Ich habe diese ganze Anleitung auch schon auf Deutsch übersetzt. Hier zu finden:
Leider hatte ich bis jetzt nicht so viel Zeit, sie perfekt zu übersetzten, aber der Inhalt sollte passen, und es sollte auch alles verständlich sein. Wenn irgendetwas gar nicht verständlich ist, bitte anschreiben.
With this "Thing", I want to sum up all basic upgrades, mods, some suggestions and more for the Anycubic I3 Mega.
I also have included a little test print you can try.
I have the Anycubic M (Anycubic I3 Mega) from 2018 with replaceable drivers:
Anycubic M [Amazon EU/DE]
Anycubic i3 Mega [Amazon US]
But there is also a newer Anycubic S Pro (Mega S) from 2019:
Anycubic S Pro [Amazon EU/DE]
Anycubic Mega S [Amazon US]
(if it isn´t available right now, give AliExpress or eBay a try)
You can also Upgrade your I3 Mega to the new Mega S:
Anycubic Upgrade [Amazon EU/DE]
Anycubic Extruder [Amazon US]
But with the new extruder, you need a new firmware and/or change and calibrate your E Steps.
You have to send the command "M92 E384" and "M500".
You should check out his post: Firmware[Thingiverse]
The most upgrades should also work for the new, but if something doesn't, pls let me know.
This Guide includes:
- settings for Cura
- some basics, mods and upgrades for the bed
- some suggestions for the hotend (cover, silent fan, better cooling)
- new spool holder and better management of the filament
- some design advancements
- vibration dampers
- making the printer completely silent (fans, new motor drives)
- some useful tips for a firmware upgrade
On the left side is a table of contents
If you use Cura, everything about it (Settings, Profiles) is in my Cura PDF.
I really like Cura. It even gets updates! I'm currently using the 4.0 Beta.
I have included a PDF File, with a complete Guide, to import all settings and set it up.
(with fancy pictures) Just download it.
So first, everything you really need, or which is easy to do.
The Ultrabase is the best bed, I ever have used. But it must be clean!
Before every print, I would suggest, that you clean it. Just take some isopropanol and give it a wipe with a towel. I use this (maybe your girlfriend has some to clean her nails, it's the same):
Isopropyl [Amazon EU/DE]
Isopropyl [Amazon US]
Please don´t use Aceton. This will destroy your bed.
Then, you really must level the bed perfectly. Do it as long, as it is perfect (at least for you). I really had problems with my front right corner, because when I loosen it, the rear left goes down and vice versa. Also, my bed is also not perfectly flat, but it works.
One more thing for the bed, a little bed handle so you don't burn your fingers:
Bedhandle[Thingiverse] Bedhandle[Thingiverse] Bedhandle[Thingiverse]
(just choose the one you like)
I do not have tested this.
But if you want, you can go for it.
The bed has no isolation. You can buy this, then the bed has one. Yep.
Over time, you maybe save a little bit of money, and your heating at the start is some seconds faster.
3d Print Bed isolation [Alieexpress]
Take the 220mm x 220mm.
Bed isolation [Amazon EU/DE]
Bed isolation [Amazon US]
I still use the original hotend, therefore I will only show upgrades for this one.
So first, I made a new Cover with bigger (Honeycomb Style) holes, for a better airflow:
For this cover, I would recommend that you change the right fan for a silent one like this:
Noctua40x10mm [Amazon EU/DE]
Noctua40x10mm [Amazon US]
The left turbo fan is quite good, and I would keep it. It cools the part enough.
Part Cooling Fan Duct
There are several designs for fan ducts. I would say they really help, and I also use one.
I use this one:
Part Cooling Fan Duct[Thingiverse]
I do not have tested other ones, but just search for Anycubic I3 Mega Fan Duct.
Covers and cable management
This is just a little cover, doesn't do much, just protect the cable:
When you print high objects, the cable may get squeezed at the top.
I use this little cable guide:
For this, you must cut the old cable ties and put new ones on. Some cable ties:
Cable ties [Amazon EU/DE]
Cable ties [Amazon US]
You could also use this little cover:
Or you print a cable chain like this:
On these pictures you can see how i installed the new fan.
Buy whatever Filament you like. The most are even form the same manufacturer, but with another brand.
I use PLA from Amazon Basic and Eryone:
Amazon Basic PLA [Amazon EU/DE]
Amazon Basic PLA [Amazon US]
I tested this filament and can't complain.
Also, I provide later in this post all my Cura settings, which for sure include “my best” settings and temperatures for this PLA (but should work great for most PLA).
Filament Spool Holder
You don´t need this for the new Anycubic S Pro (Mega S)
Basically, the original filament spool holder is crap.
I remixed one from philwild. Mine fits perfectly together with the thing I will talk about next.
This is my filament spool holder:
Filament Spool Holder[Thingiverse]
Filament Sensor Holder
You don´t need this for the new Anycubic S Pro (Mega S)
I really had some Problems with the original magnetic ball thing. It always fell off, then I tried some other holder which leaded to filament breaking. So I designed my own.
