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Schwiizer

Toy-Transporter

by Schwiizer Feb 24, 2019
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I finally completed the Playmobil-compatible remix of the transporter :-)

Here it is:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3621904

Toy Transporter (Playmobil compatible)

One more question do you recommand a brim ? and how many skirt lines ? s3d say 8 hour for print of the chassis :/

No. No Brim or Raft needed. All Parts prints fine without.

PS: The Chassis took with my Settings 14 Hours ;-)

I printed without a brim. If your bed adhesion is good, that's not a problem.

(I ended up with one slightly warped corner on the hood. With a brim, I'd have had a lot of work removing it, and the edges would have been somewhat irregular as I use a hand-held cutting knife, which never gives a perfect cut.)

Skirt lines don't matter much, you just need enough material through the nozzle so that it starts fine when it comes to the actual print. For an object that size, I certainly wouldn't go beyond two loops.

I give now 0,5mm more Play

it s ok now :)

ok cool i will try later, perhaps before it was 0.2 but crealiy has a 0.4 motor step and can t use 0.2.

the 0.5 are for the diameter of the screw ? and also for the recess provided for the key?

Only for the outer Diameters of the Wheelscrew.

Hi i have some questions :

I printed 2 pieces that must fit together

Same brand of Sunlu PLA + yarn for both parts

Question/Problem 1:
The pink screw fits a little too hard in the wheel. The edges of the parts seem a little too big:/ (perhaps 0.2mm or 0.3)
Is that a problem with the value of "extrusion multiplier"? My caliper has not yet arrived, I have not yet been able to check the values of the parameters with the capiler. or can the problem come from somewhere else?

Questiion/Probleme2:
How do you find the surface of the black wheel? It's totally flat and clean but we could theoretically put a little more plastic to fill the spaces no?

Question/Question3
It was told to increase the value of the "coasting distance" parameter. It is currently at 0.2 but on the part we can see that there is not too much plastic, maybe a0.1 not enough. so I should then theoretically decrease to 0.1 no?

Queston4
Do you think it is possible to improve the printing without support (here screws)
I changed these values for my next test:
bridging extrusion multiply 100 to 115
bridging speed multiplier 100 to 85

Here are the pictures of the parameters and parts

do you see another problems?

Thank you:)

I would guess that the option "Dimensional Adjustments - Horizontal Size Compensation" could help you to get more precise results.

I believe it's probably the same parameter I know from Slic3er, where I set to to -0.15 mm, which gave very good results for the Toy Transporter.

One thing to check with the screw-to-wheel fit would be wether it's the "seam" on the inside of the wheel that interferes. From the photographs, it looks like there might be a "bump" in the surface, which you could try to sand down for a better fit.

Hi! :)

It is actually a hole (the connection between two layers)

The problem is that if I decrease the size (with "Dimensional Adjustments - Horizontal Size Compensation" ) of the screw I guess the key will no more work this the weehl. In addition, the parameter reduces only on the dimensions x and y

Normally, the problem is only in x and y, so the option makes sense.

I think parts are too big horizontally because the filament extends to both sides of the nozzle path. In the z axis, the process is different, so it's not affected.

Try printing one wheel, one screw and the key with the same parameters, in my opinion that should work fine. It worked for me, at least :-)

you really have some space between the wheel and the screw? so that the wheel turns without the screw turning (without too much force)

as I said before, I hadn't changed the printing settings (between the wheel and the screw, just the son)

Yes :-)

With my first print, I had the same problem as you, though ... quoting from further down in the comments:

"One thing I can't quite figure out: How is the wheel supposed to turn? It's sort of stuck if I tighten the screw fully, and if I don't, it becomes unscrewed when it rolls in one direction."

Fixed by entering the parameter I pointed out, and also by printing the wheel vertically flipped as it was upside-down back then.

ok but you means XY Size Compensation" set to -0.2 mm for the screw but not for the wheel, because if you reduce both you will have the same probleme no ?

how it works if I enter the value a -0.02, it will decrease the overall size of my piece ( Idee2) or it retracts the whole piece (Idee1, it means that in Idee 1 I have a little more space for a future axis)

If you reduce both, they will fit.

You can set this parameter once and pretty much forget about it, it will work for all models.

