PLEASE NOTE: To make the tool, you need to buy the steel prongs which can be purchased from my website.
17/04/19GUESS WHAT!!!! I now have a website and selling the Steel Prongs V2. As well as, the tool already printed. Please check it out. All payments are through Pay Pal.
16/04/19 New PDF guide for information on the tool. Including pictures of each tool and the required files for it. As well as, detailed information of required printing parameters. Also, all model files are now saved in separate archive folders. So no need to sort through all the files when looking for the ones you need for your model.
05/04/19 We now have a tool holder for the E3D Volcano!!! So that brings the range to
• E3D V6,
• E3D V6 eBay clone version, and
• E3D Volcano.
01/04/19 Steel Prong V1 and Steel Prong V2. There has been a slight change to the way the Steel Prongs are now made. I have had both sides sanded which allowed it to have a better surface finish than the original steel prongs that l had made. As l result, the prongs are slightly thinner. This doesn’t affect the use or functionality of the tool, but you will need to choose the appropriate tool holder based on the version of prong you have. Steel prong V1 was about 2.9mm, Steel prong V2 is about 2.4mm.
24/02/19 Just a side note, the flexible filament that sits on the surfaces of the tool is not actually printed inside the print or at the same time. Its just pressed fit afterwards.
***THE ORIGINAL POST***
So l found when l was trying to change my nozzle on my Prusa MK3, holding the heater block was a little awkward. Also, using the methods describe by Prusa, l found it was damaging the heater block from the teeth of the tool "Maybe l was using the tool wrong". So part of my 4th year Engineering degree, l used my work experience time to develop a tool that would solve this problem. Meet, The Wrench.
The Wrench is designed to suit E3D heater blocks, 23mm in width and the cheap eBay knock offs, 20mm in width. To accommodate what heater block you are using, simply unscrew the back and change the side of where the metal prongs sit. You use The Wrench to hold the Heater Block in place while you unscrew the Nozzle, giving you plenty of space to work in.
The metal prongs are cut from 3mm Steel using a CNC machine. Each of the prongs have a channel machined out that allow for the head of the pan screw on the heater block, to fit. Therefor, the channel on the prongs must be facing each other. Later on, l will try and find a hack that would allow people who don't have access to a CNC machine, to utilise something to replace the prongs that l designed.
The outer casing of the tool is made out of PLA and Flexible material. The Flexible material makes up the grip component and the outer boarder face. While the outer boarder face has no real purpose, it was more for cosmetic looks. The grip component allows for a more natural feel when using the tool. While the PLA supports the housing of the prongs.
I have include a word document that includes the printing parameters for each of the components, l highly recommended you stick to this, especially the layer height settings. Each of the components, mainly the PLA parts, was designed with the intention of it been printed at the specified height. As regard for the infill percentage, the higher the better for PLA. Also, depending on the softness you required for the grips, the lower the infill, the softer it feels to touch. The two screws that l used are M4x16 countersunk. They will both self tap into one side of the PLA, so be mindful when screwing them in.
⦁ I found that one brand of Flexible filament l used, fit perfectly in the PLA housing, while another brand made things tougher getting them in. If you find that your Flexible filament falls into this category, then you may need to do a little sanding to get a nice fit. The Flexible filament l used was the Hobby King brand and it fit perfectly. The Blueprint 3D brand didn't fit as well and required a little more force.
⦁ As for the tolerances of the fit, it was designed to be Printed on a Prusa MK3. So there is a possibility that your 3D printer may not print with t he same tolerance as l got. Therefor, sanding back may be required. For the people who have a Prusa MK3, everything should snap together.
Required parts for one The Wrench:
⦁ 1x Part A - PLA filament
⦁ 1x Part B - PLA filament
⦁ 2x Part D - Flexible filament
⦁ 2x Part E - Flexible filament
⦁ 2x M4x16 Countersunk Screws
Finally, if you do edit or remix these files. Please share the link back to this page.