I wanted a "big" 20 sided die, so I laser cut some (20) sides and printed 3D corner fittings (12).
This is "adjustable" - bigger faces makes a bigger die. Smaller makes a smaller die.
I originally had "Edge Ties" to glue to the internal edges, but it's way faster to just chop a little bit of a board or dowel rod than to print 30 edges.
I did use the printed ties on the last face since they were easier to glue to the opening, then glue the face in later.
As an option, the last face can be mounted with magnet fittings, in which case you have a door and can use the die as a box!
Additional stuff needed:
- Wood for faces (or another material)
- Dowels for edges (optional)
- 6 10mm magnets (for removable face)
- Construction Glue
- Masking/Painter's tape
Full disclosure: Gearbest gave me the CR-10 that I printed this with, so I feel sort of obligated to put it through it's paces.
Something you feel is strong enough.
I only printed the corners, some edges, and the corner jig to help in assembly. You can size the corners &/or edges up or down if your die is a different size.
Note that a 20 sided die has 20 faces, which I cut from wood, 12 corners, and 30 edges. Given the # of edges, I gave up after printing a few corner ties and just chopped up a dowel rod.
If you want to use the opening face, mine is attached magnetically. You'll need 3 of each of the magnet pieces (6 total, 3 go on the face, 3 go inside the edges surrounding it).
Step 1: Sizing and Planning
As is we built a die almost a foot across. You'll probably want to make sure you can efficiently cut the faces from whatever material you choose, which is one factor that impacted our size (we wanted all the faces to fit on an 18x24 laser cut sheet).
If you choose something much larger or smaller you may want to scale up the corner pieces. (need 12 corners).
The "jig" wasn't as helpful as I wanted. To support the whole thing it'd need to be much bigger.
You need 30 edges. Consider a dowel or small wood block to chop short sections for the edges - that'll save days of print time!.
When choosing a material for the faces, pick something you can glue. Our wood was found and nice, but really slippery and the glue didn't adhere very well.
Step 2: Printing/Cutting
You'll need 20 faces (obviously), 12 corners and maybe 30 edge supports.
Cutting 20 faces:
The included pattern was intended for laser cutters and has 21 triangles on an 18x24 bed. (21 in case one gets messed up and because it fit).
One of the PDF's has tiny itty bitty dots in the middle of the faces in case you think that's helpful to center the numbers. We ended up not using that aid.
You can, of course, just use a saw or anything else that you can get to behave, just make sure you can arrange enough triangles on your material in the sizes you want.
You can scale up or down the corners if you want.
I'd recommend just chopping a dowel or other small wood block to glue to the edges.
Optional Magnetic Face:
If you want to use the magnetic face, you'll need to print 3 "door holders" and 3 "door mounts" for that face. The hole is appropriate for magnets about 10mm in diameter.
It's optional to print the jig to hold one point at the appropriate angles. Unfortunately, to get it large enough to support the weight of the individual faces, it has to be quite huge.
Step 3: Prepare the faces
Since we'll be gluing the faces to the corners, make sure that all parts can "stick" to their counterparts. Depending on your materials and adhesive, you may need to roughen (eg: sand) the inside corners and edges of the faces where the glue will be applied. I didn't do that well enough and my die are more fragile than necessary.
Read the remaining instructions so you understand the assembly. Practice fitting the parts before actually applying glue :)
Note that we have to leave one face off until the very end so that we can reach inside to glue all of the other parts.
Step 4: Assemble the "bottom" and "top"
Probably read all the instructions and look at all the photos first :)
The "bottom" and "top" are each 5 triangles. Set 5 face down on a flat surface and carefully align the edges. (See photos). There'll be a gap when flattened like that.
Tape each edge to hold it while you work. Make sure all the corners meet at the same point.
Pick up the set of edges, and tape the remaining two sides together.
Place in the jig (if used), and glue a corner into the "point" of the bottom.
I applied glue to the corner pieces, and then pressed them into the corner. I used the jig &/or hands on the other side to help ensure that it was seating correctly and still maintaining the right angle outside.
