Nismo GT-R LM 2018 Steering Wheel

Introduction:

This wheel is an unlicensed version of the new Nissan Nismo GT-R LM 2018 steering wheel.
Credit to the following people, I am thankful to you for the information you have all supplied to help me get to this level.

Wotever - Simhub. Without this software, this project wouldn't have gotten so far. Je vous remercie pour votre travail acharné.

Amstudio – your videos are the best. Great info on simhub setup wiring etc. You set a high standard!

Fox85 – Your MP4-12C GT3 wheel set the bar for 3d printed wheels! Thank you

Barry Rowland SimRacingGarage – Your reviews help define what level of detail goes into my efforts

As always .step files included for re-designing as you may see fit.

Part list is included with links for purchase.

You can find my Shifter in my other models.

Prusa

i3 MK3

0.1 - 0.2

Printer used – Prusa I3 MK3
Slicer – Slic3r Prusa edition 1.41.3
Filament – Amazon Pro PLA 1.75mm Black ( 2 x 1kg will be enough)
Temps – Extruder 230C, Bed 70C
Infill pattern – Rectilinear

Make the following setting adjustment for each part…

Rear Plate:
Layer – 0.2mm
Infill – 45%
Perimeter – 2
Support – Build plate only, plus the following adjustments…

• Overhang threshold – 10
• Contact Z distance – 0.14
• Interface pattern spacing – 0.0
• All other settings as normal

Front plate:
Layer - 0.15mm
Infill – 15%; Pattern – rectilinear
Perimeter – 2
No support

Handles: Best printed backside on the bed
Layer – 0.15mm
Infill – 45%
Perimeter – 3
Support – Build plate only, plus the following adjustments…

• Overhang threshold – 10
• Contact Z distance – 0.14
• Interface pattern spacing – 0.0
• All other settings as normal

Button guards:
Layer – 0.1mm
Infill – 20%
Perimeter – 2
No supports

PCB Mount:
Layer – 0.2mm
Infill – 20%
Perimeter – 3
No supports

Rotary Dials:
Layer – 0.1mm
Infill – 30%
Perimeter – 2
No supports

Button caps:
Layer – 0.1mm
Infill – 100%
Perimeter – 2
No supports

This was always the hardest part for me. Explaining it... even harder.

Take your time, especially with the usb wires. Getting these connected wrong can lead to all sorts of problems, burnt boards, things not working correctly, etc. Pay more attention than I did I and your build will go faster.

Certain things like the Nextion to USB-TTL board has an anomaly. The RX and TX MUST be connected to the OPPOSITE ie.
(Nextion lowercase, TTL uppercase) rx ==> TX and tx ==> RX .

Be sure to take note of the IN vs OUT wiring for the LEDS. Basic daisy chain.

The USB-TTL is easier to deal with if you remove the headers (connectors) and solder directly to the board as I have done in the pictures. Again, pay good attention to the usb wiring.

The Yoctopus Micro-USB-HubV2 is the magic that connects it all together. Purchase the cables from them as they also supply the connectors with the cable. Very difficult to solder the wires directly. I gave up and purchased the connectors. Still hard, but less impossible.

Leo Bodnar BU0836A. (x1) $28.94
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=219

Leo Bodnar BU036A Matrix Board. (x1) $14.46
http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=274

Yoctopuce Micro-USB-HUB-V2. (x1) $28.92
https://www.yoctopuce.com/EN/products/extensions-and-networking/micro-usb-hub-v2

Yoctopuce Cable with connector (x4) $2.50ea (Expensive but they come with the connectors you will need)
https://www.yoctopuce.com/EN/products/accessories-and-connectors/1-27-1-27-11

LEDx8 (x1) $7.73
https://www.amazon.com/Hobbies-Multi-Rotor-Parts-Built/dp/B07H7G2DPV/ref=sr_1_79?keywords=ws2812b+8&qid=1551998385&s=gateway&sr=8-79

LEDx1 (x2) $2.00ea
http://www.helipal.com/micro-rgb-led-ws2812b.html

Arduino Pro Micro (x1) (these are everywhere)

Nextion 4.3in NX4827T043_011. (x1) $59.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015DMOVJA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

eLabGuy USB-BF-BO-V1AV. (x1) $6.68
https://elabbay.myshopify.com/products/copy-of-usb-af-bo-v1av-usb-2-0-type-a-female-connector-breakout-board-vertical-elabguy

USB to TTL (x1). $7.99 (Don’t go for the cheaper ones. Not worth it)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K3Z3TL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Micro type B Male (x1 pkt). $5.66
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GMP4E4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rotary Encoder (x3). $1.96ea (These work very well, 12 detents, 6mm shaft)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/PEC11R-4315F-S0012/PEC11R-4315F-S0012-ND/4699232

Momentary Push Button Switch (x2 pkt of 8). $9.39 (Cheap. Will likely break but I like the tactile feel. You have the .step file so you can make your choice fit!)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VCD6F7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bolts and Nuts:
I have purchased sets as I know I will use various sizing on other projects.
I have other projects on the way and would suggest the same sets to you.

M3 Hex Cap Head:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQ5761L/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M2-4 Hex Cap Head:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT836J4/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M5 Hex Button Head:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J9865L6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M5 Countersunk Long:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HP1JR3V/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M3-5 Countersunk Blk:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07226FRL2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M3-8 Set Screws:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K6SDD0Y/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M3 x 5mm Stand-off
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Threaded-Standoff-Pillar/dp/B015A3LL86/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1VXSJNQXYX655&keywords=5mm+standoff&qid=1551715771&s=gateway&sprefix=5mm+sta%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-4