This is an enclosure I made for my Ender 3. I was getting frustrated with other enclosures since there were very poor instructions and tons of files.
Below are the entire instructions for construction, to help you out. I've also only included the files that you need for this. Additionally, there should be two Word documents (one with directions, and one with accompanying images) for your use.
If there are any updates, I'll put them here.
Expect updates for:
-updated filament hole guide
Update (4/12/19): I used the same magnetic door catch for the side doors as for the front door. When installing, make sure the two components are in contact first, then securing to the plexiglass and the pillars next.
Plexi glass sizes used:
2x (22.5 x 53.5)mm (size for double doors)
1x (44 x 53.5)mm (size for large side door)
2x (44.5 x 53.5)mm (size for back panels)
With that being said, please build your enclosure first, then measure once, measure twice, and then measure again before ordering/cutting plexiglass. I made sure there was a little bit of wiggle room for the doors/hinges so they don't rub against each other or the pillars.
Please leave comments for others with tips, or comments for me if there is anything that is unclear/was overlooked.
Instructions. This didnt format nicely, so the references to the steps may not correlate. Please refer to the word document, its better anyway.
Ender 3 Enclosure Instructions by Croctopus
Total Dimensions:28.7in x 38.4in x 28.7 in
Foreword: I don’t have much woodworking/building experience, so this should be relatively easy for everyone (refer to the supplemental Images Word Document) . Make sure you have the right drillbits, because this can make a huge difference. When screwing screws into plexiglass,do it with a screwdriver, and stabilize the back side of the plexi glass next to the incoming screw with your fingers, this may help decrease cracking. There are several things that can be 3d printed (hinges,right-angle brackets), all which I just purchased at Home Depot/Lowe’s because I didn’t want to wait since I’m impatient. I would invest in an electronic caliper, especially since if you plan on ever making anything for yourself, this will help tremendously. I know this looks like a lot, but I wanted to be detailed. I added a lot of commentary/warnings/tips so you can preplan your construction. Try to read through it once with the pictures to give yourself an idea. Any feedback is welcome, especially tips on how to improve the construction or make it easier for those constructing in the future. There is a reddit thread which may have more information for you as well (https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/avlvkd/my_new_ender_3_enclosure/) .
Everything was printed in PLA, 0.3mm layer height (unless otherwise specified), using Cura and Ender3.
• Base (bottom-most wood)
• Bridge (middle-most wood, this is what the printer sits on)
• Ceiling (top-most wood).
• Pillars (legs of the LACK tables)
• Corners/risers (3D printed mounts for the pillars. These will hold the pillars and plexiglass in place)
o 3x Ikea lack tables ($8.99/each)
o Remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3083358
Uprights_riser_10mm.stl was the file used to remix
I created a slot in the triangle sidebars hold the plexi (so as to not drill into the plexi and risk cracking it), but you can still drill through it if you’d like (can use the original risers from the link above, or the ones I have provided, both have holes). Alternatively, you can also use double sided scotch tape (surprisingly strong) to hold up the plexi, like I did. I outline these options further down.
You can print out 4 risers at a time on an Ender 3. I would suggest higher infill ~60% for the corners/risers. Although you can go lower since they aren’t holding much weight.
Plexi-holding corners: If you plan on having the plexi being held by the corners (with 1 double door and one large door on the left), I would make 1 gcode file with 1xDouble Holder, 1x Double Blocker, 1x Singleholder Singleblocker 1, and 1x Singleholder Singleblocker 2 (which has the holder on a different side than ShSb1), and print it twice. one set will be for the top corners, and one for the bottom corner. Each set should take ~15hrs to print depending on your print speed. The big downside Is that if you want to remove the plexi, you’ll have to take the ceiling off as well (8 screws total). (Image 16)
Scotch tape method/drill method: It doesn’t matter which corners/risers you print, as they’ll all have the same functionality. You can print the ones I remixed, the original, the other risers in the original file’s parent project, they all work.
If none of that made sense to you, forget it and keep reading further.
• 16x right angle brackets (for attaching base+bridge with pillars). They’re each 1” x 1”. I’m sure anything around that size works fine.
• 2x magnetic cabinet brackets (Image 8a)
• Plexiglass (0.093 inches thickness)
• 32 #8 9/16inch screws (metal to wood) (for attaching bridge+ceiling with pillars) (Image 13).These screws are self-piercing metal to wood screws that are perfect length/diameter
o FYI, don’t go crazy trying to get these same ones, just make sure you have enough screws that’ll bite in into the corners and into the wood.
