by hlyman, published

LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II by hlyman Nov 16, 2012



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The LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II is a redesign or the original LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER. It features less wood parts and more steel parts, as well as other material changes. The BOM includes quotations of custom parts from emachineshop.com. It is designed for resubmittion to DFC to overcome their objection to the parts being fabricated by me as custom parts.


The manual includes the instructions for fabrication and operation. See the original LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER for the stl files.

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i downloaded this thing but when i open the 3d printed models in cura, they are way way to small, but cura says they are scaled to 100 percent. my lyman can u please help me

Folks, I am not supporting any other Lyman Extruder now except V6 (Lyman Filament Extruder V6). I have three working one for white, one for black and the third for other colors. My last 1 kg spool tested at +/- .03mm. It is vertically mounted and the spool wind system is separate.

can i use this pid controller that i already order http://goo.gl/Ds9XLg and can you take pictures for your wiring or take the video your extruder extrude the filament, i want to build 1 myself

Your PID should work. Read the manual. No other support for this old extruder.

Have you considered building a 3D project around an Arduino or other microcontroller? How about printing a bracket to mount your Raspberry Pi to the back of your HD monitor? And don’t forget the countless LED projects that are possible when you are modeling your projects in 3D!

Is it compatible with all printer ?

I only extrude filament with my V5 extruder now and I use ABS filament which I print on one ORD and on TAZ3 printers. So, I would assume the filament would work on other printers.

What are your recommendations for modifying this assembly to extrude a narrow sheet (~1.5" wide, 1mm thick), instead of a filament.

hi.. i have done this but the problem is that my motor gets stop while runnig and i have to move it maually then again it works..the problem is that is there any high torque motor than this??

Will I need a 3d printer to complete this project

If you don't have a 3D printer you won't need a filament extruder.

I plan on getting a printer but before I do I want a filament extruder cause I'm not paying 50 bucks for a role of filament

And I just found out about v3

You can use any auger that will fit correctly inside the core barrel. Again trial & error.

can you publish the size and dimension of custom made material....ems file...:)

No, I do not support version II anymore. See V3 for a better extruder. You can build just the extruder alone.

Hi guys,

So my friends and I have finished constructing our version of this thing, and the main problem we're encountering with it is that the pellets bind up in the pipe; from what we can tell, they just get caught between the drill it and the pipe and the whole mechanism just gets stuck.

We're going to try re-doing the gears for more torque; maybe our motor just isn't supplying enough as it is. Has anyone else run into a problem like this? How is it prevented normally?


i had suffered from the same problem...what kind of motor do you use??do you use wiper motor or other gear motor??i used a geared motor not wiper motor.......

I can't answer your problem. See the extruder in my V3 extruder. I use a pellet that is oval in shape, but also the others work as well, only giving a cracking sound as they get broken up entering the pipe. Try the pellets that http://Inventables.comInventables.com sells.

Also tolerances between your auger to pipe could be your problem. Trial and error is what I do.

how much do you have to upscale the sprockets before 3D printing?


It has a better Extruder in the assembly.

See Video:


HI!! great machine. Just've dowloaded your file and i have a few questions.
1º-What's the point of the item 16 (Heat bearer insulator)? what does it do? Why can't you use just a large pipe and hold it with 2 items 6 (Hopper base)?
2º- Can it go faster just changing the motor? or it would take also a larger bit and more ºC?

3º- I don' get how you warm the tube end, i see the thermocoupler, but that is for checking the Tº or to raise it?
Thanks again!!!

how many distance between part 39 and part 10 ?
my extruder has 1 inch distance from auger bit to nozzle.
is it correct?

i have problem.
i make extruder but ABS don't exude from nozzle
i check temperature on 212" and 230" and 270".
please help me

Can''t help, you must have built it wrong. New version 3 extrudes with 175 temp.

Maybe you are using the wrong pellets. My first versions I was using the wrong pellets. They were the injection molding version. That is why it took 212 C to extrude. My new version V3 I am using extrusion grade pellets and extruding at 175 C.

I have been looking at building one of these, and wondering how much power the whole thing pulls? I run my garage off of solar, so trying to calculate all current drain to see how well it will run.

About 300w peak. If you're power conscious, look into the Filastruder - it draws 50w.

ok, I'll try to see how thier hot end works then and add it to your design somehow, I like the simplicity of your design.

