The Wanhao D7 has a lot of promise, but is let down badly by the pretty useless UV LED array - Due to the size, there is a pretty intense hotspot in the centre, while exposure drops off towards the edges of the build plate. This makes it impossible to get consistent results across the entire build plate.
Phrozen released the ParaLED upgrade, which is a full size replacement for the UV source. As it is a generic upgrade, I have produced a shroud which allows you to remove the fan from the ParaLED heatsink and mount it on the mounting already present on the base of the D7. This has an added advantage of giving a more even airflow over the heatsink and eliminating the dead spot caused by the fan hub.
I have also removed the Wanhao board and replaced it with a Raspberry Pi running nanDLP and a nanoDLP shield.
Finally, I have replaced the stepper motor, coupler and leadscrew with an integrated motor/leadscrew. This eliminates the inaccuracies caused by the coupler expanding and contracting.
For full writeups, see my blog pages here:
THESE WILL ALWAYS BE THE MOST UP TO DATE. IT IS RECOMMENDED YOU FOLLOW THE STEPS ON THE BLOG RATHER THAN THE ONES ON THINGIVERSE!
Support IS required for all parts.
Strip the D7. This is a ground-up rebuild
Print the parts. On the Base Extension, tap all 2.5mm diameter holes to M3. Leave the 3.5mm holes
Drill the original Wanhao steel base plate according to the drilling guide PDF
Mount a 60mm fan on the base plate. Do not use any of the fans that came with the ParaLED, they are 24V and will not move air.
Remove the fan from the ParaLED heatsink. Mount the heatsink to the shroud using the screws that originally attached the fan to the heatsink
Mount the shroud/ParaLED assembly on the base plate using 6 M3x10mm screws. Make sure the fan wires exit through the cutout on the base of the shroud.
Mount the base extension on to the base plate. Use 4 M3x10mm screws. Note that two of the screws which through from the top, where the power socket plate used to mount. Screw on the rear feet through the base plate into the base extension using M3x14mm screws - You must drill out the rear feet mounting holes with a 3.5mm drill prior to assembly.
Mount the various bits and pieces (Excluding the HDMI/MIPI board) on the base extension. Use M3x18mm for the Raspberry Pi and shield (use the shield standoffs between the two), M3x6mm to mount the LED power unit and solid state relay and 1 M3x14mm and one M3x10mm to mount the PSU. Make sure you run an earth wire from the PSU earth screw to the 4mm hole you drilled and tapped on the base plate
Remove the USB and HDMI sockets from the rear bracket. Cut off the excess where the sockets used to be, so that the bracket only holds the power socket, and is 66mm wide. Mark and drill a mounting hole that will line up with the hole in the base extension. Mount the bracket on the base extension
Temporarily mount the top plate. Stick MIPI/LCD adaptor board to the side of the ParaLED with double sided tape, ensuring that the MIPI cable socket faces the rear of the machine and that the LED ribbon cable is not under any strain. Stick the MIPI/HDMI board to the base extension using double sided tape, ensuring that there is no strain on the MIPI ribbon cable. When all is correct, unplug the LCD screen and remove the top plate
Cable everything up. I used 10cm HDMI cables sourced from AliExpress and a Mini USB cable also sourced from AliExpress that I cut and crimped a plug onto which mates with the 5V out socket on the shield
Attach the Nextion and the 60mm fan to the front cover and install the front cover.
Install the fully assembled top cover (including motor, sensor, etc.)
Attach the 60mm fan to the rear cover and install
- The intention is to run positive pressure in the case. All three fans should be blowing IN.
- The maximum width fan that can fit in the rear cover is a 6010. you can use 6020s for the shroud and front cover fans
- The motor driver on the shield must be set up according to instructions on my blog: https://collingwood.me.uk/blog/index.php/raspberry-pi-and-the-nanodlp-shield-v1-1/
- The machine profile from this thing must be loaded
- For resin profiles... Currently, you're on your own. I'll post any working ones I develop on this thing at a later stage, feel free to add working ones you develop in the comments