This is a remix of lulu109's 1:200 scale wind turbine. I say remix, but I ended up redesigning every part for print-ability, easy of assembly, and accuracy.
The blade has an actual wind turbine blade profile (SA833) and correct twist for a wind turbine (opposite that of a propeller). You'll need to print 1x of each stl, except for 3x of the blades. Most of the files are not oriented correctly for printing, and you'll want to use the "lay flat" feature on some of them. I printed the blades standing up, though nozzle drag near the tip made them kind of bumpy, so I had to sand them. There are some really small features, so you want to make sure your printer is tuned well. It's ok if the latches for the upper nacelle don't work/break; I ended up just gluing mine together. There are provisions for tiny screws in some places if you don't want to glue all of the pieces together. The grate goes in the rear of the nacelle, and the motor brace gets glued to the underside of the upper nacelle part in order to prevent the motor from popping up. The LED gets fed into the hole from the underside of the upper nacelle part and glued there. The switch holder and switch plate are the specific switches linked below, but I made the hole in the base top so you could design a switch holder that fits your switch.
-1x Micro gear motor N20 (6V 30RPM) with 3mmx10mm D shaft, example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143136194275
-1x 3x6x2.5mm ball bearing
-1x 2xAAA battery holder
-2x AAA batteries
-1x miniature switch, example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10Pcs-SPDT-ON-Off-Miniature-Slide-Switch-Electronic-Component-DIY-Power/173703033466
-1x slow flashing/blinking white 3mm LED
-thin insulated wire, ~1m
Running the 6V 30RPM motor at 3V yields about 15RPM, which is about the max speed of a normal wind turbine. 3V also happens to be perfect to run a white LED. Wiring is fairly straight forward, but make sure you check motor rotation direction and LED orientation before soldering the wires to them. This one is designed to rotate CCW when viewed from the front. If you mirror the blades, then you can have it rotate CW.
This model can't generate power because the blade Reynolds number is very different for the scale vs the real one. If you'd like to design your own functional blades, QMIL and QPROP are good programs (blade element theory) for doing this, though they have a pretty steep learning curve, and you kind of need an aerospace engineering background to understand them. Also, 3D printed blades this small might not be stiff enough.
Future work: I'll probably redesign the base bottom to have a latching door to make access to the AAA holder easier.
Most parts are designed for 0.5mm line width, but some might print better with smaller. You can print the mast and base with high layer heights (~0.25mm+), but the smaller parts will probably require smaller layer heights to come out well. Some parts, e.g. base upper, benefit from supports.