HI hlyman;

I have been follow your progress and its seem the confusion with version1 and 2 really get a lot of question. Is it too much to ask that you could unify into say one Final version or version3...?


I don't know if it's just me being dim, but I can't find where the parts are on emachineshop. Is there anywhere that I can find the CAD files?



You will not find the emachineshop files as they were only produced for pricing the parts for the DFC competition. DXF files were uploaded on my first version.

Hi. Congrats to everyone.

I am having trouble wring the Thermocouple on the PID.

I have close-to-none experience on PIDs. I bought a XMGT-818 PID, which is different than the one onthe BOM. I have set the Input power to the PID and the ouput to the SSR relay, but I cannot understand the connection to the thermocouple. On the diagram it points that there are 3 input pins, like on a variable resistor, but the thermocouple has only a red and a white wire.

Please help me here! I need some light...

Thanks in advance.

The PID should have separate + & - terminals for the thermocouple. Just make sure you connect them correctly. Not knowing your PID I can't tell where they are.

Thanks for answering, Mr. Lyman. How can I send you a drawing/photo of the diagram?

Please refer to this page:

On page 1 at right there's a description of the pins. 3, 4 and 5 are for input of the thermocouple, but the termocouple has just 2 terminals.

Thanks again for your help, and congrats for your winning design.

Mr. Lyman, on the wiring diagram of the TA4, it shows pin 6(-), pin 7(+) but in your design it shows pin 7(-) and pin 8(+). this is what is confusing me.

On your PID try terminals 4 and 5 for the thermocouple.

Hugh... found it below... thanks.

Hugh, what is the approximate position of the tip of the screw in relation to the brass outlet fitting ? and have you had any problems with this spacing that had to be adjusted?

The wiring Diagram does NOT work.
The "White Neutral" line goes to the Solid State Relay and STOPS.
The relay is Normally Open and power does not go to the power supply at all.
The part of the wiring that shows the White Neutral passing OVER and not connecting to the power supply is wrong.

Power MUST be connected to the power supply to power the PID and everything else that feeds off the power supply (Motor, voltage reg etc)

Please fix your wiring diagram to save other people time.

You are right.
Just remove the pass over half circle line from the wiring diagram and that will indicate the 110v neutral line connecting to the PID and the RELAY.

I'm struggling to find the Type K thermocoupler. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to find and buy one? Thanks

ebay. $3!
Or they are included FREE with your PID (Temp controller)

Thank you for taking the extra time to make a detailed instruction guide. You make the difference.

I am building an extruder with 3/4" diameter screw.

Using an industrial quality 90VDC gearmotor and KB brand motor controller I am lucky enough to have in my pack rat pile of stuff.

Can't see why the hopper section cannot be steel pipe nipple and two flanges instead of custom made aluminum parts that Hyman calls out.

This is what I am going to try, just cut and opening in a section of pipe where the hopper goes.

If anyone knows a reason that won't work let me know.

What is recommended clearance between the screw and the bores?
As close as possible without binding?

Also I am unsure how close the screw should come to the end. I read one post where they said the thermocouple should come through the wall and into the bore to contact the plastic. They said in this case you would want the screw to end before that so it does not hit it. But would not the thermocouple be fine just clamped to the heater aluminum?

Also wonder if it world be good to use or at lleast allow for two heaters.

This is what is done on industrial extruders to warm the plastic in two stages.

I plan to try running a variety of different plastics including Alcryn Rubber and other flexible stuff.

Dave McHenry 678 849-1924

The extruder parts can be anything that works. All your ideas may be better than mine.

To me it is so simple to use a Type K thermocouple that I just stuck on top of the barrel and wrapped kapton tap around it.

I have used different spacings of the auger end to the nozzle and all of them worked. Right now I have one at 1/4" spacing on my V3 model.

i living in Iran and can't buy ABS pellets from ebay.
what grade of ABS use for 3d printer?


tank you for answer, but this site don't have information about grade of ABS that use for 3d printer

Hi :)
i'm trying to build my own Extruder.
ever tryed to Change pipe Diameter? In Europe i've to buy metric scrab

Would it be possible to create wood fillament with your invention?

What display panel unit are you using for the temp readout

How long is Item 20 and do you have specs for the size of cut? I would like to make that from an off the shelf pipe nipple.

