Note, i haven't printed and tested this in it's entirety yet! Let me know if you have issues
A modular toilet paper shelf to make your own cloud. I was inspired by the design here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3113094 but wanted to create it in a way that i could customize the cloud shape whenever i wanted.
This shelf is multiple pieces that you can choose from, print, and assemble to get your own custom toilet paper cloud of any size you wish. This is made to fit the 125mm diameter rolls i had.
All pieces will work together in any order. The connectors are located such that any 2 pieces put together will have the same effective curve to hold the toilet paper rolls. The shape of the cloud you make will depend on the combination pieces used. If you use just the 30 degree pieces then you'll have a hex grid, if you use just the 45s then you'll have a square/diamond type grid, etc. Combinations of angles will work fine but you won't have a clean grid but this isn't necessarily a bad thing.
Be sure and print 2 end caps along with whatever other pieces you like.
End cap - to, uh... cap the shelf nicely
L connector - a 90 degree section of a circle. note this piece does NOT have a screw hole and is mainly meant to finish off the end of the shelf, along with an end cap. You do not have to use this though.
45 Degree Left side - the left side of a joint of two 45 degree angle pieces. This means that if used in series the rolls would create a 45 degree line (from horizontal) going up and to the right
45 Degree right side - same as above but the right side, and if used in series makes a -45 degree line from horizontal going down and right.
30, 20, and 15 degree pieces that work in same fashion as the 45s, but with the indicated angle instead
Flat Connector - in series these let you line up rolls horizontally
In the renter I show, from left to right: End cap, L connector, 45DegRight, 45Deg Left, 45DegRight, Flat connector, 20DegLeft, 15DegRight, L connector, End cap.
Screw holes in this design are 5mm diameter so most any screw should work, they are 10mm deep so be sure and use a longish screw. Of course going into a stud is best but using mollies should be fine too, toiletpaper isn't THAT heavy.
The joint gaps are 0.3mm which should be ok for most printers. This means you ideally shouldn't have to sand anything to get the joints to slide together.
10% at least, more is always better but makes print time longer
Any resolution should work fine, i'm currently printing this at 0.24mm per layer and it seems to be ok. As long as your layers are adhering, you should be fine.
Infill is only minimally needed but you can certainly crank it up if you like. Note that the shelf parts are mostly hollow, but have 1mm thick supports going across. Any infill you use will mostly be in the screw hole areas and a little bit in the joint itself.
HIGHLY recommend using 3 to 5 perimeters. The outside walls are currently set at 2mm thick so whatever # of perimeters will allow you to make that entire area as walls and not use infill there is what you should use, for strength and rigidity. I.E. if you are using a 0.4mm nozzle then 3 perimeters works 3 x 0.4=1.2, 1.2 perimeters from both sides is 2.4 which is perfect. If you use 2 perimeters then you'll have a gap between the walls that infill will be needed for and the part may be less strong. 2 x 0.4=0.8, from both sides = 1.6 of wall and 0.4 gap will need infill.
I used Fusion 360 to design this. I'm still a newb at Fusion but have used CAD in general in the long long ago. I designed this entirely using parametrics so that I can adjust any dimension easily and the whole thing will still work. This was a great learning experience, though it took me WAY too long to design it from start to finish and I'm sure there are many efficiencies I missed out on.
I was inspired to create this after seeing this design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3113094
At first i created an almost direct rip off of it for myself with an aim to use 4 pieces and make it to fit on my printer bed (ender 3) and i finished the design. But after getting to a certain point and realizing how hard it would be to go back and change some things I wanted to update, i started from scratch on a fully parametric design instead. I may post the more direct rip off, as it's very similar to the one linked but is more curved and only 4 pieces.
I wanted my design to be more rounded, modular, easy to put together, and able to be held to the wall no matter what pieces were used (mostly). Hopefully I've achieved this though I'm certain there is plenty of room for improvement.