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martin_au

Embiggened, braced, reversed, Prusa Mk3 Einsy enclosure.

by martin_au Feb 13, 2019
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Is the step files in the comments the latest? If not, could one be posted?

I think so. I don't think I've made any significant changes since then.

Would be nice to be able to fit a RPI below the controller card.

Thanks - that is (almost) exactly what I needed. And thanks to you publishing the .stp (btw, any major difference in the bracket part between the .stp and your last version here?), I can make it into exactly what I need.

Ok, maybe a little bit of explanation. I run my printer inside an enclosure, and I'm finally working again on the climate control (ok, a big word for a fan regulator) for the box, which should enable me to print ASA (or even ABS). The air inlet of my box is right next to the einsy box - but the default box has the majority of the air coming in from the heatbed side. At 110°C heatbed temperature inside a box that I'd like to keep at ~50°C overall (the printer parts are all made form PETG, right?), that's going to be toasty - and I would like to avoid the airflow from the inlet across the heatbed.
Along comes your box - shielding the heatbed from the cold air and putting the hot side of the board right towards the airflow :-). And reinforcing that side of the frame as a bonus. Now all I need to do is to fiddle around with the airflow. The vents on the heatbed side need to go, instead a few vents need to go into the top side - and maybe I'll even add a fan to the door.

I'm having issues with the square nuts not fitting, and the STP file you attached below isn't importing properly so I can't tweak it. Can you try re-exporting the STP?

Nevermind, I got it to work! Posting a remix now

I have printed this and am using a Raspberry Pi. I have noticed a few problems:

  1. the cutout access for the pi is very thick and difficult to remove and after it is removed there is no way to cover the hole.
    I would suggest making the area for the pi cutout about 1mm thick - it will be cosmetically the same and result in not structural problems.
    Also, make a snapin access panel to cover the hole.The cover panel will need to be flush with the case.

  2. Increase the standoffs for the Einsy by 2mm, this would allow more room for the Pi after the cover plate is installed

  3. I did not want to disassemble my Prusa MK3 frame to install the einsy_frame_clamp, so I put an M5 drop in nut and drilled out the holes on the adjacent part of the embiggened case. Perhaps you could make this an option in your design. I would suggest www.thingiverse.com/thing:3396475 for the drop in nut.

As an aside, I see you have wrapped the filament heater wire and thermister separately. This seems like a good idea. How has it been working?

3030 T-nut drop-in M5 M4 M3
by Wolf194

Thanks jimbo. The pi access should be the same as for the original einsy box, and should use the cover that Prusa have made available. I’ll take a look at the m5 nut. No problems yet with running the hotend and extruded cables in separate bundles.

you made the base unit back thick (it acts as a support) and this thickness makes the Pi access area also very thick and hard to cut and limits the space available between the Einsy and the back. The original cover will no longer work because the back is so thick.

Believe me, I have tried to make the Pi work but there is a problem.

Ok, cutouts should be easier to cut. Einsy has a smidge more clearance, and there's a Raspberry cover specifically included now.

Thanks for considering my ideas and the quick response!.

Just a few more suggestions:

the Pi cover plate needs a very subtle change. On the left corner tab areas on the case are rounded, the Pi cover tabs also need rounded contours', the other 2 tabs are square contours. It takes a very close look, but there is a difference.

the Pi cover needs to inset so it is flush with the box, there need to be an inset with an offset so the cover does not fall into the case - probably the inset with offset should be at the top and bottom.

the thickness of the area covering the Pi should be uniformly as thin as the tabs so the printing time is less.

this should be adapted to it works on the Prusa Bear upgrade - this is very popular upgrade that uses 20-30 extrusions for the frame. The modifications needed would be for attaching to the extrusions rather and the Prusa frame,

Gotcha. I’ll take a look.

Reversing the board access is brilliant!

Any chance you are thinking of incorporating cable chains?

I wasn’t planning to. I’m not a fan of cable chains.

would you be willing to share a .stp or solidworks file of the buffed case? Thanks in advance.

will this mod allow access for a Pi zero like the original Prusa?

Should do. The portion behind the Einsy should be almost identical.

Is it possible to upload a step file for the parts? I would like to modify them slightly to fit my needs but I cannot convert the files in fusion 360 without there being too many facets and losing critical detail in your design.

I'll do it in a bit. Just need some time to convert everything.

No rush, thank you very much!

Here's the .stp file. I've only included the larger, lift off door as that seems to be the nicest option I've designed so far.

What length screws did you design this for? I'm assuming 12mm as my 10mm come up short everywhere.

Yep. Generally 12mm.

Ok thanks, guess I'll have to order some, as prusa doesn't use those so don't have spares laying around :)
BTW: Awesome print, makes the printer look so much nicer, thanks!

Would you be able to add the larger bed clip the 8mm one from the prusa download

If that's for the fabric sleeve, then the existing clip is already set up for it. I didn't bother designing for the older spiral wrap as they should be fairly uncommon now.

