makergear m2 e3d filament drive and ez removable fan duct

by Mrcleanr6, published

makergear m2 e3d filament drive and ez removable fan duct by Mrcleanr6 May 27, 2014
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15492Views 1865Downloads Found in 3D Printer Extruders


this uses a slight remix of rsilvers filament drive and a little inspiration from neousagi. i have added some dovetails to the sides if the filament drive then designed an easily removable hot end cover that slips on to the filament drive. with the stock 30mm fan duct its difficult to remove the e3d hot end because you have to slide the duct off the top or bottom of the cooling fins. now you can just slide the cover off and remove the hotend. very easy just like the way the stock makergear hotend is to service. i have now updated the files to include versions for the v5 and v6 hot end. i have also designed an easily removable bed fan duct which uses a 40mm fan. this is a quick 2sec on off so you dont have to keep your bed fan on the machine unless you need it. the hinge pin on the duct just catches in the groove on the the 30mm cover then it just rotates down and snaps in place with a couple detents.
NOTE: a couple people have mentioned the parts fit a little tight. please read the instructions.

update 3/11/15 : i removed the old bed cooling duct and uploaded a 2nd revision. this duct is moved out about 1/8" so that it is centered on the heater block. this also allows slightly more room for the extruder wiring.


this is modeled in rhino5. once you print this use some 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the layer marks from all the edges and face of the dovetails on the drive and duct. once you do that the duct should slide on and off like butter. both files print very easy with support but be sure to remove support on the duct from inside the dovetail area since it can be hard to remove from the tiny corners.
the fit on the dovetails is made a little tight. you are supposed to sand the layer marks out so the male and female part of the dovetails are nice and smooth. even if its modeled to be loose i found a sliding action is tough because of the layers grabbing. they make like teeth. if i make it any looser then by the time you sand everything smooth it will be too loose. a little 220 grit sand paper on all the sliding parts to smooth them out makes a world of difference. mine slides on and off easily with just 2 fingers and has a nice machined fit and feel to the sliding operation. print all the parts 90-100% solid.

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not really. if it was lower it would be almost directly on top of your printed model and only be cooling directly under the duct with no room for air to escape. it should direct the majority of the flow just under the block to cool the plastic as its extruded. despite how it appears by the shape of the duct and the points, its not blowing all the air directly on block. very little hits there but it takes very little air movement to cool the block and nozzle. when its initially turned on, depending on your pid settings it may drop temp for a couple seconds until the heater kicks on. that would be totally normal.

Hey was just wondering about the duct. Shouldn't it hang 10mm lower than it is setup currently? Mine seems to blow quite a bit on the heater block. I get a temporary 6-7 degrees drop when the fan switches on. Or is that intentional by design?

well i probably print more ninjaflex than anyone. i have an m2 just dedicated to running it 24/7. the drive works fantastic. ninjaflex will always bind up in anything though if you extrude too fast

Out of interest how well does the filament drive handle Ninjaflex when feeding? Does it ever bind up in the extruder hob?

yes with a 140deg enclosure that changes the game a little and i can see a fan on the drive being needed. im not sure about your drive gear but on a long print at normal temps my gear doesnt get too much higher than room temp without a fan. luke warm at best.

I am running a second 24v fan blowing directly into my filament drive. I believe that it is bad for PLA to touch a boiling-hot pinion and that it leads to reliability issues. This is especially true for people like me who have an enclosure (I have a print going now, and the ambient temp inside is 140F). So even if you have no problem, there is someone who does not have AC in their room, or has an enclosure, that would benefit from a cooler pinion. I would like to add a second fan to the top of the cover for this purpose - perhaps as an alternative cover. Also it may be good to open a gap on the left of the pinion to allow the air to more easily blow in there and then go out the exhaust hole that I put on the left side.

Where are you pulling the 24 volts from? My extruder motor gets HOT and I'm wondering if there's spare 24v available on the M2.

Do you by chance have the V5 and V6 covers swapped? The V6 one is a little short, I am printing the V5 one because it looks a little longer.

no the v6 hot end is much smaller than a v5. the v6 cover matches the size for the v6 hot end.

Hrmm, I checked pictures of the V5, I decidedly have a V6 (which is what I ordered); however, the duct only comes about half way down the heater block, do most of the air coming out of the duct is blowing on the block, not the filament coming out of the nozzle.

printing with mine right now. you can easily feel the air blowing across the bed on the opposite side of the hot end. dont pay attention to where the points on the duct are aiming.

some updates on this. i added a clamping hinge to the 30mm cover and designed a quick removable bed duct. there are now files for all 3 pieces that fit v5 and v6