This is a Remix of C4's print-in-place Wire Housing for use with the Open Source Promega 3D Printer platform. Use of this, or any mods, are at your own risk.
This version has been redesigned to use larger, easier to print hinge pins and to use heatset inserts for securing it closed (M3 brass inserts, ~6.4mm length). The hinge also mates to create support when closed, keeping the back square and true for homing/resuming prints.
To assemble, you will need:
2- 16mm M3 screws
2- M3 Brass Heat Inserts for 3D Printing (I used INITEQ brand, long)
3D Printer, Exacto, Soldering Iron
This version has been confirmed to work w/ both the Gearbox and Stock configurations of the Promega. The model can be printed all in one piece - you may need to trim a bit of excess from one of the corners - I added a small lip (.3mm tall) to one of the corners to help w/ layer adhesion around a thin perimeter. Also, be careful not to melt, twist or press on the pegs too hard when inserting the the brass heatsets.
When changing from the stock wire housing, you will need to remove the end connector link from your drag chain, you can do this by hand or more easily with a small flathead screw driver (pictured above removed). The chain then pops onto the back of the wire housing - be sure you have your wires correctly behind the hinge for your set up. Then just shut it, screw it tight and you're done!
Note: You should be able to use the existing wire housing mount screws already on your machine. They feed through the motor to secure the Original to the back.
IMPORTANT You won't lose any Y space, but will lose between 6-8mm in the X due to the hinge offset. Make sure you check back and adjust your machines max dimensions!
The 'shove it in there and close it' design was a fantastic idea from C4 - I hope this version might be useful to someone. Cheers!
UPDATE 1/31/2019 -Original file needed uniform XYZ scaling to 10%, new FINAL version of the file updated to fix scaling issue.
.3 first layer, .2 layer height
M3D ABS-R ABS-R is a PETG Blend
100% Infill might be a bit tricky, but I prefer it for most Printer parts. I printed at 225-230c for the nozzle and 85c for the Bed temp and got good result using the K'tana.