PTFE FIlament and Cable Guide for CTC / FlashForge / Duplicator / Replicator

by thruit00 May 23, 2014
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FYI, I had already made several of these, so i could throw them is the spares bin or experiment, it turns out all that is required is a second set of screw holes 3 mm back from the originals (with relief in the upper fillet for the screw head to seat flat). this would make the part more universal. So a fully functional remix would involve only these minor changes.
I have done this in tinkercad, but lacking the original cad files, the fine details of your work are lost. tinkercad's import of STL files works, but many triangles are lost and the model becomes rougher. i would much prefer to use a small remix made by you, as i feel mine fails to capture your work well. Attribution or no, i believe a remix should be an improvement on the original, while mine is functional, it is by no means better.

the 3mm was added by Carl Raffle on the Alu-Block to eliminate the need for 3mm spacers between the block and the extruder when using more mechanically complex extruders Like the 3-in-1, Felxion etc. and for Makerbot 2x compatability.

I know remix requests are a dime a dozen and time is precious, but please consider this one in the spirit it was intended. it would give many users other than myself the benefit of your design.

I will post a make, with photos, but i dont think it deserves to be a remix.

I love this, and i have made several, but they have extruder alignment problems for my extruder blocks (3in1 aluminum blocks) on an alu-raffle carriage. installed in a powerspec 3d Pro (pre 2016) would you be willing to do or are you aware of a remix that would fit?

Unfortunately I don't have those extruder blocks so I can't create a version for it. I'm as well not familiar with mods for the raffle extruders. Know that all the parts from raffle rock, but they ended up being too expensive and I had to find workarounds for the different problems they solve.
Sorry for the bad news!

Anyone have links to a M6 thread cutter? I'm in the US. thank you

Super Danke. Mfg Andy

Hi there, I've made one but the holes come out oval instead of circular. As shown in made images - purple one with top view.

Any ideas what the issue is? New to 3D printing here.
Pretty sure the problem is the Y-axis but not sure what? Track too tight or loose??

See my notes at your 'made'

Would you be so kind as to link me to the M6 Push-In connectors please? I'm having a hard time locating these in any of my local hardware stores. Thanks In Advance!

If you would name the country you live in I might provide a direct link for you.
Because not naming the country on this question and expecting me to know the answer, I suppose you live in the US, right?
I actually live in Germany but try to answer your question (beeing currently in San Francisco).
In the US the metric system is not very common and that's why push in connectors (like typically used for pneumatic systems) are not widely available with metric threads in local hardware stores. If you search for 'pneumatic 4mm M6' on ebay.com you will get a lot results. Very often the official name 'push-in' for this connector type is not included in the title.
Good luck finding the right offer!

Thank You! And you're absolutely correct. I am in the US. Sorry I didn't mention that when asking the question! Thanks again for your help, I'll give it a search and see what I can find!

Thanks this solved a major problem I was having with my left extruder. It used to put down the first few layers and then stop pulling filament through. This new piece fits perfectly and is much more stable. Thanks for all the CTC upgrades you make, they are helping me tremendously.

How do you do bold font in your description? I've tried googling a bit but can't seem to figure out Thingiverse's syntax

Sourround the text you want to print bold with double stars.
How did I know?
Go to edit view and on the lower right side you can see a link to the markdown basic help.
In addition here it is: http://daringfireball.net/projects/markdown/basics

Thanks lol

Oh and nice design!

What exactly are the advantages of using this over the stock system? Less friction?

First of all it depends what printer you have. On my CTC printers the holes in the top plate did not align with the nozzle inlets. Which causes a lot of trouble with filament loading and makes printing with ninja flex almost impossible.

2nd: The original top plate does not protect the cables from beeing hardly bent directly above the top plate. Which cause cable breaks, which somtimes kill your mightyboard because on shorts.

3rd: Both of my CTC printes did not come with filament bowden guides or bowden mounts at the back of the printers. While having to buy them anyways I dicided to improve from the common 4x2mm plastic guides to 3x2mm PTFE guides. Here you can achieve a smaller bending radius and you don't require a that high top cover when doing ABS prints. PTFE guides tend to jump out all the time if you use normal conections. The push-in connectors make sure the PTFE guides stay in place while printing and can be easily removed if needed.

Excellent work! Just printed and i'm loving it. I have removed my left stepper and made a spacer to fill the void and this works perfectly. I would like to request a version of this to accommodate the laser cutter seen here http://jtechphotonics.com/?product=new-2-8w-laser-and-2-5amp-safety-compliant-driver-kit-with-us-style-power-adapter. It would be perfect if the laser cutter was oriented to shine through the hole in the extruder bar made available from the removal of left stepper and components.

great, thanks for sharing

Thanks my friend! :-)