#NoWalls Standard Dungeon Tiles (OpenLock/MagBall)

by TheRooster Jan 28, 2019
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what methods/supplies do you use to paint these tiles? I really like how yours look

I use cheap craft paint. I give the entire tile a spray primer coat of flat black, then I roughly paint each tile one of three colors at random. Grey, Brown, or Orange. Then I will dry brush a light grey over the top of that base color. I then give the entire tile a black wash. Finally, I hit the tiles with one more very light dry brushing with a white or off-white.

The last step is giving the entire tile a clear coat for longevity. I've been using Minwax Clear Satin Polyurethane.

Love the concept here. I printed a bunch of tiles and got the 5mm ball magnets.
Any suggestions on getting the magnets the slots easily? Any helpful tool?

I use small needle nose pliers. I stick a magnet to one side of the plier nose tip, then maneuver it up in the slot, and push it in. It's not ideal. I've considered designing and printing a tool, but haven't done it. Maybe someone else could design a 3D printable tool to make it easy to insert the MagBalls?

Once the MagBall is in, I take a short stack of more MagBalls and touch the inserted MagBall and make sure it can wiggle just a little bit. It needs to be able to rotate in place to automatically orient to a neighboring MagBall.

It takes a bit of force to get the MagBall in the slot, but once it's there, it's good to go. I also use needle nose pliers to poke the MagBalls out too.

OK Thanks. I had given up on the needle nose but using just one side works pretty good. I'm getting a process down and my thumbs don't hurt anymore :)

That sounds EXACTLY like my learning process. :) Sore thumbs > Need a tool > use needle nose by holding the ball between the sides > Can't really get enough force to push it into the slot > "Hey, the ball sticks to the pliers! I can just use one side!" > Success!

Hello TheRooster! This looks great, but I am having trouble printing it. I've just realised your instructions for the OpenLock clip don't apply to the tiles... It would be useful to hear what your settings are for the tiles themselves! Things like wall counts, infill, print speed, etc might help get me on the right track. Thanks in advance.

What problems are you having? Did you read the section on forcing the bridging angle to 45 degrees? That's a pretty big key to printing these correctly. Other than that, getting a good connection with your build plate is very important. Especially for the supports.

Thanks for the response. I did read that section, and it is almost certainly at least in part a problem with the bridging. I am using Cura to slice and I wasn't even aware of bridging as a concept, but some googling lead me to the Settings menu where I can access bridging options (none of which deal with the angle). So far additional searching is fruitless, so I suppose I may need to look into other slicing software!

I think you edited your comment to remove some pointers on other settings (possibly to ensure I got the bridging right first! :D), just wanted to let you know that it is useful information for printing noobs like me, and if it were me I'd include it in the description.

Again, thank you for your help.

I originally had a different response because I forgot that I already had the 45 degree bridging info in my instructions. So my comment didn't really make sense. The other settings I use are 0.2mm thickness, two perimeter walls, and 10% infill using rectilinear, or 20% using grid. They both give the same spacing. These settings shouldn't cause your print to succeed or fail though, that's why I focused on the bridging angle and getting a good connection to your build plate. I could tell you my speeds and temps too, but those are highly printer-specific or even filament-specific.

Maybe post a picture of your failed prints. That would help me understand what's failing.

I use Slic3r Prusa Edition for my slicing. It has a setting for bridging angle. I just assumed that other slicers would have the same setting. Looking online, it might be the bottom line direction setting. Or, just download Slic3r PE and then you can change the bridge angle directly.

Interesting! Supposedly the default setting in Cura is 45 degrees.

I downloaded Slic3r and gave it a test today. It didn't turn out well, but way better than my previous attempt. Attaching a couple of pictures.

One of the locks snapped off, which I think is because of the bed not being properly leveled (constant struggle that). The others seem kind of flimsy though... Top of the tile doesn't look great either.

Looks like you're under-extruding. The top of the tile should be nice and filled and relatively smooth. The fact that you have gaps between the lines on top points to under-extruding. I'd suggest printing some calibration cubes while dialing in your settings. The bridges also show signs of under-extrusion. The support that snapped off is okay. Those are supposed to snap off. It's best if they stick around while printing, but they're designed to snap off very easily without requiring cleanup.

Oh, and the bridges are printing in the correct direction. So that's good. No problems there.

Great! I will give Slic3r a try tomorrow (just about to sit down for a D&D session tonight) and report back with a picture... Hopefully of a success :)

Comments deleted.

love the tile texture, how did you create the base with the openlock slots? I don't see any measurements anywhere to create it in my design.

I downloaded the template STL files and then used blender to make changes. You can also measure the STL files in Sketchup and the reproduce the parts in CAD. You may even be able to import the STL files into a CAD program.

I ended up measuring the STL files in CAD. I find it odd they don't publish the CAD files used to make the STLs, or even a little diagram with measurements for that matter.

I'm really digging these, especially how well you designed the built-in supports.

I'd really like to start using these when running games, but I'm worried about what all I'm giving up by no longer being able to draw directly on the battlefield.
Do you have any suggestions on how to handle differences in height? When you play, how do you represent stairs?

I need to design some stairs. Thanks for the reminder!

For different height levels, I put tiles on some sort of spacer. You can use almost anything. I have pieces of 1" thick XPS insulation that work well. You can also use cardboard boxes, like the small USPS flat rate boxes. Legos work too. Or, you could create simple boxes and 3d print something. Basically use whatever is easiest.

But yeah, I need to design some stairs...

I have printed a set already. However, as I was looking over the bridging underneath the piece, I wondered... Why can't these be flipped over and printed upside down? It would remove almost all of the bridging. The supports would need changed, but it might make a better print.

Either way, thanks for the files. I will be painting them when it finally warms up outside.

The interior of the party would have less bridging, but the OpenLock slots would have the same amount. Really, the slots are the only critical features in a tile other than the outer dimensions.
Flipping the tiles over could affect the surface quality of the tile itself. The gaps between tiles become overhangs and bridges. I dunno. You can try it and let us know.
Right now, I think the bridging areas are pretty well isolated from the critical surfaces, or they are supported. I've had great results when printing these in bulk.

I looked back at the parts I printed. All of my printers with good part cooling setups did a great job on the bridging. It was only the prints that came off of the two printers with lackluster part cooling that had any issues. I can see how on the clips, it won't matter. I was thinking more of having a clean path to insert the magnets. I will have my magnets in a few days and then I will see. Until then I may just limit prints to the better printers. Thanks again!

Multiple printers eh? Nice.
Yeah, to print these without additional supports your printer needs to be able to bridge ~12mm or ~1/2".

Any thoughts on AoE templates that would fit into the grid easily?

Sorry, no idea. I haven't looked for anything like that. But really, anything for a1-inch grid would work.