With this holder, the Motor is mounted at an angle, so the filament doesn't bend as much. Furthermore, the angle to the Spool holder is much better.
This is my Sensor Holder:
This is just a nice tool rig. You can put all your tools in. Nothing more to add.
And a holder for your caliper:
If you don´t have a caliper, you should have one. go for this:
caliper [Amazon EU/DE]
caliper [Amazon US]
This will really let your printer be the best out of all. Ok, no. It's just for aesthetics.
So I want to list here 2 different Face Plates.
On my printer, I use this one:
The white under this plate is just, paper or any other material. Can be any color.
The other one:
The printer can sometimes vibrate very much.
The simple way: Just put some foam (when you order something, you will get some for sure) under the feet. It will help some, but not for long. I still use it.
Nevertheless, you can print this:
These ones are not as high. (with my guide, you don't need to mount the power supply fan outside, so the printer doesn't need so much space beneath it.)
For this vibration dampers you need 4x Squash Ball:
Squash Ball [Amazon EU/DE]
Squash Ball [Amazon US]
If anyone finds some cheaper on amazon, which don't have over 10€ shipping fees, pls let me know.
I don´t have any lightning installed on my printer.
But this is the next thing I want to do.
Ok, so there are basically 2 variations.
Lightning on the hotend, or lightning on the housing.
For the Hotend:
A ring lightning which directly lights the printed part:
Ring LED Holder[Thingiverse]
A compatible led would be:
RingLED [Amazon EU/DE]
Or you just glue some led´s into the cover. You need some 12V LED.
LED [Amazon EU/DE]
You can also buy these:
LED [Amazon EU/DE]
To install it, just connect it to the right fan cables.
For the Housing:
A led stripe around the printer.
To mount it print this:
And led stripes:
You could go for a smartphone or any assistant (Alexa, google home) controlled one like this: LED Stripe [Amazon EU/DE] , but it is 5m long and you don´t need that much.
A cheap 1m long one: LED Stripe [Amazon EU/DE] (you could connect it with the power supply directly). Or one with an IR Remote: LED Stripe [Amazon EU/DE]
Ok, so you have done all above, but want your printer to be even better?
What about that loud sound’s you printer does? Do you have some Z wobbling?
OK, then make the Anycubic silent.
At this step, you have to open the bottom plate of the printer. Please turn the power off and unplug the cable!
Power Supply Cover and Fan
One of the loudest fans on this printer is the PSU fan.
So, I again got inspired from some other designs (listed on the thing site of my PSU cover, they did a great job!), and design my own PSU cover.
On the one side, the power supply gets much more air, on the other side, it is much quieter with it.
This is my design:
For this, you also need a new fan.
This depends if you have Version 1, 2 or 3. More details are in the description of my thing. For Version 1:
Noctua 92x14mm [Amazon EU/DE]
Noctua 92x14mm [Amazon US]
Or for Version 2:
Noctua 60x25mm [Amazon EU/DE]
Noctua 60x25mm [Amazon US]
Use the included low noise adapter to make it even less loud.
If you don't want to cut any wires, you can use this adapter:
3to2pin Adapter [Amazon EU/DE]
3to2pin Adapter [Amazon US]
Motor Driver Fan duct and Fan
Ok, next on the list is the fan next to the power supply. For this, I would recommend printing this fan duct:
Again, you also need a new, not as noisy fan. You need a 40mm x 10mm fan:
Noctua 40x10mm [Amazon EU/DE]
Noctua 40x10mm [Amazon US]
For the fans, use the included orange plastic things to tighten them to the cover or fanduct. They reduce the vibrations a lot.
When all your fans are quiet, there is still one sound. It's a very high-pitched annoying sound.
But first check, if you even can swap your driver. On some, they are soldered on. On others not. It depends when and where you bought the printer. For this, you have to open your printer.
Swappable drivers would look like these: (the 5 black pieces with the heatsink on it). There is this black mount below.
The 32bit Trigorilla board has soldered drivers. When it looks like the picture below, you can´t easily swap your drivers. Sorry.
If you can swap you drivers, go on.
So, you will need 5x TMC 2208: (for: X, Y, Z, E0 (Extruder), E1 (second Z)
There are some different versions on the market.
If you can find some, which are called V2.0 you just can swap then out.
Also, when you get them, check again if they are really V2.0
If you don´t find any, or got delivered others, you have to flash a new firmware.
Be sure, to then take the right hex file (Marlin-AI3M-vx.x.x-TMC2208.hex).
You can find more to this under the section Firmware.
You could take these (but then you have to flash the new firmware (which you should do anyways)
TMC2208 v1.0 (5Pieces) [Amazon EU/DE]
TMC2208 v1.0 (5Pieces) [Amazon US]
Or you take 5 of the new version:
TMC2208 v2.0 (5Pieces) [Amazon EU/DE]
Now to the installation:
Look at the marks on the board and on the driver, don´t put it in in the false direction.
When you install it, you must check the voltage.
