After seeing a very popular room temperature thermometer/nightlight that's widely availabe in the UK, I designed this lamp in Fusion 360 which, in my opinion, looks way better.
The lamp is controlled by an Arduino Nano v3. A 12-LED NeoPixel ring provides lighting and a TM1637 4-digit 7-segment display reads out the ambient temperature, while an MCP9808 temperature sensor is used to measure the ambient temperature (you could use a different sensor, such as the Dallas DS18B20). The lamp is internally fused for safety. A momentary push button has been added to provide additional functionality such as different modes (eg moodlight), brightness levels and on/off. I have included a basic sketch that I cobbled together out of some example code (demonstrated in the video), but I'm afraid I just don't have the time right now to write a fully featured sketch...
WARNING: This lamp is a novelty item. No claims are made about the accuracy and/or safety of this device. Make and/or use at your own risk.
About the Temperature Sensor...
A temperature sensor in a through-hole package such as the Dallas DS18B20 might give more accurate readings, because you can stick the sensor out of the base into the thruster (that's what I made the hole for). I found that the MCP9808 reads about 4 degrees high at 21 degrees due to internal case heating, so this needs to be compensated for in software.
Required Hardware (Links are examples- use your preferred supplier)
1 x Arduino Nano v3
1 x Buck Converter
1 x 12-bit WS2812 LED Ring
1 x TM1637 4 Digit 7 Segment Display
1 x MCP9808 Temperature Sensor
1 x SPST NO Momentary Button
1 x DC Power Socket
1 x 5x20mm Inline Fuse Holder
1 x 5x20mm 500mA Glass Fuse
1 x 470Ω resistor
Kapton tape (or other insulating tape)
- All 3D printed parts require supports. Please see the pictures for how I printed the different parts.
- I printed the nose cone in transparent PLA with 3 wall thicknesses (0.4mm nozzle), and 0% infill
- I superglued the fins to the body, and the thruster to the base. I then used a couple of dabs of hot-melt glue to fix the nose cone and base to the body- this way I can open it up again if I need to.
- Fitting the electronics is a squeeze... All header pins need to be removed from the boards and wires soldered in place.
- Cover all boards with insulating material such as kapton tape to prevent shorts.