Torture Test

by MAKE, published

Torture Test by MAKE Nov 6, 2012
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This was the Torture Test used during the 3D Print Weekend at MAKE HQ to test over 15 different printers. The model was designed by one of the testers during the weekend, Cliff Biffle, and is meant to push your printer to its limits!

See the results in the 3D Printing Special Issue, on newsstands November 13th. You can purchase it from the Maker Shed here: http://www.makershed.com/Make_Ultimate_Guide_to_3D_Printing_p/1449357377.htm

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I just received my maker select plus from monoprice. It printed this test well without support for most of the part. I'm actually quite surprised that the arc finished. Top surface of the arc has no issue, bottom surface shows imperfections starting at about 45 degree, which i'm expecting.
bottom surface of the overhang square edge looks really bad, but the top surface looks perfect and square

For those asking and such about support, these tests when you find them are intended to be without supports. This is the only way to find limits/issues with your printer. If you use supports you will never know what your printer can or cant do or what may need attention.

i am printing on a monoprice mp select mini v2. im new to 3d printing. i put this through my slicer software, idea maker, and when i start the print on my printer the extruder moves to the bottom left corner of the build platform and begins extruding randomly from about an inch off of the platform.... help please??

That is fine. Your printer does that to clean the print head before printing

Anyone else getting weird buldging on the square part of the print right where it ends with the cylindrical tube layers?

been printing three days now on a Monoprice select mini V2. I just successfully printed this with zero supports I did print on a raft. Printed at 190c with heavy retraction. Printed in PLA Hatchbox black.

I'm guessing this only works with support.

I am new to 3D printing, but I believe the point of the test is to print it without support and analyze where the print failed afterwards.

I honestly don't see how a "normal" FDM printer can make this part without support, especially in the severe right-angle overhang area. After a series of failed attempts (the arch kept breaking loose from my bed), I succeeded in making it with support material, 30% fill. Interesting to read the comments, I agree, there is no "default" for support material. You either turn it on or off when slicing.

You can probably keep the arch adhered with a brim. Alternatively you can turn the speed way down, and it might work. PLA sticks well, so a combination of the three would do it for sure.

Can the arch be printed without support?

It'll look better with lots of cooling, otherwise it'll be gross on the underside.

Edit: I should check dates more carefully.

This is to be printed WITH support?
Obviously the red printed model failed to print thin horizontal layer on the left side of the arch.

Ultimaker for the WIN! (It passed)

Hello I am the founder of a French site about 3D printing and I find it really good and reliable test. I can not wait to see how will react DittoPro the new 3D printer Tinkerine a model that seems very powerful ... Someone has already tested this printer here?

Hello I am the founder of a French site about 3D printing and I find it really good and reliable test. I can not wait to see how will react DittoPro the new 3D printer Tinkerine a model that seems very powerful ... Someone has already tested this printer here?

Hello I am the founder of a French site about 3D printing and I find it really good and reliable test. I can not wait to see how will react DittoPro the new 3D printer Tinkerine a model that seems very powerful ... Someone has already tested this printer here?

Appreciate this test! I've chatted with printer makers and they tweak it a little for their machine designs but it gauges things very well for a printer's capabilities. Andrew (http://3dhacker.com3dhacker.com)

Mine is printing right how, with the owl. no support. we shall see... its a KS Printrbot+ with many upgrades. im printing 150µm layers on a slowish 70mm/s and 50mm/s 25% rectilinear infill. I disagree about using manufacturers defaults. in many cases there are no manufacturer defaults. i suppose whatever was default with Slic3r but then what are the defaults? maybe they are completely useless. rather the same print parameters should have been used across all the printers in order to compare the actual quality of the hardware and control software - the printer. using different parameters would wreck the test. perhaps a default set of parameters and then tweek them to get the best results. post both results. that would give a better sense of the quality of the actual machine.

did the replicator 1 pass the test?

Arrrrrhhhh, I have knocked over the little par of the arc 2x now.  this time I was about 10mm hogh on it.  50% infill, no support material, having the z lift .2mm.  I have lots of jitter and I think thats what is knocking it loose. The jitter happens when it fills the hollow part of the box walls. 

Is it meant to be printed with or without support material?

That's up to you. We used the default settings of each machine when printing, so some used support and some didn't. 

WHAAA? The default settings of the machine would be the firmware, and the last time I checked, firmware doesnt load stl's, slice it and then create gcode. Just creates variables like max printing area etc.

You have to actually slice it and use a controller like pronterface to read the sliced file and print.

So..... you changed your slicer settings for some machines to print with support and some not? Sounds like an agenda to me. Your guys' explanations of how this test was conducted, never added up.

Here's just one of the things Ive created with a Series 1 https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B6byJGcnzyGBLVVYUmJ2akIyZ3M&usp=sharinghttps://drive.google.com/folde...

how do you use default settings of the machine when you slice the GCO off the hardware before hand? Do you understand how this even works?

Link to Cliff's Thingiverse page, since he made this object:  http://www.thingiverse.com/cbifflehttp://www.thingiverse.com/cbi...

It's not an impossible print, but it's really hard.   Even the one in that photo is missing the thin section.    Getting the arch and overhang right is a good test, but getting the holes / wall thicknesses right was the harder test. 

I tried printing hollow it was coming out really good until about 10 mm where because I was printing hollow the arch curled up and grabbed the print head.   That overhand under the arch is nasty too.  Cool print and definitely a good torture test.

You may have better results with a very low infill rather than hollow, but the arch is extremely tricky. Good luck :)

Print solid hollow or with some infill?