It is for the older spiral wrap

Diameter is already ~7.5mm, so it will probably fit. It'd be worth switching to the braided cover though, as it's a lot friendlier to the thermistor cable.

I meant it is the textile wrap but the older kind they had a thicker one for a while. The 8mm clip is larger than the regular kind

In that case it's probably the same as mine. I think the design should be fine.

Alright I’ll let you know

I've a question. I use a raspberry Pi 3 so I need the usb connector. It looks like I'd need a right angle usb cable so it doesn't interfere with the extruder harness... is that true?

No idea. The USB port is actually in almost the same spot as before, just turned around.

Great! Thanks for the information and the design. When I get the s upgrade, I’ll use your new enclosure!

Great idea, Prusa should have made it this way in the beginning! Could you please make a version that will fit the bear upgrade? It is just a matter of mounting to a different frame. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808408

Prusa i3 Bear Upgrade v2.0

Thanks for making this - this seems to be the only case for the MK3 out there that does the two and only two things I wanted: brace the frame and be larger. The reverse door is a bonus!

Edit: I just made it and here are more comments:

  • I can attest it really strengthens the frame. This is such an improvement that I have no interest in getting a bear frame now. You can't even wiggle the top of the frame anymore.
  • Having the board flipped makes it easy to access all the cable connections, and the extra space is great. However, this overall is a toss up because I am not sure if it is worth it until they move the position for the X cable connection. The X cable length now is a bit shorter since it has to reach all the way across the board to connect to power cables to the + and - connectors there, and it seems like that might a small concern of cable strain.
  • I printed the larger door and it completely hides all the cables. We might need another optional screw to tighten it on the bottom though as there is a gap there between it and the base at the back of the printer.
  • The base is a large part and took about 11 hours to print. If there is a way to break it into two parts that would help: maybe a support frame and a cover for example.
  • The vertical wall in the base part that holds the end of the nylon rod and separates the two compartments is a bit thin. I would just remove all of that and beef up the part that supports the hole the nylon rod hole.
  • The biggest problem I had was the square nuts - the holes need to be a lot looser and deeper, and a bit closer sot he threads have a better chance of making a good connection. The door nut hole is done the best so if you can carry that over the the others that would work. Even better, just do away with all of the square nuts and carry the screws all the way through to a hex nut instead on the extruder and power cable braces.

I'll take a look at the nut pockets and door when I get a chance. I also need to make the door removable so people don't need to raise the X-axis to get inside the case.

11 hours seems a long time. I saw a number of 9 hours or so on a 0.15mm profile, and IIRC it took me around 6 -7 on a 0.2mm profile.

Worked fine on my MK3. Square nut holes were a touch tight trying to get the nut to seat all the way into the slot, but eventually got them in there. Nice design.

Very good the idea of ​​rotating the plate out!
Query: would not it be better if the cable organizer was on the opposite side or add something similar on the other side?
I notice that it would help a lot to the cables of the engines, something similar to this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2785745

Original Prusa MK3 - Zaribo Edition - Raspberry Pi 3 and Raspberry Pi Zero Einsy Rambo Box

Yeah, I'm not going to change the cable port locations - especially for the extruder, as that's a can of worms I don't want to worry about - eg: whether or not a rear cable bundle for the extruder will run into the MMU. The cable organiser is mostly to deal with the mass of cables coming out the extruder bundle.

Could this be incorporated into the full Bear Upgrade?

Maybe. I don't have CAD of the full Bear.

I'd love to print this case! Unfortunately, Slic3r PE is crashing isntantly when I try to import the file of the case body. Cura can't import, too. I tried repairing in Netfabb but it doesn't work either.

Could you please check and reupload your files?

Hmmph. I exported it from Slic3r, but apparently that didn't catch everything. I've re-uploaded.

Worked. :-)

Thanks, Martin!

Almost fits MK2.5 - I used Slic3r PE to rotate/cut, and re-set the case to remove the brace as it would do nothing for a MK2. I tried OpenSCAD but the result was broken. Nut hole at the inside square nut for the bed holder seems too shallow. MK2 frame sides are apparently a bit wider than the MK3, so an adjustment would need to be made to the hinge pieces to move the door about 5mm. Also think about rearranging the door screw so that it screws in from the outside. All-in-all a good mod. Thanks.

So is it usable for the 2/2.5? I love it on my MK3, but it took a while to print so I'd rather not do it if I can't use it.

I did a remix - its linked above and I have it on my 2.5

I’ll check that square nut. Mine was a bit tight too, but I thought there was just gunk in the hole.

Martin, very nice design, you thought of almost everything . . . sadly there's no beer tap mate ;-) Printed last night with Prusa's Galaxy Black PLA, looks amazing, Thank you !!

Yes! Your upgrades are the best. Will be printing this and testing this week. This is the design that should have been included with the kit. I hated having to smash the wires against the board. Will print, photograph and post a make soon. Thanks! :-)