• Scotch Permanent double sided mounting tape
o Holds 10lbs
- Cut one set of pillars
- Build the base + bridge
- Create second set of pillars
- Screw bottom corners to pillars
- Scotch tape/drill method for plexiglass (the one I used)
a. Screw top corners to pillars
b. Screw both top/bottom corners+ pillars to bridge and ceiling
c. Screw hinges to plexiglass
d. Mount plexi to corners.
- Corner holder method for plexiglass (can always be converted to scotch tape/drill method)
a. Slide plexi into the bottom corner holders
b. Screw top corner holders onto the pillars
c. Screw pillars + plexi onto bridge + ceiling.
- Additions/personal modifications
Construction directions (please refer to supplemental image file for pictures)
- Cut 4 pillars at 11” from side so that the short side has the pre-drilled hole. I would cut them using a table saw so you can get very straight lines.
a. The long piece(~11in) is named “pillar A”.
i. Will be used to connect base + bridge
b. The short piece(~4.6in) is now “pillar B”.
i. Will be connected to long pillar 3 (future steps)
- Drill holes using a 5mm drillbit, from the bottom of the base (where there are currently holes), through the blacktop.
a. This will be used to connect to the pillars A with double sized screws.
- Drill corresponding holes into pillars A.
- Connect pillars A and the base at the blacktop. (Image 1)
a. If it doesn’t screw down all the way, unscrew-out the pillar, and use pliers to get the bottom half of the screw down, then screw the pillar back on top
b. This might cause it be a bit wobbly, no worries, that’s why we have the next step.
- Screw the right-angle brackets(8) to the sides of the pillars A,connecting to the base. 2 brackets per pillar. (Image 2)
a. This is also a good time to add felt pads to the bottom of the enclosure, so it slides easily across the floor without scratching anything.
- Flip the bridge upside down (so the wood is facing up), then place the pillars A+base onto the upside down bridge
a. Screw the brackets (8) to the sides of the pillars, connecting to the bridge(Image 3)
- Take another set of stock pillars (now called pillars C) and using the double sided screw, attach them to pillars B. This newer, longer pillar, (pillar BC) total should be around ~21in. (Image 4). Before screwing it in all the way, I used a black marker to color in the edges all the pillars so that the wood doesn’t show. (Image 5)is a comparison of what colored is (left) versus not colored (right). It should be taller than your Ender 3 (without the spool holder). If you want the keep the spool holder on your ender 3, then just take 2 sets of normal pillars and put them together (~30in). This should be enough, but measure it out and make sure (take into account the risers).Next,screw in the bottom corners to your new pillars BC.
a. Follow these steps if you want your plexi to be held by the corner + its slits. If you want to drill/double sided tape it, skip to the next step. I don’t have any images for this, because I chose not to go down this path. Otherwise, skip to Step 8. Measurements for the plexi I used are
b. Screw in the bottom corners to your pillars BC and bridge only. Look at step 11 for a tip on plexi glass cutting. The plexi glass may not reach all the way through the slits on the corners, so there will be a gap. Go to the store with a corner, and slide some plexi in the slit to see how far it will go. If you’re okay with that, continue.
c. Once you measure out how much plexi you need (measure 3x), buy it and get it cut. Fit the plexi so that the bottom corners hold it up, and place + screw the top corners onto the pillars BC so that they’re also securing the plexi.
d. Screw in the top corners to the ceiling.
e. Congrats! You’re done with your frame! Skip to step 16.
- Screw the top corners onto your pillars BC.
- I screwed the front pillars BC to the bridge, and the back pillars BC to the ceiling. Then I put the ceiling+back pillars onto the bridge+front pillars, and screwed them all in. You probably don’t have to do this, but I did so that the ceiling can sit on the pillars more securely while I screwed it down (or up).
- Now you have your frame complete!
- Measure + cut width of plexiglass. Make sure you leave a little bit of room for the doors to swing open, for any wires that may have to slip out the back (refer to step 16c). If you buy your plexiglass at Lowe’s, they’ll cut it for you (not true with Home Depot, although contact your local stores to find out). Measure it once, then twice, and then a 3rd time. You don’t want to buy an extra plexiglass, because that’s probably the most expensive part of this project.
a. Here are my measurements for comparison:
i. Warning: I USED THE TAPE METHOD, NOT THE HOLDER METHOD. These dimensions won’t work unless you use the tape method.
ii. Double doors: 2 of (8.65in x 21in)
- One 18x24 sheet should be enough for this.
iii. Side door: 1 of (17.3in x 21)
- This is slightly smaller than the walls to allow for smooth movement and no catching on the pillars.