Now to the voltage:
I hope every 3D Print Nerd (you are definitely one, if you came this far. Or you now will become one) has a multimeter. If you don't have one, go for this one:
multimeter [Amazon EU/DE]
multimeter [Amazon US]
Ok, so what is the right voltage? Vref?
It´s not the same for everyone.
But at least, stay between 0,8 and 1,4 V.
I have: X = 1,15V; Y = 1,15V; Z (Z1) = 1,15V; E0 (Extruder) = 1,25 V ; E1 (second Z) = 1,15V
Oh, and where should I measure the Voltage?
On the upper right hole (or on the screw, but you must turn this to change the voltage) on the driver and on the Ground GND.
Now just put the fan duct back on.
Now just test all axis. They should all work. If not, open the printer again, and check if any driver is very hot (nearly burn your fingers). If yes, this driver is maybe broken.
If no one is too hot, check the voltage again. Than check the cables if every is plugged in correctly.
If it still don´t work just comment.
Than test it again.
Also test printing a part.
When you get shifting layers or under extrusion, you have to increase the voltage a bit (in 0,05V or 0,1V steps)
Ok, maybe you have noticed it, maybe not. But the clutches for the Z-Axis are very stiff. Ehm, they just can't move.
I bought these:
coupling [Amazon EU/DE]
coupling [Amazon US]
These ones are much more flexible and will eliminate any Z-Wobbling.
But the installation is kinda pain.
You must unscrew the motors from the top, and then put the clutch out.
When you have the opportunity, you should take the screw drive out, and clean it (You will never do it again).
After cleaning, put a lot of oil on it again. If you don't have any fin oil, take this:
oil [Amazon EU/DE]
Calibration of the Extruder
Personally, I don´t have one.
But there is a slight chance, that the motherboard could get to hot.
Furthermore, it could than be destroyed.
You can print this Mosfet Holder:
And then buy two 2 pieces of this mosfet:
mosfet [Amazon EU/DE]
Next Toppic: the firmware.
- No more annoying sound at the start.
- PID Control
- 12V at fan
- Better print quality
- Thermal runaway protection
- mesh bed leveling
This guy did a really good job. He also describes everything good.
Please also read his explanation carefully.
But I will also do some simple explanation.
If you use still your stock driver take this version:
When you have the TMC2208 V2.0 take this version:
With any other (like TMC2208 V1.2) take this version:
To do the update, you now have to connect the printer to your pc.
Now, just open Cura, and go to Setting -> Printer -> Manage Printer -> and update firmware
Now select the right .hex and update it.
First, you will need to download Pronterface:
Just start it up and connect it with your printer via usb cable.
If the field under extrusion is red and you can´t write the extrusion length in it like it is on the picture below:
Right click on pronterface.exe -> properties -> compatibility tab -> high dpi settings -> tick the box under override high dpi scaling behavior and choose application.
(its german but you should get it anyway)
Now open pronterface again. It now should look like this.
Jetzt am Drucker den Fitting am Extruder, in den der Schlauch steckt entfernen.
Now on the printer, remove the plug or fitting on the extruder in which the filament tube is inserted.
Than cut the filament at the top of the extruder so you can measure the length later.
Now in Pronterface:
Write in the space right: ” M503 “and send it.
Should look like this:
Now search the “ M92 X80.00 …. “ line and note the values : E xx.xx
For example, mine: E92.60
At the left fill in at length:100mm at the speed 100mm/min
Than extrude 100mm filament
Now measure the length:
I measured: 96.56
100 / measured noted xx.xx
100/96.5692.60 = 95.90
Than copy the “ M92 X80.00 …. “ line and change the E to your calculated E.
My Line would look like this:
“ M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E95.90 “
Copy your own line than into the field and send it
Than type M500 and also send it.
Now you should be finished.
Sometimes, it just happens that you break something.
Furthermore, you maybe don´t even know the name of all things.
Or you know the name, or want to be sure you buy the right think.
So just to be sure, and you don´t have to ask a hundred of people and wait hours for good answer, here are typical spare parts you could need.
Ok, so first, you maybe broke any plug on the cables.
To be sure, they need to be 2,54mm.
Original Trigorilla Board (8 bit, with changeable drivers):
Original Bed (Ultrabase 220x220mm)
New Nozzles with other sizes (print faster with a 0,5mm, or prettier with a smaller than 0,4mm):
To clean the nozzles:
Cables (for lighting or fan):
Adapter cables (for the fan PSU fan):
If your screen don´t show your temperature, your thermistor is probably broken.
You need this:
https://amzn.to/2Bz53AZ (with no plugs)
a lot of redesign
- a quick overview
- spare parts
- a German pdf
- a new german guide
- extruder calibration onto the site
Just wanted to say thank you to this amazing community.
To everyone, who also built anything to make this printer better.
To everyone, who is helping others.
And especially to these people, which helped me at the beginning.
(*) This all was a lot of work, so I decided to make all my Amazon links, which I would have included anyway, to affiliate links.
There are not any costs for you. But when you buy with my link, I earn a bit.