This is a buffed/reinforced, braced Einsy door mod to brace the Z axis to the Y axis. Just use your stock Einsy base with this. This prevents the Z axis from wiggling and should improve your prints. I tried to keep this as simple as possible and instructions are below. It takes only a few hours to print. It works just as I intended and it really stiffens the wobble a lot! It is my favorite mod I have done because I consider it a requirement because it affects print quality, and not a just a nice to have.
The door is modified to be stronger and thicker around the perimeter, the hinges are removed and it now attaches directly to the Z and Y frames, with the help of a small frame insert. You don't need to disconnect any cables from your Einsy case!
You will need:
- two m3 12mm screws (m3 10mm will work ok)
- two m3 hex nuts
Also check out my side mounted MK3 LCD mod
Now you can mount a Logitech or any camera with a screw mount securely to the front frame, as well as place you Pi there for Octolapse:
My cable clip keeps your LCD cables tidy:
My feet mod for reducing all vibration and noise by 95%, possible improving prints:
Fusion 360 File included for remixing.
232/247 temp, no speed above 45, DoorBracket .2 layer height, FrameSlider .15 layer height
Before starting use the long press on the dial to raise the Z axis up and out of the way.
Prepare the FrameSlider part:
- Sand the FrameSlider part to ensure it will go in smoothly and can later be slide in the frame slot.
- Insert two m3 hex nuts and push them into the part firmly.
Remove the stock Einsy Base and stock Einsy Door:
- Slightly loosen the two m3 hidden screwsthat secure the Einsy Base to the frame so the it can be easily slide off.
- Fully remove the long m3 bolt that attaches the base to the door.
- Slide off the Einsy base but keep the m3 frame bolts attached. Keep all the wires attached.
- Fully remove the Einsy door and hinges. You won't need the hinges anymore.
- Screw in the two door m3 10 screws from the Einsy door hinges back into the frame.
- Remove the single small square lock hex nut in the stock Einsy door door and place it aside for now.
Remove the Rear Frame:
- Remove the eight large screws on the rear 3030 metal frame: first loosen all the bolts very slightly, then once are all loose, fully remove them.
- Gently lift it up the rear frame so you have enough room, and slide in the Frameslider part into the frame.
- Don't re-attach the frame screws just yet.
Attach the new Door Brace:
- Attach the DoorBracket to the Z axis frame first and screw in the two m3 10mm screws into the frame.
- Then screw the bottom of the DoorBrace into the FrameSlider. You need two m3 12mm screws to attach it to the nut3030hex. I think m3 0mm might also work.
- Insert the small square hex nut into the DoorBracket slot for the long bolt to connect to later.
Re-Attach the Rear Frame:
- Put the rear frame back on and lightly screw in all 8 large screws.
- Once they are all in tighten them.
Re-attach the Einsy Base:
- Place all the wires neatly in to the Einsy base.
- Guide the X motor wire into the slot on the side of the base.
- Guide the base onto the bottom m3 10mm frame bolt, and gently shift it onto the top m3 frame bolt, while keeping all the wires inside.
- Screw the long bolt back into the Einsy base and tighten it. Make sure it pulls the hex nut we placed earlier into the door.
- Tighten the two frame bolts.