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Redemptioner

Delta Bed Dish Calibration (Delta Radius)

by Redemptioner Jan 28, 2019
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You say "fine tune your delta radius to compensate for any bed dishing". Can you provide link to or explain what is involved in this fine tuning process on the TLM?

Hey Alexmit,

Sure mate, most of the details are in the post print info for you. Basically you print these rings, getting the first layer perfect all the way round on the outer ring. Then you print the centre ring and if it is not perfect you go into your config file for your printer control board and adjust the delta radius parameter. Need the nozzle to go down in height, take some delta radius off, so for the tevo LM it is say 156 so take 0.1 off (155.90) and ad some if it needs to come up, save and print rings again (you will have to re-level the first layer on the outer ring again after you change the delta radius). Rinse and repeat till you get all 3 rings first layers perfect without using an auto bed level. You need to be able to manually level your bed, once you have done all this the bed will never go out of calibration unless you take the printer apart :)

Thank You for your response.
It sounds like you are adjusting the end stop screws so they are exactly the same length (like the manual says) instead of going the route of the Ultimate calibration guide routine. It also sounds like you are not using the delta.grid file at all, which sounds easier in the longer run. Are you running any of the bed calibration routines or tower offset adjustments before doing this other than Z homing before a print?
Can you confirm my interpretation of your process?

You adjust the endstop screws till all the carriages are an equal distance away from the top, you square the carriages up to the top of the frame. No calibrating the offsets or auto bed level, all the towers are squared up and the bed is adjusted to match the pattern of the hotend using the nozzle without and calibration. You then use the circles to tune the bed manually for the last few adjustments. You can then use a type 4 auto bed level when you change the bed surface out. No grid file used as there is no need, I use 4mm borosilicate glass and printbite as the print surface so the bed is dead level.

To print I just home twice then print, no other changes for layer heights or filament type, I only change the print height if I change out the bed for PEI without any other changes (just use a macro to set the Z height), I run a type 4 auto, 150mm radius calibration with 32 points when using garolite though, it is not the most level surface but I don't print on it a lot. The printbite is so even from one batch to another I don't have to change Z height when changing between the different printbite beds even between black and clear versions.