5" cut 2-3/4" to 3".

I have finished my extruder (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62544http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... as i mentioned 2 months ago) but i have some problems on extruding straight filament with steady diameter. Question... can you make a video on how i guide the filament from the nozzle, and how i make it flow steady and make spirals on the ground. my filament is too straight and does not make a curve to facilitate spiral... plz help

by Cos

I don't know how to make your fialment spiral if it won't. Try having the extruder higher off the floor at 36". Try moving the extruder closer or farther from the table edge.
Trial and error.

Hi! I have been watching a friend assemble one of your filament extruders. The ID of the tube is much wider than the OD of the auger. Is this correct?

No. The auger OD should be close to the tube ID.

Any idea where to get the Kawasaki bit?

I can't find one anywhere and I need to have the hex shank to fit with the sprockets I printed.

The Kawasaki 5/8" x 18" bit has a hex shank. The adapter to the sprocket only needs to have a good set screw. If you use a hex hole in the sprocket without the adapter it will fail as I did just that. The following link on ebay is where i got my bit.


Also I believe this has been answer before in the comments.

Quick question this works on plastic, how about alternative materials like wax

Try it. Also try silicone.

I'm trying to remake this project myself and I'm wondering you determined the speed the motor should run at to extrude the plastic. Is this a trial and error process or is there some thought behind the speed?

Read the manual page page 6 and trial and error.

Is there part files for the gears somewhere or can I order them?

stl files are downloaded in version one.

I only see a .pdf and no part files to print or part numbers to order for the two gear that are driven off the chain.


I ask myself the following question:
How did you let the diameter screw 5/8'' in a pipe 1/2''?

I have been struggling with this too. I believe the diameter of the auger (drill bit), is labeled corresponding to its actual size, but pipe apparently is not. If you google something like "nominal pipe sizes", you'll find that the inner diameter of standard 1/2in pipe is larger than 1/2-inch. Apparently it is just big enough to accommodate a 5/8in bit. The parts are very difficult to find here in Argentina, so if those with experience could chime in here, I believe it will help me in correctly ordering the pieces online. Also, I would like to know what length auger to look for. Have I correctly calculated that it should be about 13" (33cm) long?

Hi, i am Rene from Germany, can you ship the items of filament extruder to Germany unassembled? I take the shipping costs. Maybe a plan for assembling.

Thank you

Excellent work, all my congratulations!

I am not a specialist and I begin in this machine type.

I have some questions on the functioning or choice of the pieces.

I am sorry if my questions are stupid or are not clear but the English is not my mother tongue and on speaks technical.

47 kapon type is to protect us from the heat or to concentrate the heat?

37 aluminums flat bar: Which is his interest? Why not to put directly the "band heater"?

Which is the interest of the block (14,35,36,38,19) with the fixings? Which is the role of every part?

Thank you for your responses!

Kapton tape is used to hold the thermocouple to the hot 1/2" iron coupling.
You don't need alum flat bars if your heat band fits the 1/2" iron coupling.
Part # 14 and 19 allow adjustment for alignment of the auger bit.
Pars # 35,36,38, keep the auger bit in place so it does not back out from the thrust pressure.

I am in the process of building this project, but I have had trouble sourcing the voltage regulator, would any one have the part or model number from the Ebay seller or any other source. Thanks

You're selling two of them?


good job

-Why the part #10 is in aluminum and not in brass that is more conducting?

-Why are the parts #28 and #30 in aluminum and not in plastic? (To do turn the mechanism of reduction in plastic)

-what serves part #38?


Sorry for the error, part #10 is brass, see picture.
I tried plastic for parts 28 and 30 and the small sprocket broke.
Part 38 is bushing I added because the auger shaft squeaked.
My version 3 will have a direct gear motor drive.

Does anyone know a suitable auger. i bought a dewalt auger but the bearings dont fit.

i really want to build one but I am wondering about the parts from emachine shop. Has anyone bought these custom parts? Also has anyone used the Black pipe kit on ebay. It is parts no 21 and 20. Any thoughts on those pre cut pipes?

Even from the eBay seller listed, I can't find a voltage regulator like the one you are using. Does anyone have link to one? All I can come up with are little transistor types. Would a potentiometer work instead?

I just bought mine from amazon for $6.00

This looks fantastic--awesome job! Do you know if this would work just as well with PLA material?