- One 18x24 sheet should be enough for this.
iv. Walls: 2 of (17.5in x 21in)
- One 30x36 sheet should be enough for these.
- I secured the plexi glass using metal hinges for the doors, or heavy duty double sided tape for the “walls”. (Image 6)
- Done with the frame.
- Drill holes for your hinges, and screw them in (Image 7).
- For the front doors, I wanted to make something simple, but didn’t want to drill anymore into the plexi for risk of cracking. So I took apart a magnetic cabinet catch(Images 8), and 3d printed handles (0.2mm layer height). This way, the doors will keep each other shut through magnetism. Check out the files for the handles (left/right handle, left/right top cover, left/right spacer.stl). The purpose of the spacers is to keep the metal brackets in place inside of the handle. The left spacer sits on-top, the right spacer sits vertically to the side.
a. This can also be rigged for the side door, which I haven’t got to yet.
a. The entire reason why I made my own enclosure (as opposed to using the guide of someone elses) is because I wanted the spool holder, and eventually all the electronics and any supplies, underneath the bridge with all my printer supplies. For this reason, I screwed the spool holder underneath the bridge (Image 9), and made sure that the spool would align with the frame properly. If you’d like to do that, continue reading (i-iv). These same steps can be taken to mount the spoolholder to the top of the enclosure, just cut through the ceiling instead. Alternatively, you could also drill this to the underside of the ceiling in a good position, just make sure it wont interfere with your print bed/extruder at any extreme of movement.
i. Cut a hole in the bottom and top of the bridge for filament hole guide (filament hole guide top/bottom.stl). I would print out the guide first, then cut so that it fits snugly. There is a slight defect with the guide which makes it non-symmetric, but its still pretty nice and functional. If you don’t like the guide, there are a few more on thingiverse that I found to be nice, like this one: (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047638) .
- Dimensions of hole: 33mm x 7mm, or whatever you measure from the guide you print.
- Print out the filament hole guide to make this hole look pretty(Images 10).
- The next step outlines a filament guide I remixed, just make sure the initial hole you cut lines up with the filamentGuide.stl in Step 16a-ii.
ii. I also created another filament guide (filamentGuide.stl) (Image 11) that goes well with the first filament hole guide. This was remixed from : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2894097
- Its not the prettiest, but it’ll do.
- Try to
iii. Also, when sliding the filament into the Bowden tubing, it will be easier to get it in, if you cut the filament at an angle (since this angle will correct the trajectory once it hits resistance). I cut it so the sharp end is pointing towards the back of the printer.
b. I used the double sided tape to tape the PSU to the underside. (Image 12) It cuts it close with the power supply cable, because I had to slip it underneath the back plexi. The only thing I regret about it, is that it’s a pain to power on/off the Ender 3 since the button is on the on the back underside of the bridge. If this is sitting on a table, maybe it woundn’t be as bad. If its on the floor, its not fun. I’ll probably do something different eventually , like getting an extension and replacing the PSU to somewhere more accessible. I’ve heard of people put it INSIDE of the bridge. I’m not sure if it’ll heat up or not so do it at your own risk. If you’re not up for any of that, you’ll have to (1) leave space for the power cable to run underneath one of the plexi walls, or (2) cut either the enclosure or the plexi to support the power cable coming from the PSU to the outlet.
c. LEDBERG LED light strip. I got it from Ikea ($24). It perfectly fits 2 LED strips down the middle(Image 15),. Pros: you have an extra strip to spare. Cons: I wish I could make a square of LED lights instead of one straight line down the center, although it still looks great in my opinion. I double sided taped the controller to the top left corner of the enclosure, so I just have to reach to the top to turn it on/off. (Image 14)
d. Fire safety: This is a hot topic (lol), with fiery debates (lolol) between heated parties (lololol). I added a smoke detector (Image 15), and will probably add Stovetop firestop soon, for safety. There are huge threads on fire safety (i.e flashing with a bootloader and uploading TH3D, which I also plan on doing soon). There are a few great threads on reddit/ender3 and reddit/3dprinting about fire safety