Tape the outside edges to help secure everything.
When it's dry enough, remove the inside edge tape and glue the edge pieces (making sure to allow room for the corner pieces at the corners.)
Repeat for the other side.
Step 5: Arrange the "center"
The center is the remaining 10 pieces.
Lay them out face down in a single row of alternating triangles, making sure the points are straight, and tape the edges like you did the tops and bottoms. See pictures.
Gently move the section to its edge and tape the remaining edges together. See photos. It'll be pretty floppy, so be careful.
With the bottom point on the jig, carefully set the center section over the bottom. Align and tape each edge on the outside. Move and adjust the tape if you need to.
EXCEPT FOR ONE FACE, glue in the remaining corners. When you can carefully do so, remove the tape from the inside edges and glue them as well.
LEAVE ONE FACE UNGLUED! You can glue the corner pieces(s) adjacent to it to the faces it joins, but DO NOT glue the face to the corners. You have to be able to remove it to finish the interior in the next step!
Step 6: Add the "top"
When the middle is secure enough, place the top over the center section. Note that you'll have to remove the unsecured center panel in order to glue the remaining corners and edges.
As before, align the 5 top edges and tape them so that the top and middle faces are aligned.
Remove the unsecured middle panel :) Make sure that it still fits where it belongs even after removing it and everything else is taped.
Glue the remaining corners. When safe to do so, remove the inside tape and glue the remaining edges.
You still have one loose face.
Step 7: It's fun to make noise!
Throw a few spare dowel edges into the dice so that when you roll it, then it can rattle :)
Step 8: Remaining Face, removable or not?
Option A: Fixed Face:
If the last face is not to be removable, "just" glue the corner and edge pieces into the insides of the adjacent faces. When that has set enough that it won't be disturbed by placing the last face, apply the glue to the inside corners and edges and apply the last face.
Even if you used dowels for the other 27 edges, it is nice to use the printed edges on this last face as it has the correct angles and is easier to attach to the edges in the proper positions.
Option B: Removeable Face:
Add magnets to each of the 3 Door Holder and 3 Door Mount pieces. 10mm in diameter. When connected, there will be thin plastic walls between the magnets so that when you pull them apart the magnets go with their respective parts.
It's probably a good idea to do these steps before the glue finishes setting in case you've made them too tight.
Glue the 3 Door Mount pieces to the inside edges of the 3 faces surrounding the hole. I tried to ensure they were centered so it didn't matter which way the last face is installed. Make sure they aren't so close that the door fittings won't fit.
Glue the 3 Door Holder pieces to the inside edge of the last face. Gently place it in it's final position before the glue sets.
Note that it can be quite challenging to remove the door!
Step 9: Fill (if desired) the Die Edges
We used wood putty on the one die to fill the edges. That doesn't really work for the removable face though, so I'd avoid filling the edges if you choose the removable door.
After the putty is dry, sand as desired and repeat. Any other leaking glue or whatever may also be dealt with at this time if need be.
Step 10: Paint the Base Color
I probably don't need to say how to paint. Make sure your paint adheres to your faces. If not you may need to sand the surfaces or prime them.
We used a base primer coat and then the final coat of paint.
The corner jig can be used to hold the die for painting.
Step 11: Add the Numbers
I've included a PDF of some numbers that can be used on a vinyl cutter. Otherwise use any technique that you want.
If you care, it seems that there is a "system" to placing numbers appropriately on most gaming die. Copy the pattern from one of those.
If you use the removeable panel, choose which number you want it to be, and try to remember that number!
The numbers are usually "centered" in the space of each face.
Step 12: Clear Coating
After applying the numbers, we sprayed on a clearcoat. We're hoping that helps the vinyl numbers stay in place and not peel up around the corners.
Step 13: You're Done, Have Fun!
Hopefully you can gently roll your new die on surfaces that aren't too terribly hard. That, of course, depends on the materials and glue you chose. Ours roll just fine, and the 3 dowels make a fun noise when rolling... but if you drop it off a table, it wants to chip and break a face. (So don't do that).
Thanks for playing!