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Plaidbear

Buffed n Braced Einsy Door - Use with stock MK3s Einsy Base

by Plaidbear Mar 8, 2019
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Responding to the comment on why I made this. In general, my design is more conservative and addresses only the most critical bracing issue feature only, and keeps the cable length/strain/orientation/position the way Prusa designed them, and avoids X cable strain.

The main feature/strength of his design is the frame brace idea, which is what I used. The frame brace actually helps prints. The flipped door and extras space are nice added conveniences, and should be good features if they worked as intended.

I wanted to keep the bracing and keep it simple. As a second consideration, my part takes less less time to print.

I did print his part, test it, and post a make. It is a great idea and I wish Prusa offered a flipped board so it would work well. However I cannot recommend it currently. The current board position forces the cables to reach further across to the board connections. This shortens the live play length of the cables, and would add cable strain, especially in the X axis cable. Therefore I used his main bracing idea and just made something that made that work with the current Einsy case, which allows the best cable position and strain relief.

He did add space which is nice, however, it would be better to add space in the current board orientation. Someone suggested that in his comments and asked why he didn't keep the original orientation.

The flipped door idea is nice but such a minor thing that I never use it. Flipping the door is also means the board is flipped, which is the cause of the strain too since it reorients the board connections. This small benefit is not worth it.

My design uses his brace idea of a brace to both frame axis, and similar measurements, and thus I posted it a remix.However, I did not remix his file, but instead altered the original Prusa door step file.

I have no experience with an MMU so can't comment on the MMU part.

I hope this explanation helps you pick whether to use his design or mine.

So, just curious, I took a look at your makes and from your pictures of the make, you printed and installed the Embiggened, braced, reversed, Prusa Mk3 Einsy enclosure on March 7th. Then you posted your remix on March 8th. What was it about the Embiggened case that you didn't like that drove you to design your own brace, not to mention to take the extra effort to un-install the Embiggened version and go back to stock MK3 einsy base + your brace?

I'm at a crossroads trying to decide whether to print your simple brace, or go Embiggened :)

Please see my response above as to why I made this.

Clever approach to z-bracing! I was going to do M8 rod bracing like on my MK2, but I'll give this a shot!

Will this fit the Raspberry Pi? And I reckon that without hinges, it will be slightly more difficult to gain access to the Einsy board - but really its just a couple screws and how often do you use those hinges anyway?

BTW you should be able to use drop-in T-nuts if you don't want to disassemble the rear frame. Could you post a model with M4 and M5 holes rather in addition to m3 holes? This will give folks that already have t-nuts an option to use them.

I used the original R1 door downloaded from Prusa and modded it to create this part so it has the same placement as the door. As such the base unit (the one with the board) is in exactly the same spot, so ti wouldn't affect Pi Zero mod that connects to the outside of it, and Pi that mounts to the outside or top of the base unit. Underneath is a different story. This brace takes up 5.2 mm of space underneath next to the frame, so it would interfere with anything within that range of the frame underneath.

Drop in nuts pivot around and are more trouble than unscrewing the eight frame screws. It is highly recommended to use either the included single barnut for M3 12mm or use a pair of any M3 drop in nut or alternate slide in M3 nut such as this one I made here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485055.

T Nut for 3030 frame - Prusa MK3

Plaidbear, you're right - thank you for the additional info. I printed both parts in PETG and it is working great! the PETG slide-in T-nuts work way better than I expected. I think Prusa should make it this way by default.

I will post a photo of my build shortly.

here from Reddit! thanks a lot, I'll be adding it to the list
can it be printed in PLA or should it be in PETG?

thanks, Jimmy (NZ)

It probably should be in PETG since the rest of the parts are in PETG and in this form, unlike the stock door which was already in PETG, is also now a new structural part for the printer.