What it does is to "pull" the outline of each layer a tiny bit inwards, including the outline of holes, so that the printer actually print to the nominal dimensions.

This is sort of difficult to understand as it's not well-explained anywhere, and it took a while for me to wrap my head around it, but now I've found the value that works for me, printing is a lot smoother for me! :-)

Yes. There is some Space between the Wheel and the Screw. It should spin complete free.

i guess it s better to give more space in the model

Good Morning

I added a Screw with smaller Diameter so you have more Tolerance.
The Key you can make smaller with Scaling in your Slicer.
Also the Step-File is added. You can make yourself Changes in Fusion 360 ;-)

One more question do you recommand a brim ? and how many skirt lines ? s3d say 8 hour for print of the chassis :/

i will install the trial version of fusion and try to understand :)

How much tolerance you had with the original part and now with the new Screw. Thanks for the nice job :)

Hello

Answer 1: I think the Problem is you Z-Seam. Take to test the Seam Postion Random and not aligned.

Answer 2: The Bottom-Sufrace looks bad to me. Your Live-Z is to high. The first Layer should be a closed Surface.

Answer 3 & 4: Sadly i can't help with this. I'm not a Expert on Print-Settings. Sorry.

The Parts should be fit together without Problems. I printes all Parts as here uploaded on a Prusa Mk3 and had no Problems.

) do you know where is this option in S3d ?
2: ok i will try

It's just that the problem is with me. It must probably print the walls a little too big. The key is too big for the screw, the screw too big for the wheel lol

Playmobil Driver's Seat Module:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3531393

Parametric Playmobil Driver's Seat

Thanks, glad you like it! :-)

but where can i download your body for playmobil ? Thx :)

I'll publish it shortly ... I still need to clean up the design a tiny little bit :-)

Towhook module so the Transporter can tow Playmobil trailers:

https://www.thingiverse.com/make:629229

There's a new group "Toy designers" by the way ... come join us and add your transporter to the list! :-)

Toy-Transporter

Oops, this is the tow hook link atually ...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3526023

Towhook Module (Playmobil compatible) for Toy Transporter

Almost finished make with Playmobil driver and doors:

Making progress ... left half still in print though :-)

What are the tolerances for the fit?

I've printed the chassis and the fenders, and even after boring out the pin holes to 8 mm, I can't assemble the parts. (It might work with a hammer, but I'd never be able to take them apart again.)

The fault probably lies with my printer (which overextrudes more than most, but if I fix that, I get poor layering). However it seems your design is using cones and ramps everywhere to ensure it assembles nicely even if the tolerances are a bit loose :-) So I think it might work just as good for everyone with larger tolerances, and better for those with overextruding printers, with slightly larger tolerances.

(It seems that I need about 0.5 mm between two surfaces that are meant to move against each other.)

Hello Bikecyclist

I don't use Cones. All Surfaces are straight.

The Tolerances from the Cylinders are not very big.
They are 0,25mm. The Hole the Chassis should be 8,25mm and the Cylinder on the Fender should be 8,00mm.

I can make a Version with 8,5mm for you if this help.
The Fenders fit in the Body or is it also to tight?

I can make new Fenders with smaller Cylinders and a smaller Ramp.
Let me know ;-)

Everthing seems to work fine now ... see photograph.

One thing I can't quite figure out: How is the wheel supposed to turn? It's sort of stuck if I tighten the screw fully, and if I don't, it becomes unscrewed when it rolls in one direction. (Can't tell forward from backward yet ;-)

There must also be a Gap between the Chassis and the Screw to the Wheel. Mine turn's without any Problem.

Best is you calibrate your Printer right before printing Things with smaller Tolerances like my Transporter ;-)

Not quite sure yet what the problem is - it's the z axis this time. Printed wheel height is 24.8 mm.

Is there a reason the wheel is oriented outside-down in the STL file? That results in an overhang with curved bridges, on a face that's important for accuracy. (I have some hanging loops there.) I think I'll try to print another wheel outside-up to see if that works better ...

You can see on Photo 3 the Orientation of every Piece. The Wheel is on the wrong side when you load it. I dont know how to turn without turning it in my Model in Fusion 360. I must them turn after export or so. But i dont know how to make it.