Congratulations from the Netherlands,
Great idea.
Maybe i can give you a new idea for an update, direct printing from pellets to objects........
Does someone massproduce your Extruder ? I am not the greatest builder...
You just won that title

The design calls for a "heat barrier" made out of high density polyethylene (HDPE). According to what I read here:

HDPE has a max temperature of 120ºC. In order to melt ABS plastic, the Lyman extruder will have to reach temperatures quite a bit higher than 120ºC. So, I'm guessing that the reason this works is that the heat of the flange that the heat barrier is touching doesn't reach above 120ºC even when you are extruding ABS at a higher temperature. Is that the case, or does this extruder only work for PLA that extrudes at a much lower temperature?

Either way, is there a particular reason why HDPE is a better material for the heat barrier than, for example, ABS?


Sorry for the confusion. The heat bearer I used was #9353K31 from McMaster-Carr. It is an insulation board. It is listed in the BOM of my first version extruder.

The emachineshop part shown was for pricing only & I forgot to list the the McMaster part #.

Thanks for the congrats.

Congratulations to Lyman for winning the contest!

Congrats on the prize!!

any instructions on where to buy the raw ABS pellets and what is the proces of adding the colorants?

Manual lists the size for Part 36 thrust bearing as 16-Jul.

Is this a spreadsheet error?
7/16" ?

Congrats Mr. Lyman, I have to admit though I have been wondering exactly what you did. The various articles I have seen suggest you have invented the polymer extruder. But I have been working with little lab size extruders for ~25 years and I know that basic extruder technology has been around at least since Brabender got in the business ~90 years ago.
I mean no insult, you must have done something great and original that is too technical for the general articles, I just wish I could find something online that explained what you did in more technical terms.

I mean no insult, but did you bother reading the attachments? As for what he did, he figured out how to make an extruder cheaply.

Finally here is my derivative! http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62544http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Congratulations Mr Lyman for winning the contest!
Thanks for making home filament extrusion reality!

by Cos

Would anyone like to comment on how uniform the extruded filament is? It seems fast enough to even feed a 3D printer in real time. But is the filament uniform enough?

The filament can be fairly uniform if you control the variables. The most difficult is feeding the filament after it leaves the hotend as it is soft and tend to stretch.
Feeding it direct to the printer is the next step.

Hello Hugh, A Big Congrats on winning! I'm choosing to get a 3D Printer now...:-)

Hugh... Just read aboutt your award in the CH (our home town paper). Congratulations! I mentor the robotics club at the high school (EHS) and we're in thhe processs of selecting a printer design to print robot parts. You're an inspiration to the kids in the club... Someone from their own home town!

Have you tried extruding any courser pellets? That would greatly increase the variety of plastic providers available.

I tried some courser pellets and they bound up a little between the auger and the pipe. Will test again as I now have my extruder returned to me. I believe increasing the auger to a 3/4" size may work better.

Congratulations! I admire your accomplishment!

Congrats on your win!!!!

A quick question for Mr. Lyman:

Since I imagine that you're retired now, what did you do for a living? Just curious what led you to this point :)

I owned and ran a company for 26 years, making laboratory casework and fume hoods.

Congrats on the prize! Now let's design a production unit :)

Please if anyone knows the email address of Jebba, to buy a LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II


A bit of Googling and I found out that Jebba is Jeff Moe, owner of Lulzbot. A bit more Googling found an email address of [email protected] I think it can be assumed though, that Mr Lyman's earlier post in regards to Lulzbot making them, and then a later comment about Jebba making them refers to the same person/entity.. My advice is to simply wait for Lulzbot to announce that the extruders are being sold.

It's a bit frustrating not being able to buy the machine from Mr. Lyman I personally I have no time to make one of these machines. Mr. Lyman congratulate him for this great invention

$40,000 winner! you deserve every bits thank for sharing great idea


Congratulations on winning the contest. It looks like a great machine with some great results. In your manual, there's order notes for 400 of each part of the machine, to be shipped to Inventables. I assume they'll start to sell kits for your extruder any day now?

I don't thing Inventables will be making the extruder. Check with Jebba, he is making prototypes now for sale

CONGRATULATIONS!!! I was rooting for you! Using today's news as motivation to order my parts right now. :)

Congratulations. It's nice to see words, good old words like "auger" as you describe the machine in your YouTube presentations.


