I really liked the Nixie clock design of @bmemike (see remix section) but needed a six-tube holder clock face and wanted to modify the style a little.
The IN-12 clock design by @grajohnt used the right size and configuration of tube sockets I wanted for my VFD clock (IV22 and IN12 tubes are very similar in footprint) so I decided to use this as my basis.
My thanks and credit to both these makers. I took the 6-tube face plate from @grajohnt and modified it in Tinkercad to give it round corners, then used that as the basis to create the clock body and rear plate in the style of @bmemike's design. I took @bmemikes clock legs and made them a bit longer, and cropped the sockets from his clock body and converted them into stand alone items.
Very happy with the result - the pink PLA+ clock body was my first ever "very long" print (15 hours) but it came off very well. The pink colour and retro legs give the clock a nice retro feel.
Light Red (more like pink)
Note: The face plate and legs were printed in Geetech Wood PLA using the same resolution as the clock body, then varnished afterwards to give a more realistic wood feel.
Extruder temp for the PLA+ was 225 deg C, 195 deg C for the Wood PLA.
Sliced in cura with 2 mm wall and top/bottom thickness, and 90 mm/s speed since there is no fine detail.
The leg holders will need slower printing (40 mm/s) and smaller top and bottom layers (I used 0.4 mm).
No supports necessary for any of the parts.
Body/Rear and Face plates
The body, rear plate and leg holders were simply printed using PLA+ at 0.15 mm resolution, and left unmodified.
The face plate and legs were printed in Wood PLA then painted with oak coloured varnish to give a more realistic wood effect.
The front plate slides (tightly!) into the clock body, and the rear plate can be screwed or glued on (you'll need sharp 2 mm screws).
The leg holders were printed separately rather than integrated onto the clock body to avoid the need for supports. They were designed by @bmemike to give a secure fitting for the legs - by printing them separately I've also given myself a bigger area to glue onto the body. The downside is they have to be manually located onto the clock body. I actually superglued the legs into the holders first, giving a larger flat surface to be superglued onto the clock body.
VFD tubes and PCB
For this project I have used IV-22 VFD tubes, but IN-12 Nixie tubes could be used equally well. My PCB was purchased from Monjibox Nixie (you can hunt him down on ebay) who actually modified his IV-11 PCB for me so I could use the IV-22s. The tubes are wired to the PCB and slotted into place through the sockets. An elastic band helps hold them together. The PCB can be secured by fixing to the rear plate or internal bottom of the clock body.
You may need to tinker the power and switch sockets on the rear plate to suit your particular requirements.