I used Slic3r to flip the wheel, and save it ... here it is:

Ah this is easy =)
I flip all Parts now in the right Position and reupload it^^
Thanks Man!

Glad to help! I'm learning new stuff here, too! :-)

Printed the flipped wheel, and it's perfect now. I thought about suggesting a washer between chassis and wheel, but it doesn't seem to be necessary at all!

I wasn't thinking of conical "Abwicklungen", just of the "Ansenkung" of the big central hole in the fender :-)

Thanks for the dimensions! I'll try to print with Slic3r's "XY Size Compensation" set to -0.2 mm to get the tolerances right.

The pins came out as 8.1 mm in my print, and the holes somewhat smaller than 8 mm. Problem is, I only have drills up to 8 mm, in 1 mm steps, so I can't just drill out the chassis to make the fenders fit. I suppose that wouldn't help me with the threads anyway (though a screw can probably be scaled down easily).

I've been wanting to try the "XY Compensation" feature for a while now ... I've noticed it's not so good for thin (single-line) walls, but for the robust parts of the transporter, it will hopefully work just fine! :-)

Beautiful design!

The cabin seems just the right size for a Playmobil figure ... do you think it would be possible to add a seat for one?

I'd also like to suggest adding a tow hook so the transporter can be put to serious use ;-)

Good Morning Bikecyclist

Thank you very much!

Sadly i have no Playmobil Figures here to test if it fit.
Also i have no Trailer here.

The Fusion-File is included. When you want you can do it yourself ;-)
I can try to design something to it. But if it fit i can't test.

Kindly Regards
Schwiizer

I tried fit my seat unit into the transporter cabin, and it's almost a perfect fit! :-)

Have a look at the pictures ...

The cabin is to small to actually install the unit separately after printing (in the unmodified transporter), but one can add it to the 3D model, and it will fit. (It's not yet printable as shown, it's just an illustration. There are also some hollow spaces one would want to eliminate in the final model.)

The problem with placing Playmobil figures in driver's seats is that the legs always interfer with the steering wheels. The normal methods to put a figure in the seat are

  • either from above (more intuitive), which would require an open (or removable) top,
  • or from the side, which would require a door cutout to match the side profile of the figure.

I'd also tend to cut off the lower third of the steering wheel, which is a technique Playmobil occasionally uses too. Using flexible plastics for the steering wheel is a neat cheat, but I don't think many people have suitable filament or equipment to print that.

I'm also thinking that maybe I should give the steering wheel a snap-in axle ... probably not in the first version though.

I found a little trailer here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3051258

The pin of the hook has a diameter of 3.8 mm, is 9.5 mm long and starts 26 mm above the ground

Playmobil trailer

I'm working on a self-contained "Playmobil driver seat" unit ... probably it's possible to import STLs into Fusion to add them to the design, or at least check the fit?

Comments deleted.

Oops ... meant to attach this photograph.

This is tricker than I thought ...

Playmobil actually "cheats" in this issue by making the steering wheels from special flexible material. I should have taken that as a warning! :-)

But I'd say I have it cornered now ... I still have to brush up the code before uploading it, but I like the print. The wheel can actually turn, thus the two-part design. It uses an M3 x 20 mm screw - not ideal, but snap fits make things even trickier.

Everything can be a Playmobil vehicle now! ;-)

Thanks for considering my suggestions!

It's actually tempting to try my hand at contributing to your design, but I'm more of an OpenSCAD man myself ... not to mention I've got a lot of other unfinished stuff lying around.

Just for the record (because now I'm curious myself :-):

  • Playmobil figures have a nominal height of 75 mm (actual, bare-headed: 72 mm), in sitting position soles-to-back 36 mm, height 49 mm posterior-to-top-of-head (bare-headed), 36.5 mm largest width (at the hands).
  • Lego minifigs have a height of 40.5 mm (bare-headed), in sitting position soles-to-back 15 mm, height 32.5 mm posterior-to-top-of-head (bare-headed), 25.5 mm largest width (at the hands).

Awesome design, can’t wait to print this for my son. I’m trying to add his name under the window but for some reason Fusion 360 won’t let me extrude the text. Will figure it out eventually.

Thank you very much!
It will be nice when you post a Picture of your Make ;-)