I think there will be many people interested to buy this machine if anyone knows where to buy I would appreciate advance

The Lyman Filament Extruder is being made for sale by http://Lulzbot.comLulzbot.com. I don't know when it will be available

I do not make them for sale.

I am a teacher of new technologies and have a 3D printer in a school in Madrid Spain, I wonder, to buy a LYMAN FILAMENT EXTRUDER II to teach my students and to save on the purchase of filament. working with PLA


I posted some pictures of our attempt to build your filament extruder (description is in Czech): http://3dforum.cz/index.php?p=/discussion/2/lymans-filament-extruder#Item_2http://3dforum.cz/index.php?p=...

We had to exchange the heat band by resistive foil, as it was hard (=very expensive) to get it here. After few attempts to find the best way of assembling it, we were able to get it heat up up to 220°C.

One more thing we need to handle before our first attempt to extrude, wish us luck!

And we say big THANK YOU to Mr. Lyman for his project!

What is the thing used between aluminum flat bars and the band heater? I cannot seem to find it in your drawings or bom.

Nothing. No part #. Part #47 is kaplon tape to hold the thermistor,

Part #38 brass bushing is listed as having been custom created at http://emachineshop.comemachineshop.com and description says 10mm. Can I get the full dimensions for this part because I am not quite clear on what to order. Also, Hugh, I hope you win!! Good luck!!

Naturally I hope I win also and thanks. I think I made the bushing as I did with many of custom parts. emachineshop parts were only greated to get pricing for custom parts.

Fit you bushing to your auger.

I noticed on page 19 that I called out an ALUMINUM nozzle, however I made mine out of brass.

Good luck.

i have been searching but couldn't find. is there a metric bom?

Multiply inches by 25.4 and you get metric dimensions.

No I think he meant that is there any version with only parts that are produced in metric system such as M6 screws or like instead of 1/2 inch pipe, a pipe with a diameter of 13 mm. It is impossible to find parts in Europe with directly converted inch sizes such as 12.7 mm (1/2 inch).

Sorry I can;t help. I made the extruder in inch dimensions with a lot of parts I had on hand. I only used a few metric cap screws as I had them on hand from building 3 3D printers.

I would suggest finding a metric auger and sizing the pipe to it, or make a pipe out of brass or aluminum.

I found out the hard way that not all 1/2" black pipe has the same ID dimension when I bought two different length nipples from Fastenal.

Good luck

You don't get the parts from http://emachineshop.comemachineshop.com, you make them or you get a local machine shop to make them for you.

emachineshop was used to get pricing for 400 units in my second submission to DFC.

Errors do happen, you figure it out.

Your posting is shown 4 times, maybe you should delete 3 of them.

Thanks for the info -- posts weren't showing up at first, so I mistakenly kept trying to submit it. Deleted the 3x others.

Great design! How much distance is there between the auger bit and the extruder plug? I'm working with a bit that has a shorter shank than your Kawasaki bit and so I don't have a good reference point for figuring this out. My intuition is that the auger bit should terminate just before the coupler. Thx for your help!

The end of the auger bit is at the beginning to the 1/2" pipe coupler.

Edit: This site really should have an edit time period for posts. Oh well.

Original: Thank you so much for the reply. That had been my guess. It didn't make
any sense to have the auger BIT inside the coupler. I've made some
modifications to your design and I will show you what I have done in a
few days. Thanks for the inspiration!

Thank you so much for the reply. That had been my guess. It didn't make any sense to have the auger but inside the coupler. I've made some modifications to your design and I will show you what I have done in a few days. Thanks for the inspiration!

My derivtive is almost there!.. one last thing.. what is the chain characteristics? width, step, etc? plz dont tell me 'just a bicycle chain!'

But it is a bicycle roller chain. I ordered it online from WatMart for $8.00.


Model # 301125, 1/2" 112 links, 1/8" deep.

So, did you win the contest?

I have not yet been notified.

it was announced A few days ago that he had won.
Congratulations Hugh!

It is well deserved

Great work. Hope you're the one they're reviewing right now for color.

What is the rpm for your motor? And how did you find the right speed?

