Loading
Hultis

Greek Meander Lamp

by Hultis Feb 18, 2019
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

I noticed that you have this listed as non commercial in your license and I found someone selling your idem on Etsy just thought I would let you know because I don't want your amazing work to be stolen for profit.
Link :https://www.etsy.com/listing/682446598/modern-light-bedroom-light-greek-meander

Thanks for the tip! He removed this listing before I could even see it but is still selling these two non-commercial things, even reusing their images. I won't let a single idiot stop me from sharing my work for others to enjoy though.

HTC Vive Joystick mod.
HTC Vive Pro Sound Improvement - Headphone Spring
by PanFX

The folding parts don't get printed on my Creality Ender 3, Sliced with Cura on 0.2MM + 100% infill with recommended settings. Am I missing something? The parts are all printed "separate".

Seems something was wrong in the saved stl files that I've edited before, "reload all models (F5)" seemed to have fixed the issues.

What light are you using? What would be recommended?

I use an IKEA LEDBERG, but it's really only usable in a fairly dark room. You could use something like a Cree XML T6 if you want a ton of light and also to get blinded anytime you look at the lamp :)

I cut part1 and part2 into three pieces each. Now I can print them in my Qidi's 230X150 mm bed at 100%.

Can you give me the cut parts ? thanks

So my first layers on the 2 main parts were really good (PLA+, printing on a mirror) so I have a great surface finish.

My issue was that towards the end of the print I started getting some warping with many of the spiral bits peeling up at the corners. The prints finished despite this and look like they'll still all join up with some negotiation.

Is it worth trying to print closer to the bed and end up with a slight elephant foot in order to try and prevent this warping? Or any other tip help get a final product closer to perfection?

I did squish my first layer a bit to ensure good bed adhesion. I personally don't think the slight elephant foot negatively impacts the result, but that depends on your personal taste. You could also try hitting it with a heat gun while it's on a flat surface to flatten the warping, but you risk unwanted horizontal movement.

Great design, but has some flaws:
The parts with 3 spirals are a pain in the ass to bend, they remain unbent. I think you should make more joinings from the spiral to the bending part (the rib), because the spirals float in the air.
Other than that - it's a great design.

Hot air gun is very convenient for folding

Needle-nosed pliers to the rescue. Using those the bending took a bit of patience but was easy enough.

I'm painfully aware of that, they were annoying for me to bend as well. However, I didn't like the look of any of the joinings I tried so in the end I chose the design over ease of assembly. But if you score the bends lightly and maybe help them a bit with pliers it's not that hard.

I can just make it fit on my Ender 3 at 90%. Will the suggested IKEA lamp still fit inside?

I'd also be interesting in knowing whether this can be scaled for Ender 3, whilst still being big enough to fit the Ikea lamp?

Yes, the IKEA lamp has plenty of room. And if you print the base at 100% height you won't get any problems fitting the cable in the optional guide path.

Excellent! Thanks for the quick answer and the tip.

300!

make it like a magic 8Ball so all the answers of the universe are projected. Yes/No. Your lookin good buddy. : )

Thank you for your reply. At first I thought it was a sterograph lamp. Any chance you could make a step file of the original design before you cut and layed it out. I'd like to use that to thicken the edges and perhaps try out a few other patterns. I printed it at 66%xy size and the 'v' where the glue goes is stronger than the surrounding material so it rather bends next to the 'v'.

Stereographic lamps are on the ever increasing pile of started but unfinished projects, maybe some day one of them will actually be done :) The bending thing happened to me as well when I printed a small test. I solved it with some light scoring and pliers though.

I have attached the best I could find. The sides already have lips for bend allowance and the bottom stabilizer must have been made later, but hopefully it's usable.

Please share with us how you designed this. I am interested to know how you determined the angles of the cutout angles in the sides that let the light though.

If you mean the pattern it's all 90 degrees. If you mean the corners, it's just 45/2. The bottom was cut off when I test assembled it in Fusion, so I didn't calculate that. If you want to angle something directly against a point I can recommend the track to constraint in Blender. I don't know of any convenient function in Fusion.

I put blue leds in mine after I printed it haveing them at different angles to hit all the sides , looks really nice with blue light :)

Thanks, when I was searching for the light, all I was finding was a long, skinny LED strip, not the spotlight.

Would you mind providing a few details on how you managed the lighting? I have no experience with the IKEA light you mentioned and was wondering what you meant by the "without the lens" comment. Thanks.

I am halfway through printing and it looks nice so far.

Sorry, I missed this comment. The lens causes multiple shadows. Just remove it with a screwdriver sort of like you would open a paint bucket. See pictures. Unless you really mauled it you should be able to push back the lens again if needed.

Yes please!
Some photos from the inside and/or assembly would be very cool :)

See this make, it has lots of photos and assembly tips!

Greek Meander Lamp

I really like this design! Is it possible to make a smaller version, about 75-80% smaller? I can't print this on my Prusa MK3, I don't think many people will have a bed big enough for this.

Thanks, and it absolutely is possible! I added a description in the details.

Brilliant. I initially scaled in the X,Y and Z planes and felt it might affect the bends. Never thought to scale just on X and Y! I'll get printing when the current one has finished!

I just scaled it on all 3 in Slic3r and since the joins that bend are only one layer they just stayed the same. I had to go down to 70% so it would fit on the KosselXL at our makerspace. I just got the bed leveled and the prints about as good as I can get them this past Thursday, so this will be a great test that uses pretty much the entire bed.
(The IKEA around the corner even has the lamps that were used so pretty pumped to print this on Sunday.)

Yeah, the bend will stay the same unless you scale a lot. The model does get a bit more wobbly and harder to glue up at smaller scale though. However, the original is sturdy so 70% won't be a problem.

Good luck, pray to a bed adhesion deity of your choice and report back and tell us how it worked out at 70%!