems to clamp on to things pretty well too. :)

I'm curious as to how you designed these screws? They seem to work quite well with high tolerance.

I'm happy to know the adapter worked out despite the warping. I've had several of the long screws warp myself over the time. What worked for me using ABS is:

  • enclose the printer to contain the heat (inside temp of 50 C minimum)
  • a print bed from thin Home depot sheet glass
  • a layer of purple glue stick
  • dip the glass in a tray of very thinly mixed ABS juice and drip off excess until dry before printing (the mix is no more viscus than milk)
    The resulting print sticks well to the plate without the ABS juice mix sticking to the printed part.

For the screw design, I used a trapezoid shape to cut a coil path using Autodesk Inventor with a tolerance of .25mm between the screw and the thread on center.

Here is another modified part ... I haven't checked the exact dimensions, it's just meant to illustrate the idea.

The idea: lower the smartphone clamp so that the phone can rest on the "eyepiece housing" piece's top surface. That makes the setup more stable and eliminates the light gap.

No modifications are required on the rest of the parts. Only downside is that printing the modified requires some supports (or glueing) now.

Yeah, this is a good one. I'm working on a V2 that will have a y adjustment and will eliminate the light gap as much as possible in a similar way as your illustration. Some phones have protruding camera that would need to be considered.

Good point, I had considered all smartphones to be created equally flat ;-)

Features I'd love to see on a future version:

  • A top stop so I can insert the phone and hit the correct vertical position immediately.
  • Some way of securing the phone against dropping out.
  • A version with 58 mm usable diameter to fit "big" scopes

Of course, that's a bird watcher's wishlist - I might set up the optics in a different spot every few minutes, and when I drop the phone, it could easily end up in the middle of a mud puddle, slide down an embankment into a lake, or do something similarly inconvenient to validate Murphy's law ;-)

Here's a slightly more refined variant of the modified part.

I lowered the smartphone clamp by 4.5 mm.

A make of this variant can be found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/make:613376

OpenOcular V1.1

Just completed a 6 hour print, which worked just fine. (The "frame" still remains to be printed.)

However ... the "smartphone clamp" part with the screwhole seems not to have been uploaded, Could you please add this to make completion of a print possible? Many thanks in advance! :-)

Nice catch! Thanks. When I looked, the missing file was on in the edit area but was missing the picture that comes with the upload. I'm guessing it was corrupt. It's fixed now.

Looks great, I'm going to print one right away! :-)

Hmm ... trying to slice the "frame" part so I can print it without supports, some suggestions to make this easier:

  • If the V clamp bit would extend to z = 0, the entire lower part could be printed in one piece with no supports up to z = ca. 20 mm
  • The wrap-over bit could then be printed separately without supports top-down, if they were designed slightly differently to allow this.
    -- The larger bit currently is concave to have approximately constant thickness. It would be better to fill in the concave bit of the profile and give it an easily printable 45 degree chamfer there.
    -- The smaller bit might print, but with a chamfer it would print a bit easier.

I consider your design aesthetically very pleasing, and am afraid the changes I'm suggesting might result in a less refined look, but I really like to avoid printing with supports whenever possible. (All the other parts seem to be designed for exactly that - great job! :-)

I believe this video sums up the dilemma nicely, with a bit of self-irony for good measure:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTvBOGgx48I

Keep up the great work!

Thanks for the tip on the chamfers. I very much enjoyed the linked video and will consider that in with the next design.

One of the goals here for the adapter is to avoid support completely and so any suggestions here are very much appreciated.

As for the V clamp area, the V has to align with the screw and must also be the same z thickness to avoid possibly clamping in an angle. This is because may eyepieces do not have a consistent diameter over the length of the eyepiece and one side of the clamp could make contact with a part of the eyepiece that is not contacted on the other side. Although there may be a way around this problem - lets say the entire bottom is shaved down up to the V and the screw is held in place differently.. We'll see.

I'm not too sure what is meant with the other suggestions but I'm understanding that there could be a better way to design and eliminate support with some possible chamfers. If you can, please clarify.

Thanks again for your compliments and suggestions!

Here's an illustration ... the green coloured areas are filled in.

I've only done this in the central plane, but of course the exterior profile would change around the entire circumference covered by the two overhanging parts.

That way, I could easily print the thing in 3 parts (with the 2 modified ones upside down) and glue them together, eliminating the need for supports.

I get it. Thanks for illustrating. Perhaps I'll try it soon.