The rpm is variable with the
voltage regulator. At 3 volts it is around 3 rpm.
The right speed is accomplished by

no wonder 50 rpm feels too fast

I have a question regarding the placement of the thermocouple sensor. Where on the hot end do you place it, to get the most correct temperature? - and not just the temperature from the heat-band, thus creating a bad reading by the PID controller.

See part 44 on Page 11 in the manual. The thermocouple is placed net to heat band on the 12" coupling so it isn;t in the way of a pipe wrench when changing the nozzle.

I cannot understand the purpose of parts #35, #36, #38 do i really need them? can i substitute them with simpler parts? it is difficult to find them in my whereabouts. I also have found teflon as heat insulator.. will it work? thnx

You will defenitly need parts # 35,36 & 38.  You certainly can substite them with any make that will fit the auger bit.

I am puzzled about nozzle hole for extruded plastic of 3mm nominal diameter. My drill bit is measured 3mm, and i am not sure if a hole drilled by this bit will lead to a filament of 3mm within normal tolerances. I mean, will i need a drill bit with different diameter for 3mm filament? if yes what size?

The hole size should be smaller than 3mm.  Start out with an small bit around 2mm, extrud, measure then ream with a larger bit till you get the right diameter. Most commercial 3mm filament I have purchased is about 2.85mm. As the hole size I use for 1.75mm is about a #53 bit which is .059" diameter.

Just as a heads up to everyone, I made a similar/derived version of this. Kits are available here: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/557/filament-extruder-convert-pellets-to-filament/http://www.soliforum.com/topic...

Hi anybody know where i can buy the 12V wiper motor, mosterguts is out of stock. Thanks

I did a complete breakdown when I designed and made this version.
I found no problem with the insulator so I still used the same.
The thrust bearing has two washers on each side, The right one bears against the brass bushing in bearing plate. My thrust bearing now has over 50 hours with no problem.

Interesting. I'm not sure why in your case the plastic pellets aren't abrading the insulator and turning it into powder.

Update - replaced the thrust bearing with a new one, same model, and lubricated it. All seems well. I also removed the insulating block, works fine without it.

Have you done a full teardown of one of your extruders yet?

If so, what is the condition of the inside of the white insulator, and the thrust bearing?

I am finding that the thrust bearing is only good for about 24 hours of use, and that the white insulator is flaking into the pellets, contaminating the filament.


 I can say on the one I made, I added a collar to prevent that.  I didn't do it at first until after I started making some additional mods.

 I am doing and putting the pieces together to build and am enjoying the progress of the extruder, congratulations.

 what are your extruding temps?
i can see from the pic that you extrude ABS at 212 C. right?


Thanks a lot for the upgrade !

 Can you tell us how much Watt per hour  the filament extruder needs at full speed ?
As there seem to be quite few electric expences it would be interresting to know how much le filament will really cost.

 According to BOM, band heater's consumption is 250W. Plus 24W(2Ax12V) motor consumption at full power.
Altogether: 250+24=274 W/h.

The average cost per KWH in the US is $0.135.
Extruding at 40 ft/hr = 276/1000x.135/40 = $0.00092475 per foot. I think.

I just don't get how they could reject your old design.  They expect all parts to be off the shelf?


Looks like it will work, however I bought mine for $24 shipping
included, and then I used a thermocouple I got for $1.00.  But the last
thermocouple I got cost $1.78.

Found another error in the BOM.  Part #27, 5x15mm Set Screw should be 5x20mm. Sorry.

I goofed with the Manual and forgot 4 pages. It has been revised and re-uploaded to include the photo's. 
I just finished extruding enough 3mm filament to last me after I send the machine to DFC.
It took 16 hours to extrude 1 Kg of 1.75mm filament, but it only took 6 hours to extrude 3 lbs of 3mm filament which I use.
Winding 3mm filament on my spool winder is harder than winding 1.75mm filament because of the twisting as the filament before it winds up. So this is a work in progress.

You do rock. Great machine!

i need one!
great job!

looking good Hugh!!
Just need to make my hopper then i'm finished, will post pictures soon.

Will your extruder work with shreded/recycled plastic or only pellets?

I don't know not having tried any.  I bought 15 lbs of pellets for $35 including shipping, and as that is $2.34 / lb I am not sure I want to got the grinder route.

Nice Hugh! We're still hacking away at our version 1. It is close, but hasn't been run yet. We'll take a look at your new changes. Thanks!

Well played sir, well played.