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metaform3d

AT-AT refactored

by metaform3d May 31, 2014
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I reprinted this on my new balco 3d printer and it came out much better than last time! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SlRKVmhWh4&t Thanks for the brilliant model! Hope you don't mind me sharing it on youtube. It's not monetized and I credited you in the description :)

Hi, nice model, i finished print and now im gluing it, I found no difference between legA_L and legA_R, is just me?

Yes, the part is symmetric so mirroring has no effect.

Hey mate, amazing model! Almost finished printing all the parts now. Some parts were quite annoying to print though, needing a lot of support material. I feel like you could have separated some parts to make it a lot easier to print, especially the head and neck. Anyways, it seamed to all work out in the end. What tolerance did you use for the chassis parts to connect to the underpart of the body, or the tolerance for the leg pieces. These tolerances worked really well on my printer, that's why I'm curious.

Glad you like it! Yes, it can be a challenging print. Tolerances were 200-400 micons.

I am still new to 3D printing and having some struggles getting parts of this model to print correctly.I got the body back, chassis front and rear and chassis plugs to print without issue. The guns that mount to the head have some issues on the little part that protrudes under the gun barrel, but I can retry them or just live with it. The head didn't turn out so well. It seemed to me that printing it standing up on the neck would be the best way. But there was so much support material around the neck to hold up the head it was impossible to remove it all cleanly. And support material also got into the vent ports on the lower back side of the head. I've not had a lot of luck with printing using supports so far with several models. I'm going to read up on it more. I've heard I can change the support type/grid to make them easier to remove. Using an original prusa i3 mk2. Is it best to print the head just as it comes in the STL? I assume this will require a lot of support material on the underside of the entire head, correct? But that still may be easier to remove then from around the neck.

Also is Body Front messed up? The model looked normal when I threw it into slicer. I didn't bother checking the layers, but noticed it wasn't printing everything. Resliced it and checked the layers again and with every layer it seems to print less and less to one corner. I tried using a repair program, but then coudn't get the output to even open in Slic3r.

Thanks, and great looking model.

The guns are a pain to print because they're so narrow. You could try printing both left and right at the same time. For me that sometimes slows down the print enough that the filament can cool before more is deposited.

The head is probably best printed standing up on the neck. Pretty sure that's how I did it. Removing support can be challenging but it's required sometimes.

I've double-checked the body_front parts and there did seem to be some duplicated polygons. I'll upload fixed ones and you can try again.

hey is this a 28mm model?

Oh, I get it! 28mm gaming miniatures. Actually, yes it is. At 28mm scale the walker would stand 18 meters tall, within the cannonical height range of 15 to 22 meters.

Not sure what you mean. The completed model stands about 300mm tall, 350mm long, 100mm wide.

yea, the official height is 22.5 on the website, all g tho, if its 300mm, and the 28mm size for a 22.5m one is 461mm, ill scale em all up by 1.5! its the right size if you went by the 15m hieght your right, but id like one (3) full size, anyway thank you for the model

Would It come out the same if I made all the pieces smaller by the same scale or would it be messed up?

I did incorporate gaps of a fixed size that would get smaller in a scaled-down print. However you should be able to make the joints fit by sanding anything that was too tight. It'll probably work -- give it a shot!

Ok thank you I'm printing the head right now and its going good but the guns just don't want to print correctly but ill try and figure it out.

I'm printing it as we speak!! Cant wait to get it painted :) Cracking job. ill post a pic once its done (Why is there a front_F and a front??)

Thanks, can't wait to see it. front_F and back_F are just rotated to put the flat side on the bottom.

Just another quick one, did you print the body with any infill? i did the front piece but tried to save filament by printing it as a shell but in two halves.

I used infill which does add up to a fair amount for objects this size. I'd be curious how printing as a shell works out.

Printed on my Afinia H479. The build volume is about a 12cm cube.

Very nice. Did you print out all the parts the way the files are or did you change the orientation in the software?

I did rotate them 90 degrees on some axes to be best for my printer. Except for some of the main body parts they are all oriented based on the model, but they all have obvious flat sides.